Kapex vs. ??????????????

Brice,

I saw you had posted over on the Aussie version of this site. Did you follow the Kapex thread?? Specifically, did you read the posts by the English guy who had the problem with 10 Kapex saws and then the Festool Engineer came over and stopped production? WOW.

I hope they get the monkeys worked out before they put it here...

Rod
 
  Rod, I've followed that thread, 10 bad saws does sound a little fishy to me?? I know we don't like waiting for the new tools to make it here, but the upshot is all of the bugs get worked out before we get them (in theory, anyhow).
 
rodwolfy said:
Brice,

I saw you had posted over on the Aussie version of this site. Did you follow the Kapex thread?? Specifically, did you read the posts by the English guy who had the problem with 10 Kapex saws and then the Festool Engineer came over and stopped production? WOW.

I hope they get the monkeys worked out before they put it here...

Rod

That thread, with the defective saws, is the main reason I'm concerned about the lack of weight with the Kapex. Something just doesn't seem right to me there. Its virtually (notice I said virtually) impossible to build something that will hold up to the day to day rigors of jobsite usage and still have it be very light in weight. A shop setting is a totally different manner, you can pull that off quite easily.

Time will tell.
 
I have used the Makita LS1013 and LS0714 extensively, owning the latter.
The footprint of the LS0714 is very small and it has a double sliding rail and cuts 300mm width boards and weighs very little. It's a keeper in my book.

At work I use the Festool SYM 70, and it is very expensive for the limited / small size wood it can cut. But cut quality is excellent and it is very lightweight.

I have yet to find a DeWalt mitre saw to my liking. 

I am tempted by the small Makita rip/mitre saw for flexibility / portability for on site work, but I just got the Makita LS1000 Flipper so I would end up not using either the Flipper or the LS0714 much.

 
Lou, I agree, weight equals substantial construction, in turn means durably. How well the tool performs right out of the box is very important, but how it stands up the punishment of professional use is the real test. You guys that never have to take your tools out of the shop don't know how good you have it. The ware and tare that my tools receive just from transporting them everyday can exceeds that of the actual use. OK, that may be a bit of a stretch, but you get the point.

  I've looked as closely at pictures of the Kapex, looking at the design, as you can imagine, it is hard to see how well built the tool is. One thing of note is the fact the saw is smaller than the 12" saws I'm used to, that will account for some of the weight factor. Some of the question I have are: Does it have less metal and or more plastic than some of the other saws on the market? What kind of metal alloys are used and how will they hold up? Has Festool come up with a new design, with the Kapex, that is sturdy and still light weight? So far, I've read about a few people complaining about the initial build quality of the Kapex. I really don't know if their claims have merit or not. However, some owners commented on their lasers needing to be adjusted after transporting the saw to and from the job site a few times( I read this one a few times now and I believe it). I've not read about any other substantial issues with the Kapex's durability.

  I can tell you that when I get me hands on a Kapex you will see a review unlike any that are out there now. I will be looking at the design, construction, build quality and usefulness of the features for the perspective of a professional carpenter. I would like to focus on the design first, how does it differ form other saws, and is this new design a real improvement over the competitors? Next, build quality, are the tables truly coplanar, how accurate are the cuts and so on. Then the usefulness of the features like the lasers, the miter/bevel controls and of course the dust collection. I can't give anyone a useful comments on a race car, but I can (and will) give you meaningful opinions on a SCMS. My standards for a SCMS are very high, we will see if the Kapex is up to the task.
 
Brice; this I look forward to. :)

I am not by any means a world class carpenter but the things I do are usually on the spot problem solving and this means tweaking of hand tools and sometimes machines to fit the problem of the day.
Among the things that I look for when choosing / using tools are the shortcomings, if any, and there usually are.

Sometimes you happen on a near perfect tool - or one that does things in a breeze that other tools struggle with.  That's why I am interested in Festool gear - and that is why I am such a hard critic. I am not into gear bashing but call things as I see them and this can hurt some feelings for brand(ed) people. Some of the niche tools I am very happy to have come across are Festools and I wouldn't replace them for the world. Some Festools have counterparts that work as good as - or better - and sometimes at a better price. We must remeber that not only Festool are evolving, Makita are working hard and have a solid reputation, Bosch are being inventive and their latest offerings are promising and often well thought up. If this means Festool must up the game I am all for it - I know they can and I hope they will. If I am to pay a premium I want primo gear.

The Kapex is big - but not too heavy but most people I have spoken with on the topic are not that eager to replace their current mitre saws. Although the Kapex seems like a helluva mitre saw (and I was offered one as part payment for a job - but declined in favour of other Festool gear) there are a lot of good saws out there already, big and small ones. 

I am not trading my Makita LS0714 mitre saw for any other mitre saw, it is that good. And compact. The Kapex is a bit unwieldy for me but if I had a shop to lurk in I think I just might end up with one after all. ;)
 
Brice Burrell said:
Lou, I agree, weight equals substantial construction, in turn means durably. How well the tool performs right out of the box is very important, but how it stands up the punishment of professional use is the real test. You guys that never have to take your tools out of the shop don't know how good you have it. The ware and tare that my tools receive just from transporting them everyday can exceeds that of the actual use. OK, that may be a bit of a stretch, but you get the point.

I don't think that's a stretch at all. Its actually a very accurate statement. My tools take a very good beating bouncing around in the back of my Sierra everyday. Not just that, but you always end up rushing and grabbing things the wrong way or whatever. Having a tool that only works if you have to baby it is worthless to me. I need something that is built with the ruggedness of a Skilsaw, but has the ability to be as precise as the TS55.

For the guys that don't ever take their tools out of their shops, this is a non-issue.

 
Lou Miller said:
Having a tool that only works if you have to baby it is worthless to me.
doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me!  treat your tools right,your tools will do you right!
 
mastercabman said:
Lou Miller said:
Having a tool that only works if you have to baby it is worthless to me.
doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me!  treat your tools right,your tools will do you right!

True, but accidents can and do happen. There's no avoiding that.
 
Lou Miller said:
mastercabman said:
Lou Miller said:
Having a tool that only works if you have to baby it is worthless to me.
doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me!   treat your tools right,your tools will do you right!

True, but accidents can and do happen. There's no avoiding that.
i don't understand.accident is one thing,but making sure you tools are secured and maintained is a different thing.
or did i get it wrong.  "have to baby"  what do you mean by that?
 
mastercabman said:
Lou Miller said:
mastercabman said:
Lou Miller said:
Having a tool that only works if you have to baby it is worthless to me.
doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me!  treat your tools right,your tools will do you right!

True, but accidents can and do happen. There's no avoiding that.
i don't understand.accident is one thing,but making sure you tools are secured and maintained is a different thing.
or did i get it wrong.  "have to baby"  what do you mean by that?

I'm talking about dropping something every once in a while, or having it knocked over. Things become loose in the truck and slide around, especially when taking turns in the truck. Then there's little stuff that you can not avoid no matter how hard you try. Like banging into the saw with a 2x4 while working on a job. The moron laborer that pushes the broom into your stuff and knocks it all the over place, etc.

There are plenty of tools out there that won't hold up to simple little abuse like that, and to me they're worthless. I don't work in a controlled environment. I work quite often in a hurried state, with 18,000 things going through my mind at once, trying to beat deadlines, and trying avoid losing money. More often than not, space is at a major premium and you end up with a litter bit of a cluster $%#! of tools and that becomes a problem. Stopping to think what is best for my tools all the time is a PITA. I understand if you have a different view of it, but that's how I need to be able to work. One of these days I plan to move ALL of my work into a shop setting and then things will be different. That day is several years away though.

I've totally given up on anything made by Dewalt, Ryobi, Craftsman, Most Porter Cable and some other lines because of this. Now I focus mostly on Festool, Hilti, Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee and even some Hitachi (not to mention the toughest tool I've ever owned, a Skil wormdrive... I'd never buy anything else from that company though) cause they hold up to the riggers much better.

Trust me, there are tools that I've owned for over 20 years and they have been used and abused beyond belief, yet they are still in perfect working order. I've thrown my Skilsaw off of scaffolding or the top of roof so many times in my career that its ridiculous. Doesn't matter though, you can't destroy that tool, and to me, that makes it worth whatever the manufacturer wants to charge for it. Then there are tools (a lot of which is my Dewalt and Ryobi stuff... the junk shelves in my shop as I call them) that didn't get abused at all, just slightly mishandled and they fell apart almost right away. I'm willing to pay double or even triple what something is worth provided it can stand up to my conditions. I won't waste my time with things that are made entirely out of plastic and crappy sheet metal. I'm a very mobile contractor these days. I don't spend a whole lot of time on any one site, so durability in transport is the most important thing to me.

Hope that helps, its the best I can do to explain myself.
 
Lou Miller said:
mastercabman said:
Lou Miller said:
mastercabman said:
Lou Miller said:
Having a tool that only works if you have to baby it is worthless to me.
doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me!   treat your tools right,your tools will do you right!

True, but accidents can and do happen. There's no avoiding that.
i don't understand.accident is one thing,but making sure you tools are secured and maintained is a different thing.
or did i get it wrong.   "have to baby"  what do you mean by that?

I'm talking about dropping something every once in a while, or having it knocked over. Things become loose in the truck and slide around, especially when taking turns in the truck. Then there's little stuff that you can not avoid no matter how hard you try. Like banging into the saw with a 2x4 while working on a job. The moron laborer that pushes the broom into your stuff and knocks it all the over place, etc.

There are plenty of tools out there that won't hold up to simple little abuse like that, and to me they're worthless. I don't work in a controlled environment. I work quite often in a hurried state, with 18,000 things going through my mind at once, trying to beat deadlines, and trying avoid losing money. More often than not, space is at a major premium and you end up with a litter bit of a cluster $%#! of tools and that becomes a problem. Stopping to think what is best for my tools all the time is a PITA. I understand if you have a different view of it, but that's how I need to be able to work. One of these days I plan to move ALL of my work into a shop setting and then things will be different. That day is several years away though.

I've totally given up on anything made by Dewalt, Ryobi, Craftsman, Most Porter Cable and some other lines because of this. Now I focus mostly on Festool, Hilti, Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee and even some Hitachi (not to mention the toughest tool I've ever owned, a Skil wormdrive... I'd never buy anything else from that company though) cause they hold up to the riggers much better.

Trust me, there are tools that I've owned for over 20 years and they have been used and abused beyond belief, yet they are still in perfect working order. I've thrown my Skilsaw off of scaffolding or the top of roof so many times in my career that its ridiculous. Doesn't matter though, you can't destroy that tool, and to me, that makes it worth whatever the manufacturer wants to charge for it. Then there are tools (a lot of which is my Dewalt and Ryobi stuff... the junk shelves in my shop as I call them) that didn't get abused at all, just slightly mishandled and they fell apart almost right away. I'm willing to pay double or even triple what something is worth provided it can stand up to my conditions. I won't waste my time with things that are made entirely out of plastic and crappy sheet metal. I'm a very mobile contractor these days. I don't spend a whole lot of time on any one site, so durability in transport is the most important thing to me.

Hope that helps, its the best I can do to explain myself.
got it ! 
 
rodwolfy said:
Did you follow the Kapex thread?? Specifically, did you read the posts by the English guy who had the problem with 10 Kapex saws and then the Festool Engineer came over and stopped production? WOW.

Let's get a few things straight, so you guys stop frothing and some of you go buy offbrand saws you don't really want because you think you're in a rush to fill a hole in your collection, and the Kapex isn't worth the money or the wait (you haven't even seen one yet fer chrissakes, don't make your mind up until you get to use one at least).

(disclaimer: mostly personal opinion follows.)

I think that forum guy has (excuse the expression) a HUGE hard-on that he was able to not only return 10 of them and not have Festool tell him to piss off and find a better saw if he could buy one, but also he's flattering himself even more by claiming he single handedly shut down worldwide production.  Ask him exactly what his problems with it were and he kind of waffles. I heard the complaint about accuracy he had was that he couldn't cut a board at the extreme range width the saw could handle and flip it to complete cutting the second half of the board. Wouldn't a rational person move to the MFT at that point? So who really gives a rat's if you can crosscut a 600mm board with it. Wrong tool for the job. Of course it won't give satisfactory results. 10 saws. That's customer G0$%amn service. Start asking yourself what other company would even do that.

As to the laser, I haven't seen any problems in the two machines I've used. Mine has been fantastic right out of the box, and I had one of the first ones in the country. I'm not the rocket scientist this guy obviously is (sarcasm intended), but I haven't had a real complaint enter my mind about it yet. I've used probably five to seven other chop saws in the past and this one is a racecar in a lot full of pickups. Nothing wrong with pickups, they get the job done. And I mean racecar in the speed and accuracy sense.

The Kapex is a great saw. Full stop. There is nothing about my experience so far with this saw that would make me say they fell short of the mark. I've been using one probably three or four times a week for the last couple of months. Between yesterday and today, I probably made about a hundred cuts on one. I do own one, but I was using one on location. It did stay set up in one place the entire time, so I can't attest to moving the rig back and forth and setting it up a bunch of times, but it isn't something I'm planning on babying.

It is light, but it isn't built lightly. C'mon, how many tools (other than the worm-drive) can you buy anymore that aren't plastic and some kind of alloy? I've been slamming it through 2x4. No complaints. I can shave a piece from the edge that's so thin you can see light through it. The cut side is so smooth it's like glass. This is framing lumber. These guys make pro tools (literally). What's the worst you've ever abused (or allowed someone to abuse) a Festool? I've seen some pictures. This will be able to handle that. If not, you've got the warranty. You probably won't end up returning it ten times I bet.

I did think of a complaint about it today while I was framing a wall to fit an existing opening. If I had a chance to make one complaint, I'd say it's almost too accurate. Stupid complaint, I know, but we're already reaching IMO. It encourages you to cut to the millimeter. I had trouble fitting in the frame I made for the top of the door RO because I made it fit the opening exactly. It was just over eight feet long, for you imperials. In the past, I would have cut a fractional measurement 'strong' or a bit shy, but still left wiggle room, maybe dropped a sixteenth in my mind, but I never was cutting with that much accuracy before. No measuring fence and no laser before. My mistake today was I stopped thinking about the actual fit because I've been so focused on reading the tape measures on the fence. I've never used a fence with a tape before, so maybe an incra is something super special. I've seen the accuracy of my work skyrocket since I started using these tools and this one is no exception to that statement. It was easy to fit the frame when we put it in square to the opening. You know what that means.

Okay, maybe one other complaint. I wish they put the laser button somewhere near the trigger. But maybe they put it over the top on the other side so you wouldn't hit it by accident. And you're never starting a cut while you're trying to turn it on, because it's a pain. That's a built-in safety feature! You'll have to admit, I'm really really trying to give somebody cause to not like the saw here.

I had a portamate stand on my last saw, and I hated that damn thing. Worked just okay when set up, but fell over when folded, there was no good way to stow it. I haven't really seen a stand I liked, I've had experience with two others. They all seemed pretty much the same to me. Where do you put down your tape? Your pencil? A cut list? I cut a nick in my speed square once with the old stand because I stuck it under the saw without thinking. There's room for all these and a covered cup of coffee on the table. I'll take the tradeoff of a lot of pieces (6, plus saw and MFT) for not only being able to break this fence down into easily stowed and moveable parts, but also, HELLO, you get another MFT work surface with the package. Is it me or do we all want a jumbo? You don't need one if you have two MFTs!

If you think the fence isn't for you, guess what? The height of the material cutting surface of the Kapex is pretty much exactly an MFT plus a SYS1 (or is it SYS2? anyway, a SYS will get you there).  We used it this way while waiting for the set parts to hit Australia. Did it work? Yes. Would I do it that way again? Why? I have the fence, and it's way better.

You can use it on the ground like this too. I'm done working that way, but you could.

The legs are a bit light. It is possible to kick them out of square. Having said that, I had a stack of 2x4 leaning against one side fence to grab from while I was banging out cuts. Using the fence they get cut really fast, no marking, no measuring after you set the flag. I've been caught there too, cutting a whole pile the wrong measurement because it's so easy to repetitively cut wood exactly. Lucky they were long for another measurement.

Dust. It catches most, it misses some. It depends on what you're cutting, and how fast you drop that saw. There is no airborne dust. There is usually some dust on the back of the saw and the MFT. Absent is the clouds of dust that I got with my old saw after the tiny bag was full and I yanked it off. It doesn't spray dust on the wall behind it. I guarantee you there was never a better setup for DC that you didn't build yourself.

I love the saw. I don't even let people look at mine, because I'm afraid they'll drool on it  :D. But I don't give it (or the one at work) baby treatment, any more than I would my other tools. Yes, I do dust them off before I put them away if I have time, and I do vac out the inside of the systainers every so often. I have been caught cleaning one off with a pack of baby wipes, so technically I guess that is baby treatment. I don't bounce the saw around in the back of a vehicle. In fact, the thing I love about these tools is that nothing bounces around in the back of a vehicle. I bought empty SYS for all my paint and plaster tools. My CO2 gas tank and nailers are in others. I don't like pawing through loose crap all sh!7piled on top of itself, it looks unprofessional and it's always a pain to get what you want. Plus right now I share a car with the rest of the family. I can use it for work and unload real fast and it's still clean. I used to have a crew cab dually. I fit everything I need in a Honda CRV now. Sure, I'll probably get a van or a ute (that's like an El Camino), but it works for now. Anyway, sorry about the rant, but it looks like everybody's just freaking out from Down Here.

Don't panic fellas. There's no bugs, no bullshit. It's a great tool, you'll have one soon, and it'll probably cost a lot less than mine did.
 
BTW, sorry. I did get carried away. To answer original post the main difference it does look like is duct collection. That Bosch looks really nice though. I like the four position handle.

Which reminds me of one other complaint. I did used to favor the horizontal style handle of some saws. Just seemed more ergonomic to me. But I'm totally into the Kapex and now I don't notice the handle any more.
 
Hi Bruce,

I was at the Editors' Event to celebrate the opening of the new Festool USA headquarters last week along with Gary Katz (of Katz Roadshow fame) and Mark Spagnuolo (of Woodwhisperer fame).  We were there to add a users POV to the discussions about Festool and its products.  One of the products shown was the US version of the Kapex so I had some hands on time with the machine. Not enough to reach a firm conclusion, but enough to make the following observations that may help answer some of your questions.

The light weight comes from good design, light weight magnesium construction and clever use of the machine's footprint, not from plastic parts.  It appears and feels very robustly built.  All of the base castings are deeply ribbed magnesium with bronze bearings for miter and bevel movements.  The table is held flat to the base via a stainless steel thrust bushing near the outer ring on the base.  You can't see this bushing on any but the cut away model, but it eliminates magnesium to magnesium wear movement.  The motor rides on fixed bars that protrude only from the rear of the saw forward.  Those bars are further apart than on other sliding compound miter saws and they are larger in diameter.  The linear bearing pack also appears longer than the others.  Because the bars do not have to protrude all the way across the front to back distance of the base they are shorter than on other saws, yet offer the same or greater net blade travel.  While this is basically a 10" saw, cutting specs are very nearly the same as for the very best of the 12" CMSs and actually longer than the worst.  The blade raises higher up and the space between the arbor and the fence is available for tall upright cuts to allow the cutting of very wide crown standing upright at the as-installed angle.  There are cam lock wings to extend the infeed and outfeed on which the upright crown stops slide for adjustment.

The trenching feature is quite slick and allows easy, precise height adjustment.  I think on-site half lap joints will become very popular for tricky framing applications.  Both lasers have three way adjustment screws so they can be dialed in to be right on either side of the blade kerf.  No way to know if they could easily be knocked off line by transport, but they do look to be well supported and not likely to move.  The bevel tilt is by far the slickest, easiest and most accurate I have seen.  The bevel protractor guide and pointer are around 8" from the pivot point so it is easy to see fractions of a degree either side.  On most other CMSs the bevel protractor is only a few inches from the pivot point and the degree marks are often cast in place and a degree or more wide so accurate side to side bevel movement is hard to get right or to repeat.  The bevel lock is a simple lever on the top of the machine that is easy to reach and sets without moving the bevel angle.  The head is spring balanced and there is a gear with a twist handle for really fine bevel settings.  As a result, you can quickly and very accurately move from left to right bevel angles and know that you will be bang on each side time after time.

The three saws I tried there all cut very precisely at all miter and bevel angles.  You can chop off four pieces of wide crown flat with a 45 degree bevel forming a point on all four pieces and they form a perfect square with no light showing through the stack from either end.  Very impressive.  There is no tendency of the saw to move side to side even when doing the sharpest bevel cuts, the Achilles heal of most CMSs that I have used.

For transport, the saw has a lock at full miter, designed-in hand holds and a nice cord wrap so you can carry it closer to your body and under far more control than the traditional CMS so it feels even lighter than it is, especially going up stairs, through doorways or down long narrow hall ways.  Since it sets up right against the wall it makes for an ideal hallway saw to handle long pieces either side of the saw.  It is designed to sit on top of and register into the holes of an MFT with positive knob lock down.  Deck height is the same as a Systainer so they can be used for outboard support. 

As a teaser, I am working on using the void space between two MFTs to hold a whole series of Festools stationary much like the stand based systems available in other parts of the world.  If this works out then simple brackets will slide into the T slots on the sides of two MFTs to hold things like the Kapex, router, jig saw and plane with deck height equal to the table surface for very long infeed and outfeed support.  Add a couple more tables or stands spaced further out and you could easily support 16' wiggly stuff like siding and long crown.

All in all, first impressions are very positive.  If you value precision, light weight and great dust collection, this will be a very hard saw to resist.  Some will complain about the vertical handle (which allows both right and left hand use) and I can hear the job site chatter about "mine is just as good and costs a lot less......", but I will bet that this is the one saw that will not be shared any more than one would toss the keys to a Porsche Turbo to their 16 year old with three walking-talking hormone friends and say "have fun".  Hope this helps.

Jerry

Brice Burrell said:
Lou, I agree, weight equals substantial construction, in turn means durably. How well the tool performs right out of the box is very important, but how it stands up the punishment of professional use is the real test. You guys that never have to take your tools out of the shop don't know how good you have it. The ware and tare that my tools receive just from transporting them everyday can exceeds that of the actual use. OK, that may be a bit of a stretch, but you get the point.

  I've looked as closely at pictures of the Kapex, looking at the design, as you can imagine, it is hard to see how well built the tool is. One thing of note is the fact the saw is smaller than the 12" saws I'm used to, that will account for some of the weight factor. Some of the question I have are: Does it have less metal and or more plastic than some of the other saws on the market? What kind of metal alloys are used and how will they hold up? Has Festool come up with a new design, with the Kapex, that is sturdy and still light weight? So far, I've read about a few people complaining about the initial build quality of the Kapex. I really don't know if their claims have merit or not. However, some owners commented on their lasers needing to be adjusted after transporting the saw to and from the job site a few times( I read this one a few times now and I believe it). I've not read about any other substantial issues with the Kapex's durability.

  I can tell you that when I get me hands on a Kapex you will see a review unlike any that are out there now. I will be looking at the design, construction, build quality and usefulness of the features for the perspective of a professional carpenter. I would like to focus on the design first, how does it differ form other saws, and is this new design a real improvement over the competitors? Next, build quality, are the tables truly coplanar, how accurate are the cuts and so on. Then the usefulness of the features like the lasers, the miter/bevel controls and of course the dust collection. I can't give anyone a useful comments on a race car, but I can (and will) give you meaningful opinions on a SCMS. My standards for a SCMS are very high, we will see if the Kapex is up to the task.
 
Jerry Work said:
.....As a teaser, I am working on using the void space between two MFTs to hold a whole series of Festools stationary much like the stand based systems available in other parts of the world.  If this works out then simple brackets will slide into the T slots on the sides of two MFTs to hold things like the Kapex, router, jig saw and plane with deck height equal to the table surface for very long infeed and outfeed support.  Add a couple more tables or stands spaced further out and you could easily support 16' wiggly stuff like siding and long crown.

This sounds very interesting, can't wait to see what you come up with.

Jerry Work said:
All in all, first impressions are very positive.  If you value precision, light weight and great dust collection, this will be a very hard saw to resist.  Some will complain about the vertical handle (which allows both right and left hand use) and I can hear the job site chatter about "mine is just as good and costs a lot less......", but I will bet that this is the one saw that will not be shared any more than one would toss the keys to a Porsche Turbo to their 16 year old with three walking-talking hormone friends and say "have fun".   Hope this helps.

Jerry

OK, thanks for taking the time to reply Jerry. I really do have high hopes for this saw.
 
And you seem not to have noticed yet, but everyone else calls me BRICE:D
 
Jerry Work said:
As a teaser, I am working on using the void space between two MFTs to hold a whole series of Festools stationary much like the stand based systems available in other parts of the world.  If this works out then simple brackets will slide into the T slots on the sides of two MFTs to hold things like the Kapex, router, jig saw and plane with deck height equal to the table surface for very long infeed and outfeed support.  Add a couple more tables or stands spaced further out and you could easily support 16' wiggly stuff like siding and long crown.

Jerry

Jerry,

How do you intend to keep the tables on the same plane? This seems like an outstanding idea. A series of jigs to hold each tool at the proper height is an outstanding idea, but without level floors....................

Mike
 
Eli said:
And you seem not to have noticed yet, but everyone else calls me BRICE:D

Eli, yeah being called the wrong name gets old, but between being called Bruce, Price and Steve, my twin brother's name, I'm used to it now.  :D
 
I haven't seen any mention of the Hitachi SCMS (10 or 12).  Are these just junk?  I know a couple of trim guys who use these and love them.  Any thoughts?
 
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