Kapex vs. ??????????????

Garry said:
I haven't seen any mention of the Hitachi SCMS (10 or 12).  Are these just junk?  I know a couple of trim guys who use these and love them.  Any thoughts?

Garry, I've not looked at one yet. I did read somewhere that the DC was pretty good compared to the other saw on the market here in the States.
 
Garry said:
I haven't seen any mention of the Hitachi SCMS (10 or 12).  Are these just junk?  I know a couple of trim guys who use these and love them.  Any thoughts?

The Hitachis are anything but junk. Well, the newer digital 12" SCMS "might" be, but the other ones are far from junk.

The new 12" with its digital readout has some issues. Supposedly, they are a lot of bugs with that saw.

I used a bunch of Hitcahi 10" saws over the years. They aren't quite as good as the current Makitas IMO, but they are still very good saws. I know a lot of guys that have been running trim for years with the 10" and 7-1/2" SCMS from Hitachi and they swear by them. They are a little lighter and the build quality isn't quite as good though. Most of the guys I know with them have had issues with the rails getting gunked up and then the saw losing accuracy because of it. In perfect running condition though, they are excellent.

This is just one person's opinion, but (Kapex excluded obviously) the best SCMSs on the market in the US right now are the Makita LS1214, the Makita LS1013, and then its a toss up between the Hitachi C10FSB and the Bosch 3915. Only problems with the Hitachi is the motor is slightly underpowered (not an issue if you're only running trim), the capacities could be better (it is a 10" saw after all), small work table, and there is some noticeable deflection when the saw is maxed out. There is almost no deflection for cuts that aren't close to being maxed out though, that's why its a great saw for running trim.  The Bosch 3915 probably should be 4th IMO because its only single bevel. Put a double bevel on the 3915 and I'd put it right next to the Makita LS1214.

Did you notice that I'm passionate about miter saws? :)
 
TahoeTwoBears said:
Hi folks,

Don't get me wrong, but I'm not aware of the advantages of the Kapex. Now, I'm a dyed in the wool Festoolian, but I'm hoping someone can explain the differences for me between a Kapex and my current CSMS which is the Bosch 5412L

I have read all the posts with interest and as an owner of a Kapex for a good few months thought I'd offer my 50 centimes (of a euro) worth

Firstly, I agree with "Chippy" that the add on rails are a bit flimsy - but they are designed to be easily transportable.

Secondly I, like another poster, think that the Festool jigsaw is a disappointment and normally reach for my Bosch, but the Kapex is better than my 2 Metabo's and the Bosch IMO.  I actually got rid of my 1 year old Metabo to buy the Kapex, which has a smaller capacity, but I had huge dust collection problems with the Metabo.

I worked on site in the US for a week with the Bosch - which is a good saw - but after the Kapex it seemed a bit "rustic".  At the risk of drawing fire from all off you in the US, it seemed more like old Detroit iron rather than something "engineered" from across the Rhine.  It was good enough for what we were doing (construction with 2 x 4's, CCA timber, floor joists and roofing), but I couldn't seem to get the laser to come on before I started the saw which seemed like an inherent design flaw and I was generally a bit "underwhelmed"

 
Before you guys ask, the Kapex laser is not powered by the spinning force of the blade. You turn it on with a button, and it has an auto shut off. I think it's 30 minutes.
 
Garry.

Once you've had black you never go back.

Once you've had Festool we find it very difficult to admit the shortcomings......it's the price we've paid I think!

The Hitachi SCMS is a fine piece of equipment. I bought one selected on merit rather than on colour and to have a matching box. It works brilliantly. I am sure there are better points on the Kapex. It's more than feasible that the Hitachi does some things better too. But when all's said and done they are both just freaking saws! And if you're using them to make a living like me you use the ones that are cost effective. At home the hobbyist does seem to me to become somewhat obsessed......apologies to you geeks out there.

So, in essence, if you're cutting your wood accurately (enough for whatever the job, we're none of us Chippendales?) then the saw is good.

Now when it comes to women that's a whole different ball game. That's the time to get a bit more choosy!
 
The Woodentop said:
I bought one ...... and to have a matching box.

What's that mean? I don't get it. What box, the box the saw came in?
 
Jerry Work said:
As a teaser, I am working on using the void space between two MFTs to hold a whole series of Festools stationary much like the stand based systems available in other parts of the world.  If this works out then simple brackets will slide into the T slots on the sides of two MFTs to hold things like the Kapex, router, jig saw and plane with deck height equal to the table surface for very long infeed and outfeed support.  Add a couple more tables or stands spaced further out and you could easily support 16' wiggly stuff like siding and long crown.

Jerry

Jerry,
Can you share any progress with us yet, or are you waiting for the MFT3's now?

Mike
 
No progress to report yet as I am still waiting for some additional "things" to integrate into the system.  My objective is to make this work with either the existing or the new tables.

Jerry

TahoeTwoBears said:
Jerry Work said:
As a teaser, I am working on using the void space between two MFTs to hold a whole series of Festools stationary much like the stand based systems available in other parts of the world.  If this works out then simple brackets will slide into the T slots on the sides of two MFTs to hold things like the Kapex, router, jig saw and plane with deck height equal to the table surface for very long infeed and outfeed support.  Add a couple more tables or stands spaced further out and you could easily support 16' wiggly stuff like siding and long crown.

Jerry

Jerry,
Can you share any progress with us yet, or are you waiting for the MFT3's now?

Mike
 
Kind of curious. I have a Makita LS1013 and am not impressed. The side supports that adjust outward are totally out of level with the top and there is no adjustment so I removed them. Well, I could have just beat on the bars or filed the tops off. I am constantly fighting the slider as when it is pulled all the way forward, it sticks and requires quite a bit of force to break loose. I have tried lubing and adjusting with no benefits at all. Yes, it cuts really nicely with the factory blade. When the Kapex comes out, if I am still needing a miter saw, the Makita will get replaced!!!
Pete
 
We also have the makita ls1013, and the side extensions were bent upward too, but I thought we did it ourselves by using them as carry-handles. The ls1013 doesn't stand up to transport abuse as well as the 1214, I think it's because of the longer handle for the miterlock, which stands out much further than the knob-style handle, and when it's been bent the loctite that holds the threaded rod to operate the miter- and slide-lock will loosen, thus losing it's function.

I have the Kapex for  a month now, and to compare the smoothness of the slide-action: It seems the makita slides smoother, but that is probably because when you let it go, it will slide back by itself; if you let go of the kapex, it will remain where it is. It also seems that the bearings make more noise when sliding, but that's just because they're closer to your ears.

In Holland the ls1013 came with the higher fence, a hold-down clamp and the extension rods as standard, even a metal folding table (back in 2001, so without the worklight and without the laser); but it almost costed the same as the kapex does now (the basic version).

The trenching feature of the ls1013 is pretty useless, because it's way too "bouncy" (there is a lot of play on the hinge for the wing-nut, and it's really close to the pivot point of the saw, so a little adjustment means a lot of extra cutting depth), and the hold-down clamp is more hassle than usefull. The hold-down clamp on the Kapex on the other hand is a joy the use, (works similar too the mft clamping elements) and is very easily swapped from left to right (just turn it towards the back and pull up).

I used the extension arms with the flip-stops for a small series of picture frame-like trim (replacing single pane glazing with insulated glazing in 8 tumble windows and a few doors), they worked great, but I was a bit annoyed because I had to move the work support bracket to the other side of the legs, to support the stock when it was still long (in the demonstration pics they appear to move the legs outward, but that seems even more annoying). So I got an extra set of support brackets, this way I can leave the legs at the end of the First (fixed)  part of the rail, and have the extra brackets on the short part of rail that can slide when the rail is extended, and still have support when the stock gets shorter.

Another thing is  that the kapex doesn't come with a dustbag, the first time I used the saw was for cutting fascia boards outside, and I didn't want to haul the vacuum with me, so the wind blew the sawdust in my face. I thought the dustbag meant for the ehl 650 planer would fit the kapex, but it doesn't  (the outside diameter of the dustport is slightly larger, and it won't fit.) I went back to the shop to find out if the one meant for the 850 planer would, but they advised strongly against using a dustbag with the kapex.

Frank-Jan
 
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