Kapex Question

Cheese said:
Then make sure the blade is adequately recessed in the ZCI. There should be no space between the blade and the back of the vertical fence.

Is this meant to 'make sure you push the blade all the way down before finishing the cut', or are you suggesting some calibration to get to this point?  I am still on the fence about ordering my Kapex so this information is very helpful to me.
 
Rick Herrick said:
Is this meant to 'make sure you push the blade all the way down before finishing the cut', or are you suggesting some calibration to get to this point?  I am still on the fence about ordering my Kapex so this information is very helpful to me.

Rick, there's a blade height adjustment on the Kapex. The photo of the blade being above the ZCI is how the Kapex was delivered with the saw head fully depressed and moved fully rearwards to the fence. Because of that, I was experiencing a lot of small projectiles being bounced around the shop. I've owned several miter saws but never experienced the projectile issue before.

Once the blade height was adjusted the issue went away. A combination of the "prop wash" moving the off cut around while the teeth on the blade are still exposed and they can catch an edge.
 
Cheese said:
Rick, there's a blade height adjustment on the Kapex. The photo of the blade being above the ZCI is how the Kapex was delivered with the saw head fully depressed and moved fully rearwards to the fence. Because of that, I was experiencing a lot of small projectiles being bounced around the shop. I've owned several miter saws but never experienced the projectile issue before.

Once the blade height was adjusted the issue went away. A combination of the "prop wash" moving the off cut around while the teeth on the blade are still exposed and they can catch an edge.
Thanks Cheese, very good info for us Kapex rookies. Going to check my Bosch now to see if I have that issue.
 
The blade height adjustment is set by a human, the one who assembles the saw or QC it before it leaves the factory. My Kapex didn't have the problem illustrated by Cheese when received. Simply follow Cheese's good advice and check on the height adjustment knob (i.e. lower the blade if it isn't already set to the bottom in the factory). Remember to reset it if you have changed it, say, to make some dado (trench) cuts.

Also, wait for the blade coasting to stop because lifting up the sawhead/blade.
 
Cheese said:
Medickep said:
I noticed the saw was shooting little pieces of wood across my garage like rockets, so I added the fence to prevent that. 

The first thing I'd do is to shim the zero clearance insert in the table to be flush with the table top. Insert some thin washers and shim it up flush but do not go higher than flush. That alone should make a difference in the amount of projectiles. It should look similar to this.

[attachimg=3]

Then make sure the blade is adequately recessed in the ZCI. There should be no space between the blade and the back of the vertical fence.

Here a straightedge is placed against the fence and the blade is lowered and pushed completely rearward to the fence. This is how I received the Kapex. This produces a lot of little projectiles.

[attachimg=1]

Here the blade has been lowered so that it's completely inside the ZCI and there is no daylight between the blade and the fence.

[attachimg=2]

Thank you for the tips!! I will take a look at this ASAP!!  For the money, I would have hope it came setup right!  As far as the dust collection is concerned, I realized I had inserted the hoses wrong after I redid my work bench when I got the saw!!😂😂

I will also do the shim suggestion! Get reaquated to the metric system😂
 
My Kapex is still not here, even though I was told it was in stock... I sold my Bosch is 2 days so I hope the Kapex gets here soon.

Concerning electrical.  My garage still only has 1-15a circuit.  I have had many issues with this.  On my Bosch, I had a smaller 4hp Ridgid and and IVac.  I never tripped the breaker.  But wondering now about the Kapex.  I am assuming that the Kapex with the CT26 will trip the 15a?  I may get another smaller Ridgid (I sold the one with the Bosch) and see if that will work until I can figure out adding some circuits.
 
Here the blade has been lowered so that it's completely inside the ZCI and there is no daylight between the blade and the fence.

Cheese-

I pulled the lever forward and lowered the blade as much as possible and than raised it back up. The following image shows how it looks now. Does this look right?
 

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Medickep said:
Here the blade has been lowered so that it's completely inside the ZCI and there is no daylight between the blade and the fence.

Cheese-

I pulled the lever forward and lowered the blade as much as possible and than raised it back up. The following image shows how it looks now. Does this look right?

Ya it looks good...don't forget to shim up your ZCI. Cut up some scrap and compare the before & after.
 
Bugsysiegals said:
Is it better to buy a ZCI or make your own?

It depends upon how much time you have to ignore other items that are on your list of things to do.

 
Bugsysiegals said:
Is it better to buy a ZCI or make your own?

Buy. A ZCI is a consumable. Fastcap's is about $1 a piece. I'm using my second one and my saw is 5 years old.

Aluminum ones use replaceable inserts, but are more pricey.
 
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