Lace in hardwood flooring challenges

[jarbroen]

I'll start this off by mentioning that I'm definitely not a pro.  I've installed a few hardwood floors in previous houses but this is the first time I've had to lace in.

The house is 20 years old and I'm working with 3/4" x 2 1/4" maple - grade 2.  A local supplier provided a great match.
I found some tips on how to layout and start the lace in.  Plenty of measuring, multiple string lines to double and triple check starter row.  And screwed down a straight plywood stop for the first row.

The challenge is fighting against compression.  The old boards unloaded are identical in width - 2 1/4".
However, when compressed over say a 29" span they have lost 1/4" in width.  Instead of 29 1/4" the span is 29" and a hair.
The problem is that my new boards aren't compressing as much as the old.  So now I'm almost 3' into my lace in and need to compensate for that 1/4" difference.

My dad, who is a long time remodel contractor, suggested wedges and prying to cram things in.  The problem is I still can't match how much the original floor was squished.  Even 1/32" times 20 adds up.  I'm using a Bostich air assist stapler.

One idea I had was to rip 3/16" off the back of an entire row and throw the boards on the router table to match the groove.
I might have to repeat this in another few feet when I can no longer just cram boards into the old. 
I'm 3' into a 8.5' wide job.

There are some smart(and experienced) fellers on this board.  I was hoping someone might have suggestions or caveats to be aware of.

p.s. on a Festool note - the TS75 with rail has been great at cutting out the old boards.  And keeping the dust to a minimum is much appreciated since I'm working inside the house.

 

[Cheese]

The challenge is fighting against compression.  The old boards unloaded are identical in width - 2 1/4".
However, when compressed over say a 29" span they have lost 1/4" in width.  Instead of 29 1/4" the span is 29" and a hair.
The problem is that my new boards aren't compressing as much as the old.  So now I'm almost 3' into my lace in and need to compensate for that 1/4" difference.

One idea I had was to rip 3/16" off the back of an entire row and throw the boards on the router table to match the groove.
I might have to repeat this in another few feet when I can no longer just cram boards into the old. 
I'm 3' into a 8.5' wide job.

I've never come across that issue before and I've had to weave in a lot of red oak flooring strips into 50 year old floors.  [tongue]

The idea of ripping 3/16" off the groove side makes sense to get your flooring courses back on track.

With that particular gun, you can "pack" the flooring strips tighter just by hitting the actuator harder. Even a .010" tighter pack per strip will add up to .160" (almost 3/16") over 16 strips, the equivalent of 3' of flooring width. It's an option you can play with.

 

[thudchkr]

Did you check the moisture content of the new flooring?  Compare it to the old flooring?  If it has a higher moisture content, it will expand a bit.  Especially with new flooring being at a different moisture than the old flooring.  If you had a way to decrease the moisture content of the new stuff, you might gain some space that way as well.  Might not be that easy to accomplish and if you did decrease the moisture content, may not make enough difference to matter. 

I'd take a cutoff end, put it into the oven and try decreasing the moisture in the board.  Measure the width before and after to see if you can make a difference.

Good luck.

 

[bertv]

I would add a slight bevel to the sides. Just a swipe or two with a block plane. No need to go all the way, use the tongue as support for the edge of the plane.

It’s all about optics.  [big grin]

 

[jarbroen]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate all the replies!

I feel silly saying this but I don't have a moisture meter.  I know, I should have one.  Especially since it's always the little details that screw me up. 

Like I said, Cheese, I'm a noob.  I learn as I go along and make plenty of mistakes.
I'll definitely try whacking the floor nailer harder.  I've been giving a solid hit but holding back a bit because I kept splitting the tongue.  Now I realize it would be better to split tongues than have a creeping line.
As my Dad would mockingly say 'hit it with your purse!'

I think I understand what you're saying Bert.  I'd have to bevel the bottom of the tongue side as well.  It hits against the bottom of the grooved side where I lace into the old flooring.  But that would give me an excuse to buy a new tool... lol  I still don't have any planes.
Or it's an excuse to figure out how to use my CMS-VL as a jointer.

I definitely want this to turn out looking more professional than 'home owner diy'.  It's the end of a long remodel project that started out as a simple deck board replacement...

 

[Cheese]

I feel silly saying this but I don't have a moisture meter.

Don’t feel too silly...I’ve been playing with lumber for 50 years and still don’t own a moisture meter.  [big grin]

When I install a floor, I’ll try to bring all the boxes of floor strips into the room I’m flooring. Open all of the boxes up and remove the strip flooring. Then let everything sit and acclimate both temp and moisture wise for 5-7 days.

 

[jarbroen]

That's good advice.  The boards sat in the room for a couple weeks before I started the install.  I had to get motivated.  lol

I setup my CMS last night and it works pretty well as a jointer.  Had a couple longer ones that did the opposite of sniping on the end but a knife fixed those spots.  Also used the CMS to route the groove deeper.
Got my slimmed down row in and one more.  Looks like it's lining up which is good.
This time I gave the nailer a hearty whack.

I appreciate all the suggestions.  Sometimes I just need a little motivation/encouragement.