I just tried out several sanders at Woodcraft and I came home with the ETS 150/3. They explained many things about the various sanders but did not give me a choice between these two. I wanted a finishing sander so that is what I got, but I would still like to use a broader range of grits with it. The catalog states that the 150/3 has a 1/8" stroke and the 150/5 has a 3/16" stroke. How much difference does this make and if I want to do more aggressive sanding should I exchange it for the 150/5. Thanks.
Is there much difference between the ETS 150/3 EQ and ETS 150/5 EQ sanders
- Thread starter waltwood
- Start date
estesbubba
Member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2012
- Messages
- 16
I own the 150/5 and absolutely love it. If the 150/3 leaves a better finish I don't think my eyes could tell. When I was looking, Bob Marino said if you think a Rotex is in your future, get the 150/3, otherwise get the 150/5. I keep my extractor at about 25% for a better quality finish. If you turn it up too high it will suck the sandpaper too tight to the board.
The 150/3 is capable of fairly aggressive sanding with lower grits. I do not have the 150/5 but I do have a 150 Rotex to complement my 150/3. That said, I often just slap a coarser grit on the 150/3, especially if I already have it hooked up. If your PRIMARY concern is having a finish sander then you have the right one.
Now you have two opinions that differ. ;D [popcorn]
Now you have two opinions that differ. ;D [popcorn]
JayStPeter
Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2007
- Messages
- 399
The guy I bought my 150/5 from sold it to get a /3. He did have a RO150.
I don't see why I would want a /3 even if I had a RO150. Just move it faster and get done quicker.
Two differing opinions in one post [eek]
I don't see why I would want a /3 even if I had a RO150. Just move it faster and get done quicker.
Two differing opinions in one post [eek]
Sorry, but I am unclear about the responses. The /5 is suppose to be a more aggressive sander but I wanted to know if there was that much of a difference in 1/16" stroke. I own many sanders but this is my only Festool sander and I plan to use it on a broad range of sanding because of the great dust collection. I do not see a RO 150 in my future.
waltwood said:
Yes there is a difference. How much is subjective to describe. If you are not going to get an RO150 then I would recommend the /5, and get the hard pad for it as well. You will get a very good finish and it will still handle (easily) a broad range of grits. I used only that sander for years with grits from 40 to 400.
Seth
I started with a 150/5 many years ago. Then bought a Rotex 150. Then I bought a 150/3. The 150/3 is vastly superior for finishes. I have just been using it some post-catalyzed ML Campbell white stealth lacquer. Unbelievable.
If you need to get more aggressive with the 150/3, use a courser paper.
I believe 3mm refers to the diameter of the stroke, so the circumference of the "swirl" is much less than the 5 mm. I am note sure if the sanding pattern is a perfect circle. I would assume it is. The circumference is 3.14 times the diameter, so the resulting circle is much larger on the 150/5. If aggressive sanding is your goal, start with a Rotex.
If you need to get more aggressive with the 150/3, use a courser paper.
I believe 3mm refers to the diameter of the stroke, so the circumference of the "swirl" is much less than the 5 mm. I am note sure if the sanding pattern is a perfect circle. I would assume it is. The circumference is 3.14 times the diameter, so the resulting circle is much larger on the 150/5. If aggressive sanding is your goal, start with a Rotex.
waltwood said:
It is clear you haven't drank the green kool-aid yet. [big grin]
RD makes a good point about sanding finishes. If you plan on doing that with your sander I think it would be the tipping point for keeping the 3 and not going with the 5. You have the 3 now so throw a coarse grit on it and see what you think. Only you can decide what aggressive means in your circumstance.
Quote from: RDMuller on October 07, 2013, 09:03 PM
I have just been using it some post-catalyzed ML Campbell white stealth lacquer. Unbelievable.
Interesting, how do you like find the MLC Stealth to work with? I am assuming you sprayed it on.
What grade of paper are you sanding with?
What did you prime with?
Tim
Hi Tim
The project I am working on are 4 rather large chests of drawers for 1 and 3 year old granddaughters. They are a 3/4 inch material with 1/2 inch veneer core centers with no voids that are clasped by 1/8 inch MDF on each side. Lighter than MDF and the ply with no voids takes screws well. Takes paint wonderfully and also veneers well.
I sanded with 180 rubin on a Rotex 150 in random orbit mode and then with Granat 220 on an EQ 150/3. I used ML Campbell Clawlock white as the primer on the MDF surface. As I understand from others, the Stealth needs something to hang on to and the Clawlock fits the bill. The Clawlock costs more per gallon than the Stealth. I sanded the first coat of primer with granat 220 on the 150/3 and then put on a second coat of primer. I sanded this by hand with a piece of 220 (very light touch) and put on the first coat of Stealth. I showed it to someone yesterday who said it already looks and feels like a factory finish.
I will put on a second coat of white Stealth and may quit there or put a clear protectant on as a final coat. I need to discuss that with my ML Campbell rep.
Incidentally, this is my 2nd project following this schedule. The first one is in my daughter's home (a 6-piece baby changing table and accessory cabinets. The finish looks as good as new.
It's nice to have things come together once in awhile ---- the plywood/mdf (columbia forest products I believe), Festool sanders (particularly the 150/3), Festool abrasives, the ML Campbell products and lastly my CAT Jaguar SLP which is a $400 conversion HVLP gun that runs off the air compressor. And lastly, good weather as I am doing it outside.
I have just been using it some post-catalyzed ML Campbell white stealth lacquer. Unbelievable.
Interesting, how do you like find the MLC Stealth to work with? I am assuming you sprayed it on.
What grade of paper are you sanding with?
What did you prime with?
Tim
Hi Tim
The project I am working on are 4 rather large chests of drawers for 1 and 3 year old granddaughters. They are a 3/4 inch material with 1/2 inch veneer core centers with no voids that are clasped by 1/8 inch MDF on each side. Lighter than MDF and the ply with no voids takes screws well. Takes paint wonderfully and also veneers well.
I sanded with 180 rubin on a Rotex 150 in random orbit mode and then with Granat 220 on an EQ 150/3. I used ML Campbell Clawlock white as the primer on the MDF surface. As I understand from others, the Stealth needs something to hang on to and the Clawlock fits the bill. The Clawlock costs more per gallon than the Stealth. I sanded the first coat of primer with granat 220 on the 150/3 and then put on a second coat of primer. I sanded this by hand with a piece of 220 (very light touch) and put on the first coat of Stealth. I showed it to someone yesterday who said it already looks and feels like a factory finish.
I will put on a second coat of white Stealth and may quit there or put a clear protectant on as a final coat. I need to discuss that with my ML Campbell rep.
Incidentally, this is my 2nd project following this schedule. The first one is in my daughter's home (a 6-piece baby changing table and accessory cabinets. The finish looks as good as new.
It's nice to have things come together once in awhile ---- the plywood/mdf (columbia forest products I believe), Festool sanders (particularly the 150/3), Festool abrasives, the ML Campbell products and lastly my CAT Jaguar SLP which is a $400 conversion HVLP gun that runs off the air compressor. And lastly, good weather as I am doing it outside.
Crox G
Member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2012
- Messages
- 93
Walt,
I started with the ETS 150/3, because I wanted the lowest vibration available. I was sick of tingling hands. I found it to be a bit slow at first, until I decided to drop down and begin a grit lower than I guessed. That makes it work quickly enough for and amateur like me. A pro like you may need faster action, so the /5 might make enough difference to make it worth your while. The finish left by the /3 is outstanding, as you've probably found out. I don't know how a /3's finish compares to a /5's. Go to Woodcraft at Virginia Beach and ask Festool Mike to test drive the /5. Take some samples of wood with you to play with.
Stripping old paint with the /3 is more of an ordeal than sanding bare wood, though coarse grits, good choice of abrasive, and patience will get the job done. I added a RO90 to my arsenal, and it's a good companion to the /3 for the rougher stuff. It's ideal for frame-and-panel stuff, which I expect you do a lot of.
I shied away from the RO 150 because I didn't know how to handle it. Since then I've tried several demos, and now I see what all the fuss is about. Don't say never. It's a strong but gentle beast.
Cheers,
Crox
I started with the ETS 150/3, because I wanted the lowest vibration available. I was sick of tingling hands. I found it to be a bit slow at first, until I decided to drop down and begin a grit lower than I guessed. That makes it work quickly enough for and amateur like me. A pro like you may need faster action, so the /5 might make enough difference to make it worth your while. The finish left by the /3 is outstanding, as you've probably found out. I don't know how a /3's finish compares to a /5's. Go to Woodcraft at Virginia Beach and ask Festool Mike to test drive the /5. Take some samples of wood with you to play with.
Stripping old paint with the /3 is more of an ordeal than sanding bare wood, though coarse grits, good choice of abrasive, and patience will get the job done. I added a RO90 to my arsenal, and it's a good companion to the /3 for the rougher stuff. It's ideal for frame-and-panel stuff, which I expect you do a lot of.
I shied away from the RO 150 because I didn't know how to handle it. Since then I've tried several demos, and now I see what all the fuss is about. Don't say never. It's a strong but gentle beast.
Cheers,
Crox
ccarrolladams
Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,451
In 2006 my first Festool sander was an RO150. Of course I had several finish sanders of other brands.
Generally I believe woodworkers need to learn to use powerful sanders such as the RO150. However, I build custom cabinets. Virtually all the plywood I use is pre-finished, so I do no sanding of cabinet interiors. Hardly ever does the other side of pre-finished plywood show. When the side of a cabinet is shown in my work that is a separate piece, with the good side out.
So most of the sanding I do involves edging, door and drawer fronts. When door panels are large enough I prefer the ETS150/3 since I am only doing fine finish sanding. We set the knives on our jointers and thickness planers so that we do not need coarse sanding to remove tool marks. For the narrow parts I prefer the RO90DX sander.
Generally I believe woodworkers need to learn to use powerful sanders such as the RO150. However, I build custom cabinets. Virtually all the plywood I use is pre-finished, so I do no sanding of cabinet interiors. Hardly ever does the other side of pre-finished plywood show. When the side of a cabinet is shown in my work that is a separate piece, with the good side out.
So most of the sanding I do involves edging, door and drawer fronts. When door panels are large enough I prefer the ETS150/3 since I am only doing fine finish sanding. We set the knives on our jointers and thickness planers so that we do not need coarse sanding to remove tool marks. For the narrow parts I prefer the RO90DX sander.
leakyroof
Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Messages
- 2,529
+1 on Seth's comments if you're looking for just one 150mm/6" sander. You can't really go wrong with either the 150/3 versus the 150/5, it's just a question of what your current needs are now, and does that new sander meet them the way you hoped.
The slightly more aggressive 150/5 will handle stripping and rougher sanding perhaps faster for most people than the smaller orbit 150/3, but neither is a Rotex. The resale value on these sanders stays high even after a few years, so if you feel the need to change things around, you can trade up or around as you see fit.
I didn't buy a 6" Rotex model for many years, so I wanted the more -all-around capacity that I feel the 150/5 offers me.
I've used mine for 9 years now, it works very well and is low in vibration.
For many people, the next sander after settling on a 6" model would be the DTS400 or a RO90 since you can get into tight spaces with either sander, and in the case of the RO90, you get multiple modes and different pad sizes along with good dust collection. We're bad here on the FOG about only encouraging 1 sander in a shop sanding arsenal..... [wink]
The slightly more aggressive 150/5 will handle stripping and rougher sanding perhaps faster for most people than the smaller orbit 150/3, but neither is a Rotex. The resale value on these sanders stays high even after a few years, so if you feel the need to change things around, you can trade up or around as you see fit.
I didn't buy a 6" Rotex model for many years, so I wanted the more -all-around capacity that I feel the 150/5 offers me.
I've used mine for 9 years now, it works very well and is low in vibration.
For many people, the next sander after settling on a 6" model would be the DTS400 or a RO90 since you can get into tight spaces with either sander, and in the case of the RO90, you get multiple modes and different pad sizes along with good dust collection. We're bad here on the FOG about only encouraging 1 sander in a shop sanding arsenal..... [wink]
I never did try the /3 and the /5 side by side but I did exchange mine for a /5. They are both great sanders! I don't like the feel of the Rotex so that is why I said I would not be owning one. I currently own 5 Festools so I am obviously hooked. Hey Crox!
Sparktrician
Member
Don't dismiss the Rotex sanders on the basis of initial feel. Much depends on how one holds them as I've discovered. If one grasps them by the barrel, they will not perform as well as if one grasps them by the Plug-It connector and DE connection. Sounds strange to someone not that familiar with the Rotex sanders, but it works magnificently. Look at them much the way one looks at large single-brush floor polishers. You know, the type that if held wrong will send the operator on an unbidden trip across the room. Balancing the tool (either Rotex or floor polisher) is critical to a good, effortless finish. The Rotex sanders behave similarly. Hold them right and let the tool do the work, and they'll do wonders for you. Also remember to cut the vacuum on the DE down to ~25-33% to keep the suction from trying to embed the grit into the workpiece. Light pressure on the tool's head combined with proper grip on the Plug-It connector will go a long way for you.
Holzhacker
Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2009
- Messages
- 1,192
On a related note ...
As a policy I don't lend out tools, especially Festools. However, there are a couple guys I do lend stuff to.
So my buddy, who I've been inching into the green, calls and wants to borrow a sander for a job; stairs, edging, that sort of thing. He want's to borrow a sander or two to figure out which one he should buy.
Knowing his work I tell him to get an RO 150. However I lend him my RO90 and 150/3 since I think that's a good combo for him to use out of the 4 festool sanders I have. I don't have an RO150 since its not something I need.
Talked with him yesterday. He was going to get the RO150 but loves the combo I lent him. He's going to the dealer this week to pick his up. Good time for him to replenish my paper supply as well.
You're welcome Festool.
As a policy I don't lend out tools, especially Festools. However, there are a couple guys I do lend stuff to.
So my buddy, who I've been inching into the green, calls and wants to borrow a sander for a job; stairs, edging, that sort of thing. He want's to borrow a sander or two to figure out which one he should buy.
Knowing his work I tell him to get an RO 150. However I lend him my RO90 and 150/3 since I think that's a good combo for him to use out of the 4 festool sanders I have. I don't have an RO150 since its not something I need.
Talked with him yesterday. He was going to get the RO150 but loves the combo I lent him. He's going to the dealer this week to pick his up. Good time for him to replenish my paper supply as well.
You're welcome Festool.
