KAPEX Blades for Crud work

Dan Clermont

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I have a fine tooth blade made by FS Tool on my Makita Miter saw for nice clean accurate miters. When I am going to cut into cruddy wood I switch the blades to the factory Makita blade (the Makita blade is also a pretty nice blade).

If I buy a KAPEX, how much am I gonna have to pay for a junk blade for cruddy work on my KAPEX? For those of you thinking about buying the KAPEX what are your plans?

Curious Dan

 
LOL, guess buying the KAPEX wouldn't save me any space if I need to keep a second saw around for cruddy work.

Anyhow, I still want a KAPEX cause I think it will take up a smaller footprint in my shop compared to my Makita and may have to ask my Saw sharpener about cheap blades with a common arbor size with the KAPEX

Dan Clermont
 
greg mann said:
Your saw sharpener may be able to bore a blade out for you.

Wasn't there a thread about this recently?  I think the conclusion was that after you pay to rebore a crud blade, it's still a crud blade but it's no longer a cheap one.
 
What is cruddy wood? Do you mean wood with nails or something else in it? I use the hardest woods possible and find no need to change the blade in fear of ruining it. I can only think you mean wood from pallets or from demolition that may have something in the wood that will damage the blade.
 
  Nick, I use my miter saw to cut all kinds of material, things like framing lumber, pressure treated lumber, primed/painted stock, ABS/PVC pipe, PVC trim and stock that may have nail or screws in it. All of this stuff is hard on blades, especially the PVC trim, that I use more and more each year. The cost of blades is a real issue for me.
 
The worst thing I have encountered  with blades is the prefinished engineered flooring . It actually causes sparks when cutting some of the products.

But it doesn't ruin the blade, just wears them faster. And I still find a better blade ,getting it sharpened is more cost effective  than a junk blade that cuts like crap and doesn't last as long and is hardly worth getting sharpened.

I am lucky now that I exclusively cut wood now. I use mostly Forrest blades and I am very happy with them and get a few sharpening out of them. I would change the blade for green treat only because of the resin build up and PVC is not wood so the same blade used for wood is probably not the best anyway.

And of course if there is a chance of any kind of metal I would not take the chance with a new expensive blade. There are a few blades designed for cutting wood with nails in them.

The saw blades are expensive, but I account for them in my prices. And to me the joy of using a great blade outweighs the money I can save getting aggravated every time I make a cut.

Again, I do not do exterior or construction type projects anymore where the competition in pricing and the quantity of cuts you make on each job far outweigh what I do.When I had a deck company I did have a saw set up for the framing(green Treat) and a saw set up for the decking railing etc(redwood, cedar, ipe).

So I guess cruddy wood is wood that may have nails, etc.

 
crud in english means cheap or bad quality

crud in old english (chaucer / medieval english) means sh1t

i hope the automatic swear machine doesnt remove the word because it is correct (but not pc) terminoligy

medieval english was not pc

we are all aware of the four letter word begining with "f" that also is medieval english, it is used daily worldwide
 
Yeah, I use the "F" word sometimes daily, I only wish after being married so long I could actually do the "F" word daily!
 
Nick,

Frequency is inversely proportional to duration of relationship

translation - don't hold your breath waiting for it to get better
 
Ahh Laminate flooring.

First, I try to talk clients out of it.

When that fails.....

Festool jig saw with the guide rail plate.

See, Jig saw blades are disposable.

Now that CRUD ain't even worth one of those oldham blades

in the yellow sticker bin.

Per,  per, Per, thats funny Dixon.
 
Per Swenson said:
Ahh Laminate flooring.

First, I try to talk clients out of it.

When that fails.....

Festool jig saw with the guide rail plate.

See, Jig saw blades are disposable.

Now that CRUD ain't even worth one of those oldham blades

in the yellow sticker bin.

Per,  per, Per, thats funny Dixon.

Yeah I am a 3/4" guy, but engineered is NOT laminate although the hardwood layer is laminated on Engineered flooring. When I think laminate I think PERGO, not sandable and NOT a real hardwood "wear layer". The best Engineered floors are not that bad

I have 3/4" in my house though!

nickao
 
bonesbr549 said:
Will the kapex not take a standard bore blade? If not, what is the bore?

30mm.  Just for comparison, about 1.18 inches.
 
Per Swenson said:
Ahh Laminate flooring.

First, I try to talk clients out of it.

When that fails.....

Festool jig saw with the guide rail plate.

See, Jig saw blades are disposable.

Now that CRUD ain't even worth one of those oldham blades

in the yellow sticker bin.

Per,  per, Per, thats funny Dixon.

I try, Per.  Perhaps we'll meet someday, Per.
 
It is my understanding that the Kapex blades are as you'd expect, high quality, high price. This is not different that the other brand (high quality) blades we're used to. As stated above, I cut crud, so I need less expensive blades. Maybe after the Kapex is released here we will see 30 mm arbor blades by other manufactures and less expensive choices.
 
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