Joining kitchen worktops with Domino's

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Aug 29, 2008
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Well, I suppose the subject has it !!

Whilst it's normal to use clamping bolts under the worksurface, has anyone used domino's to join worksurfaces and perhaps a sash clamp ?
 
hi paul, i have a friend who runs his own kitchen company. in the past he used the bolts, for the last 2 years, he has been using the domino. he reckons it saves him a lot of time.
i just had mine delivered yesterday, for a kitchen build next week. have'nt had time to play with it yet!

regards, justin.
 
Ah... that's interesting...

I'm going to be using minerelle  (www.minerelle.com) and had a chat with a guy who only does kitchen fitting & work surfaces.

Now... he says that when you do a join they recommend you actually use small (
 
I've done several butcher block tops that I've mitered the inside corners with dominoes.  IMHO they work great.  Clamping was a bit of a problem until the stole an idea from solid surface fabrication.  I hot glued some blocks to the top and used "jergie" wood clamps.
 
Oh... just remembered I have a portable "low-melt" hot melt portable edgebander that I could use to apply the glue - but it does go off a hell of a lot quicker than I can move the work surface into position...
 
I use the largest domino's in all my worktop joins.  I still use three bolts, but use 2 dominoes to allign the tops flush.  I cut one side tight & the other on the middle setting to allow sideways play for adjustment of the mitre.  Always works good.

Woodguy.
 
I was trying to see if I could get away with the bolts... I presume they do the "pulling" to evenly join the surface. However, I am considering using a bessey seaming clamp PS55. I have one area of worktop that needs to be 1025mm wide. Thus I will join one 650 + a 375 offcut from another 650 deep surface.

I will use "short" bolts as I need to cut NEAR the 650 / 375 join... I could bolt either and use domino's where I will be cutting - thus no problems !!
 
Great thread Paul

Here is a jig that i picked up that really speeds up the draw notches routing, and allows you to getaway from the long 45 miters in post-formed tops It has really sped up my installation time.
sendbinary_1_-220x164.jpg


http://virutex.com/routingtemplatefortrimmingcountertopspfe60.aspx

the only issue i see with the domino system id needing to use a suction clamp to draw it together till the glue dries.
the super benefit i see is the alignment
I think I will use a couple in the next post form i do.

Thanks Craig
 
paul_david_thomas said:
Oh... just remembered I have a portable "low-melt" hot melt portable edgebander that I could use to apply the glue - but it does go off a hell of a lot quicker than I can move the work surface into position...

Is your edge-bander like this one
PEB50Temp1-350x408.jpg


if so (even if not) would you care to share your thots on its use, and if it is indeed worth the $3000.  I had been kicking around the idea of one until I found Johnsonite Power tape, this stuff is designed to glue rubber tread nosings to concrete steps in commercial buildings,  and is perfect for laminate edges and even reglueing rubber edges to rails ;). http://www.tools4flooring.com/johnsonite-power-tape-15-in-x-164-ft-p-438.html?___store=english_11239125331.
but the bander is so Hot---melt  ;)
Craig
 
Craig,  That power tape looks interesting.  If you're gluing end caps and such, I assume I could use it for applying end panels and skins???  Any thoughts.  Anything to get away from contact cement and even a few less pin nails on a job would be welcome.

Dan
 
Craig,

yes, thats what ive got.... It's great for doing cupboard doors/carcasses... It's a complicated thing getting the right glue for the material...  You really want to buy un-filled glue, means it's clear... however, i had to import mine from germany... to be honest, the company never bothered billing me for the 25kg bag... I then used rehau tools to trim it all... expensive, but good tools...

but the results are totally professional.
 
Dan,
you can pick up a roll at any flooring wholesaler who handles
Johnsonite,  The best advise i can give is try a 1 1/2 roll  Think of it as STRONG contact adhesive on a roll.

Paul how do you run it to inside corners?  precut to length and glue it?

Thanks Craig
 
if it's a curved corner, use the machine... can't remember min radius. Otherwise put on with machine as normal and glue up bit it does not get,.
 
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