KAPEX Blades for Crud work

Sorta off topic,

I am sitting around and rolling around my tongue,  the name "crudcutter"

Has a ring to it, No?

For you enterprising Folks.

www. crudcutter. com is a available domain name.

Best of luck in these tough times.

Per
 
I haven't had an issue with the blade yet. I've used it for framing, cut pressure treated, and laid a 6 square metre 19mm solid oak engineered floor. That last did have an alumina oxide lacquer coating on it. It might be starting to dull a bit but it's still a nice clean cut. I think when I have to, I'm just going to buy a second standard blade so I have one to send off to the sharp shop while one's on the beast.
 
You might as well just buy a low tooth count saw blade and purpose it as your crud blade, then from that point on you won't feel bad about using one of your "good" blades for the rougher cuts.  I would much rather have one blade to use on the crud cuts then not have one at all and end up cutting with whatever blade was on the saw at the time.

Just my 2.5 cents (inflation sucks)

--Jason
 
Heck,  I'm just happy that I actually started to take the time to send blades out for sharpening.  I had always just been throwing them out and getting new ones.  Well I paid around $200 for a mitermaster from forrest... Had it about 3 weeks and cut through a couple of pocket holes screws I wasn't expecting in some maple.  Well it cost $85 to have forrest replace 14 teeth and resharpen and I was ok with that.  I now have 4 woodworker II's, 2 chop masters, and the Miter Master, as well as several TS55 blades to rotate through.  I really hate cutting anything with a dull blade.  I probably change them out more than most people will but oh well...  On my CMS I cut doug fir 2x4, pressure treated 2x4, 2x6, 6x6's, pre finished hardwood moldings, etc.  I can't spend time changing blades out and don't want to sacrifice cut quality either.  Just make sure you are billing enough to cover all your consumables (~5%) and then replace and buy what you need and don't think about it.

Chris...
 
Chris Mercado said:
Heck,  I'm just happy that I actually started to take the time to send blades out for sharpening.  I had always just been throwing them out and getting new ones.  Well I paid around $200 for a mitermaster from forrest... Had it about 3 weeks and cut through a couple of pocket holes screws I wasn't expecting in some maple.  Well it cost $85 to have forrest replace 14 teeth and resharpen and I was ok with that.  I now have 4 woodworker II's, 2 chop masters, and the Miter Master, as well as several TS55 blades to rotate through.  I really hate cutting anything with a dull blade.  I probably change them out more than most people will but oh well...  On my CMS I cut doug fir 2x4, pressure treated 2x4, 2x6, 6x6's, pre finished hardwood moldings, etc.  I can't spend time changing blades out and don't want to sacrifice cut quality either.  Just make sure you are billing enough to cover all your consumables (~5%) and then replace and buy what you need and don't think about it.

Chris...
Click to expand...

You are describing me to a tee. I threw out WAY to many Forrest blades. The resharpening is awesome with them. Do you just use the Forrest service? I love all the Forest blades.

One question. I  just received the Forrest blade on the TS 75 and it is marked 190 mm for the TS75 on the box of the blade. But the blade is actually slightly smaller than the blade that came with the Festool.

Did I get the wrong blade in the right box or does Forrest design it this way to get a cleaner cut with their 50 tipped blade? Its a Forrest woodworker I made for the Festool saws.

This is the blade I got - Forrest WW19507100 Woodworker I 190mm 50 Tooth 30mm Arbor 3/32" Kerf Circular Saw Blade For Festool Saws

blade

nickao
 
FesGeek said:
You might as well just buy a low tooth count saw blade and purpose it as your crud blade, then from that point on you won't feel bad about using one of your "good" blades for the rougher cuts.  I would much rather have one blade to use on the crud cuts then not have one at all and end up cutting with whatever blade was on the saw at the time.

Just my 2.5 cents (inflation sucks)

--Jason
Click to expand...

Yeah, the thing is there aren't that many aftermarket blades available for the Kapex yet. I'm not going to waste time or money getting someone to punch the right arbor on a 'crap' blade, what's the point? The right blade was made to work with the right saw. I don't really want to use a crap blade, even if I'm cutting crap, in which case I'm more in line with Per, I'll use a crap saw. There's plenty of those around. I agree with Chris and others as well, you have to build consumables in and then don't think about it. But like I said, the original's still good, when it needs a sharpen I'll send it off and buy a new one to swap it with. That's good enough for me.
 
Yeah, the thing is there aren't that many aftermarket blades available for the Kapex yet. I'm not going to waste time or money getting someone to punch the right arbor on a 'crap' blade, what's the point? The right blade was made to work with the right saw. I don't really want to use a crap blade, even if I'm cutting crap, in which case I'm more in line with Per, I'll use a crap saw. There's plenty of those around. I agree with Chris and others as well, you have to build consumables in and then don't think about it. But like I said, the original's still good, when it needs a sharpen I'll send it off and buy a new one to swap it with. That's good enough for me.
[/quote]

Excuse me, let me clarify a little...I believe we are on the same train of though.  I meant you should just bite the bullet and buy a Festool Blade for the Kapex and designate it the crap blade to use on those iffy jobs where you don't want to risk it.
 
Just for future notes
The blades that will be available for the kapex will be
494604 60t universal blade. $115 its the blade that comes with the saw and a very good all around blade.
494605 80t fine blade.$128 higher tooth count for a finer finishs and on delicate materials
494606 64t laminate/composites. $120Triple chip design
494607 68t aluminium/plastics.$122 triple chip for non ferrous/hard plastics/pvcs/acrylics and phenolics.
all are -5 degree tooth angle.
All the blades are maximum quality, high cutting quality, excellent sharpening life /optimized chip guidance and vibration and noise calibrated.
they are 260mm d with a 30mm bore.
I have tried other brands and they have shortcomings compared to the festool blade. Most noticeably the reduction of depth of cut . most 10'' blades come in at 9 7/8'' and  250mm which is the most prevailant metric size. The kapex is 260 mm and is aprox. 10 1/4-5/16'' this is approximately 3/8'' difference which on a scms is a particular concern to fully cut the last bit of material against the fence.
Also finding a 30mm arbor on a 10'' blade here stateside is very limited at best without reboring and these blades are more a specialty item and much more expensive than the festool blades in the first place. I have done the search for my saw and once again as usual festool has done it right.
Use the 60t for the crud as you say and you have the best crud cuts around. I have hit several nails and embedded alum/bronze in some crud I was trashing and didn't notice a change in cut quality so far.

Regards
Bill

To dan rush and others
reboring yourself with a step drill is asking for trouble. the balance is easily altered and chasing your saw while trying to make a cut is not a good form of exercise. Nor is it good for the tool for very long.
Most quality blades are hardened steel bodies and will dull the best step drills before you cut thru anyhow and now you ruined both.
Been there done that.
 
Those price compare to Forrest blades so they do not seem overly expensive at all. The Forrest blades can actually cost more depending on which one you get. I believe  Forrest charges like 20.00(someone can correct me if I am wrong) to bore any size hole you want in their blades, but the Festool prices seem reasonable for good quality blades to me.

nickao
 
FesGeek said:
Yeah, the thing is there aren't that many aftermarket blades available for the Kapex yet. I'm not going to waste time or money getting someone to punch the right arbor on a 'crap' blade, what's the point? The right blade was made to work with the right saw. I don't really want to use a crap blade, even if I'm cutting crap, in which case I'm more in line with Per, I'll use a crap saw. There's plenty of those around. I agree with Chris and others as well, you have to build consumables in and then don't think about it. But like I said, the original's still good, when it needs a sharpen I'll send it off and buy a new one to swap it with. That's good enough for me.
Click to expand...

Excuse me, let me clarify a little...I believe we are on the same train of though.  I meant you should just bite the bullet and buy a Festool Blade for the Kapex and designate it the crap blade to use on those iffy jobs where you don't want to risk it.
[/quote]

Out of the available options, by your definition, I'd probably have two crap blades made by Festool.  ;D ;D ;D
 
  Cruddy saw for cruddy stuff

  Kapex for the kapex stuff, got it. thank you

                                                    Dan
         
                                           
 
I think Festool's arbor size is impressive evidence of general beefiness.

30mm -- that's 1.18 inches

typical 10" chopsaw blade is 5/8", or 0.625 inches, or 15.9mm

typical 12" chopsaw blade is 1", or 1.000 inches, or 25.4mm

All you guys who are arguing for 1/2"-shank router bits should be really impressed by this.

Ned
 
Dan Uhlir said:
  Cruddy saw for cruddy stuff

  Kapex for the kapex stuff, got it. thank you

                                                    Dan
         
                                           
Click to expand...

Ummm...that would mean two luggin around two saws...not going to happen. The old saw (cruddy saw) is going to get sold to pay for a small portion of the kick-arss saw.
 
I started this thread expecting the KAPEX blades to be $300 each for some reason.

With my TS-55 I have two of the blades which come stock with the saw. When one gets dull I send it out for sharpening and put the other one in which came back from the sharpening shop when it dulled. For $120 ish for a replacement blade on the KAPEX why bother keeping a second saw around in your shop just for crud work? Use the blade on the KAPEX, abuse the KAPEX and enjoy it.

Just my two "Canadian" two cents
Dan Clermont
 
FesGeek said:
Your Festools must cherished and never be abused...just properly broken in  ;D
Click to expand...

Festool's are made to be abused! That is why they are expensive. I've let several people borrow my sander just so it gets some exercise every now and then when I am too busy for the shop! Kind of like a dog, it needs to be walked

Dan C ;)
 
Dan Clermont said:
Festool's are made to be abused! That is why they are expensive. I've let several people borrow my sander just so it gets some exercise every now and then! Kind of like a dog, it needs to be walked

Dan C ;)
Click to expand...

Dude, I was on your side...the whole properly broken comment (sarcastic humor).  ;)
 
There is a difference between abuse and hard use.

Abuse: Tossing your sander to the the floor from the top of a ladder.

Hard use: Sanding Santos mahogany for an entire 8 hour shift.

I finally stopped lending out my tools. Most guys that even ask to borrow my Festool have no clue what they cost or they probably wouldn't ask. To many times my tools have come back broken or just plain dirty. Its fine if I dirty them up, but when borrowing someones tools you should return them in the same or better condition then when returned, ie return it with some sandpaper and don't return it with a bunch of mud on it.  I think "do yo borrow out your Festools" could be its own thread. I think I will start one if it hasn't been already.
 
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