MTbassbone
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Limitations of OF1010
- Thread starter MTbassbone
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Michael Kellough
Member
Can you even buy a lock miter bit with an 8mm shank? Such a bit with a 1/4” shank would be something thoughtlessly produced in China and would be dangerous.
MTbassbone
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Michael Kellough
Member
Adjusting a lock miter bit is fairly difficult. There are lock miter bit sets for which setting blocks are produced that make the process easier, but those sets have 1/2” shanks. Consider buying a Bosch 1/2” router and a medium priced router table and leave the whole setup as is after getting it dialed in.
Michael Kellough
Member
Cool bit! I didn’t know about it.
However, the OF1010 is not easy to adjust while inverted. Not impossible but it would make a difficult process even more difficult.
However, the OF1010 is not easy to adjust while inverted. Not impossible but it would make a difficult process even more difficult.
luvmytoolz
Member
+1 for this!
I've only played with lock mitre bits enough to find they can be a lesson in futility. Quite painful to dial in without the special guide setter.
MTbassbone
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luvmytoolz
Member
Came up with an access denied error for me, is this more of the "keep those damn Aussies out" mentality from US suppliers? ;-)
MTbassbone
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Michael Kellough
Member
Looks adequate. The fence is taller than expected which will be helpful. You'll have to work on getting the router plate flush with the surface.
A review, "Great router table, havent dropped the 400$ on the adjustable bosch router yet but my dewalt 616 works great with it! Just completed a bunch of lock mitred beams and even with the huge 3-1/2 " bit this table handled everything."
A review, "Great router table, havent dropped the 400$ on the adjustable bosch router yet but my dewalt 616 works great with it! Just completed a bunch of lock mitred beams and even with the huge 3-1/2 " bit this table handled everything."
Michael Kellough
Member
It’s a lot easier to do the adjustments when you start with one of the ready made jigs that match the bit, like the one mentioned above from Infinity, but there isn’t a good place to put the jig on that Bosch table as delivered. None the less the guy quoted above managed to get it done so you could too.
I’d seriously consider buying an inexpensive router lift from Alibaba to fit whatever 1/2” router you choose (a fence from there too, taller the better) then make a simple stand to hold the stuff from mdf or melamine covered p.b.
I mentioned the Bosch router before because they make (hopefully still do) an $50 inversion base which makes height adjustment under the table almost as good as using a $300 router lift. With that you could build a simple inexpensive one purpose rig you could devote to lock miters. You still have to fine tune the settings to accommodate minute changes in material thickness but you’d always be in the ballpark.
But again, you could make the readymade Bosch rig work.
I’d seriously consider buying an inexpensive router lift from Alibaba to fit whatever 1/2” router you choose (a fence from there too, taller the better) then make a simple stand to hold the stuff from mdf or melamine covered p.b.
I mentioned the Bosch router before because they make (hopefully still do) an $50 inversion base which makes height adjustment under the table almost as good as using a $300 router lift. With that you could build a simple inexpensive one purpose rig you could devote to lock miters. You still have to fine tune the settings to accommodate minute changes in material thickness but you’d always be in the ballpark.
But again, you could make the readymade Bosch rig work.
Packard
Member
I bought a lock miter bit years ago. The setup was so tedious that I never used it again. And I have not seen it in a while. I’m not even sure I could find it.
As an aside, my first router “table” was simply a 3’x 4’ x 3/4” sheet of plywood resting on two saw horses. I thinned out the mounting area to about 1/4” and drilled a hole for the router shaft. A smooth transition because there was no router plate. A router plate would probably be easier to make. The fence was just a piece of straight lumber C-clamped in place. It Stored easily and transported easily. I retired it when I integrated a router into my table saw extension.
As an aside, my first router “table” was simply a 3’x 4’ x 3/4” sheet of plywood resting on two saw horses. I thinned out the mounting area to about 1/4” and drilled a hole for the router shaft. A smooth transition because there was no router plate. A router plate would probably be easier to make. The fence was just a piece of straight lumber C-clamped in place. It Stored easily and transported easily. I retired it when I integrated a router into my table saw extension.
Cheese
Member
FWIW...this Festool rebating head was made to be used in the 1010 router. The head has a cutting height of 30mm and the OD is 50mm. So this rebating head is considerably larger than the lock miter bit, however it is aluminum.
Once you get everything set up properly, don't forget to run a piece through that you can mark and then use as a guide/jig/fixture for the next time around.
Once you get everything set up properly, don't forget to run a piece through that you can mark and then use as a guide/jig/fixture for the next time around.
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Sparktrician
Member
That's the truth! That said, I made a pair of templates made of UHMW plastic for setups that have worked well over time.
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