Kapex: Festool Seeking Member Feedback

Sorry, didn't mean to leave you hanging--http://www.stabila.com/main.taf?p=1,2,3,4

When I say build slop in, I'm talking about framing construction, not finish work. I try not to measure finish work with anything but the work itself, but I use three sizes of steel rule if I'm that close.

TG, you don't think accurate to the millimeter is accurate enough for tight framing work?  ??? If I get more accurate than to the mm in framing, I'm installing with a belt sander, planer, and sledge! ;D ;D ;D
 
If you go to the website that Eli posted and click on "Watch movie" you will see a demo by Gary Katz on the device (and other stabila products) for the trim carpenter.
 
Well for me, just the fact that the guide rails don't push out the back is the big seller for me. For those of you that have seen the pics of my shop you know it's a justifiable purchase. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. ;D
 
How does one disable the 2 button thing? Has anyone done it?
That plus the vertical handle make this less desirable - wrist fatigue/injury.
Of course the cost is not really a factor! :'(
 
Hi Marhk,

From my own experience and watching others use the Kapex I think the comfort in using the vertical handle is a function of work height relative to the height of the operator.  I really like being able to use the Kapex either right or left handed without having to change anything.  I also really like the two button activation as there are many times I find alignment easier if the motor/blade housing is lowered a bit so the laser lines show on my mark better.  I don't want the blade spinning while that is going on.  It also seems more natural to me to lower the housing while pulling it back to the front of the cut before spinning the blade.  With the soft start feature the blade spins up smoothly and quickly.  One always wants to use a sliding compound miter saw by pushing the spinning blade into the work piece against the fence, never by pulling the spinning blade from the rear to the front which tries to force the work piece away from the fence. 

So, my answer to your question is don't do it.  Keep both functions of the two button engagement in place just like they are.  If hand/wrist fatigue is an issue, adjust the working height of the Kapex and I think you will find a sweet spot where it is most comfortable.  Hope this helps.

Jerry

Marhk said:
How does one disable the 2 button thing? Has anyone done it?
That plus the vertical handle make this less desirable - wrist fatigue/injury.
Of course the cost is not really a factor! :'(
 
Marhk said:
How does one disable the 2 button thing? Has anyone done it?
That plus the vertical handle make this less desirable - wrist fatigue/injury.
Of course the cost is not really a factor! :'(

put tape over it so it stays down, but you did not hear that from me, that is what I heard on the grapevine
 
When I used the Kapex in Henderson I found the handle to be a real hassle. I prefer the vertical handle like the Kapex has, I didn't like how the power switch needed to by pressed to lower the saw blade. I thought it was very uncomfortable. The Festool trainers told me they got used to the saw's handle in no time and that I would too. I was willing to believe them and it turned out to be true. The got the technique down in the first day now I have no issues with the saw's handle, safety switch. No need for tape.
 
I agree with Brice. I bought mine on Thursday and we put it to use on Friday. Fitting skirting's and architrave's. All my lads have "come off" DW708's and Makita's and adapted to the Kapex fairly quickly.

I think Festool have missed the point with the stand though. As a "traditional" English carpenter (We do Framing, Trim work and Refurbishment) my van is full enough already. The British market is crying out for a decent SCMS stand. The offerings from DeWalt and Bosch are poor. If only the Sawhelper range was readily available......

My brother and I were building cabinets today. The subject of Laser colour came up. Shouldn't it be GREEN on a Festool  ;D ;D
 
Dave Rudy said:
If you go to the website that Eli posted and click on "Watch movie" you will see a demo by Gary Katz on the device (and other stabila products) for the trim carpenter.

Yes, Gary highly recommended I look into adding a Stabila LE50 to my tool arsenal, it was a great investment.  It is very accurate and saves time, especially for those of you that work alone like I do.

http://www.stabila.com/main.taf?p=1,2,3,4
 
honeydokreg said:
Marhk said:
How does one disable the 2 button thing? Has anyone done it?
That plus the vertical handle make this less desirable - wrist fatigue/injury.
Of course the cost is not really a factor! :'(

put tape over it so it stays down, but you did not hear that from me, that is what I heard on the grapevine

BAD IDEA EVEN IF YOU DIDNT HEAR IT FROM ME.  No one here should be suggesting dangerous procedures. PERIOD.
 
I stopped by Rockler to look at the Kapex today.  I looked at it, I touched it, played with it a little bit.  But I don't own one!

I liked -

.......the quick clamps they have to hold material down on the table.  Fast, simple to use.

.......the ease of adjusting the fences

.......the storage of their angle device on the left hand side.  Lord, if I was to be talked into buying one of these, it would be because of this accessory working with the laser.  Thats really sexy right there!  I'll be asking the trim guys later this fall if it really works as good as it looks on video.

One concern - There is a little filister screw that acts as a stop for the fence on each end.  It seems to be really really tiny.  It looks like a good candidate to get sheared off by who know what.  I'd request a heavier screw be put in there, or some other method used to stop the fence.

Steve

edited because I don't know my right from my left.  Can't spell neither!
 
The hold down clamp is truly superior. I regularly hang the big end of the board off in space and the clamp holds it flat on the table and can be easily set with one hand.

The angle finder kicks a$$, I used it having never read the instructions. It works well. (it's stowed on the left, just so you don't have trouble finding it when you do buy a Kapex ;D ;D )

The little fence screw? I sunk both of them the first week I had the saw and haven't touched them since. It's inconvenient not being able to pull the fence tool-less, and you have to do it sometimes to flop all the way over. With them sunk all the way the fences will come right off, and you don't have to worry about losing (I don't think you could shear the screws but you could raise a burr in the fence track, a different issue) the screws.

The whole two button thing/vertical handle is a total non-issue, whatever your stance/past saws. I don't even think about it, and my wrists or hands certainly don't hurt despite having used it every week for the last year.

Haven't had any abnormal metal noises anywhere. Yes, rubbing and noises, but nothing that prevented the saw from working, and I didn't think it was a big deal.

I did have an issue with the lasers (not out of the box, after I'd used and transported it several times) that was fixed in about a week when I sent it in. The big delay was waiting for a new sticker to cover the adjustment holes.

I've been happy with the saw. I felt like I was short three fingers while it was getting serviced.
 
I've had my Kapex for about 2 weeks now and absolutely love it.
I am not a contractor, but I can appreciate top quality tools that give professional results. By professional, I mean as if a person were doing these projects for their own house and actually care. Not just some jerk you throw money at and have to redo their cover-up work 5 or 6 years down the road. I do hire out contractors for some work, but I am very selective for this very reason. 95 percent of the time, if I want it fixed right and right now, I do it myself.
I don't have alot of room in my shop and the Kapex stores and moves very easily when not in use. This seems to be a theme that all  Festool tools have in common. Keep up the good work guys.
Everything worked perfectly right out of the box.
I have had the slightest bit of tear-out on the very back edge on some of my cuts, but I have not been using a backing board or an auxiliary fence. I'm thinking that would help. Besides, these come out just fine if I rake past them with a pocket knife.
The only reason I mention this minor issue is because I own a TS-75 and am used to perfect cuts. With the exception of the TS-75, this saw cuts better than any other saw I have owned so far.

Going along with the subject of this post, there are two things that I can think of that would make this a better saw:

1) How about sending an 8 foot section of 36mm hose with the Kapex?

2) I really like the dual lasers, But they could be...GREEN. Easier to see in bright daylight, and it's GREEN.

Just my thoughts

Greg
 
Greg,

Not too sure if you are interested in getting a short hose or just having one included, but here you go.  Timmy C. packaged this up just for guys/gals like us.  It's a 7 footer to dedicate to your Kapex for just $65! 

http://www.festooljunkie.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/76/products_id/1330/paraphernalia/festool-d36-hose-as-7-footer.html

Chris...

Greg in Memphis said:
I've had my Kapex for about 2 weeks now and absolutely love it.
I am not a contractor, but I can appreciate top quality tools that give professional results. By professional, I mean as if a person were doing these projects for their own house and actually care. Not just some jerk you throw money at and have to redo their cover-up work 5 or 6 years down the road. I do hire out contractors for some work, but I am very selective for this very reason. 95 percent of the time, if I want it fixed right and right now, I do it myself.
I don't have alot of room in my shop and the Kapex stores and moves very easily when not in use. This seems to be a theme that all  Festool tools have in common. Keep up the good work guys.
Everything worked perfectly right out of the box.
I have had the slightest bit of tear-out on the very back edge on some of my cuts, but I have not been using a backing board or an auxiliary fence. I'm thinking that would help. Besides, these come out just fine if I rake past them with a pocket knife.
The only reason I mention this minor issue is because I own a TS-75 and am used to perfect cuts. With the exception of the TS-75, this saw cuts better than any other saw I have owned so far.

Going along with the subject of this post, there are two things that I can think of that would make this a better saw:

1) How about sending an 8 foot section of 36mm hose with the Kapex?

2) I really like the dual lasers, But they could be...GREEN. Easier to see in bright daylight, and it's GREEN.

Just my thoughts

Greg
 
I've had my Kapex for nine months (Australia got it before the US for once) and really like a lot of the features and how good a cut it produces once it is setup and used carefully. I like the handle which is comfortable on the right height bench. The dual dotted lasers are great when they are working properly.

BUT, Festool really stuffed up this one and released it way too early, before it was fully tested by real users.
I've already had the table lock thing (scrapping) fixed (six months ago) and now the right laser has a mind of it's own and changes angle on a whim, so the laser mounts are not sturdy enough. My Kapex has only left my workshop once (for warranty repair), so doesn't get knocked around.

Things I would expect to improve with the next release.
1) A better flatter table insert. The cheap plastic standard one warps after three months of hot and cold weather to make the table unlevel and leads to bad cuts.
2) More accurate preset mitre indents. With the saw set for perfect 90degree cuts the 45degrees are not perfect 45degrees.
3) Factory calibration tolerances are too big, leading to the need to calibrate it out of the box.This may be the cause of 2)
4) Thicker or stronger slides to reduce flex. It is easy to move the blade left and right. Care must be taken to get a good cut on thick stock.
5) Tools should be provided in the box to enable adjustments. A toolie would have been nice. At least they seem to supply a 2.5mm hex wrench for laser adjustment now. This is a new thing.
6) The blade should move back further (say 2inches) so that trenching can be done without the need to use a two inch auxillary fence (not supplied). OR at least make the hold-down bigger so that it can be used with a two inch auxillary fence.
7) Pre-punch the laser adjustment holes for easy access and they will be neater.

I like the saw, but just feel that for the price and brand it could have been much better.
Disappointingly I use my $150 incra mitre gauge on my tablesaw for accurate mitres and mainly use the Kapex as a chop/mitre saw for my more "robust" work. Not what I expected when I bought it.
It's a good addition to my shop and not very loud or big which is a plus.
 
Jerry Work said:
Hi Marhk,

From my own experience and watching others use the Kapex I think the comfort in using the vertical handle is a function of work height relative to the height of the operator.  I really like being able to use the Kapex either right or left handed without having to change anything.  I also really like the two button activation as there are many times I find alignment easier if the motor/blade housing is lowered a bit so the laser lines show on my mark better.  I don't want the blade spinning while that is going on.  It also seems more natural to me to lower the housing while pulling it back to the front of the cut before spinning the blade.  With the soft start feature the blade spins up smoothly and quickly.   One always wants to use a sliding compound miter saw by pushing the spinning blade into the work piece against the fence, never by pulling the spinning blade from the rear to the front which tries to force the work piece away from the fence. 

So, my answer to your question is don't do it.  Keep both functions of the two button engagement in place just like they are.  If hand/wrist fatigue is an issue, adjust the working height of the Kapex and I think you will find a sweet spot where it is most comfortable.  Hope this helps.

Jerry

Marhk said:
How does one disable the 2 button thing? Has anyone done it?
That plus the vertical handle make this less desirable - wrist fatigue/injury.
Of course the cost is not really a factor! :'(
 
Back
Top