Timtool
Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2011
- Messages
- 1,011
I knew my fence wasn't flat but slightly concave, and that i had frequent kick backs on the kapex. Then i read on here that i wasn't the only one.
I had tried some time ago to force the kapex fence flat by unscrewing it and with a clamp forcing it as flat as possible while tightening it back again. But it only slightly reduced the gap, which was of 0.6mm in the center. With this small gap when cutting wide or thick boards as soon as the cut was through the two halves would close together as they were pulled to close the gap, which pinches the blade and cause the saw head to violently fly toward you.
I guess i learned to live with it by preparing myself to stop the saw from kicking back, but each time it happens it is scary!
[attachimg=#]
So i thought of a way to make the fence flat, by attaching a solid wood fence to it and then passing it over the jointer until flat! And it works!
I used quarter sawn beechwood and finished it with two coats of boat varnish to make sure it doesn't "move"
Mine is 10mm thick so it allows you to still use the clamp, but i would suggest to use 8mm to have a little extra room.
[attachimg=#]
I used the opportunity to also finally build a zero clearance insert, it somehow scared me to do that, while finally it took less than 15 minutes to make!
I was also surprised to find out that besides no more kick backs, it has also improved DC, the saw used to throw dust through the large gap in the center of the standard fence. But now that gap is closed and the dust goes up into the dust shroud.
I had tried some time ago to force the kapex fence flat by unscrewing it and with a clamp forcing it as flat as possible while tightening it back again. But it only slightly reduced the gap, which was of 0.6mm in the center. With this small gap when cutting wide or thick boards as soon as the cut was through the two halves would close together as they were pulled to close the gap, which pinches the blade and cause the saw head to violently fly toward you.
I guess i learned to live with it by preparing myself to stop the saw from kicking back, but each time it happens it is scary!
[attachimg=#]
So i thought of a way to make the fence flat, by attaching a solid wood fence to it and then passing it over the jointer until flat! And it works!
I used quarter sawn beechwood and finished it with two coats of boat varnish to make sure it doesn't "move"
Mine is 10mm thick so it allows you to still use the clamp, but i would suggest to use 8mm to have a little extra room.
[attachimg=#]
I used the opportunity to also finally build a zero clearance insert, it somehow scared me to do that, while finally it took less than 15 minutes to make!
I was also surprised to find out that besides no more kick backs, it has also improved DC, the saw used to throw dust through the large gap in the center of the standard fence. But now that gap is closed and the dust goes up into the dust shroud.