Lock miters with the 2200

[tjbnwi]

Had to create a lock miter on a 4x8x3/4 sheet of plywood. Easy with the 2200.
=em-upload_owner

Tom

 

[tiralie]

Impressive. Is it the camera view or are you climb cutting that, and if so why?
Tim

 

[tjbnwi]

Impressive. Is it the camera view or are you climb cutting that, and if so why?
Tim

Don't think so, I guess I should check the bit rotation.

Tom

 

[MrToolJunkie]

It looks like a climb cut since you are pulling the router. Impressive cut none-the-less. I love that router too -- my favorite and super smooth.

 

[Bohdan]

It looks like a climb cut since you are pulling the router. Impressive cut none-the-less. I love that router too -- my favorite and super smooth.

He is pulling the router but it is not a climb cut. Would have been nicer if the hose didn't get blocked by all the sawdust.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

It looks like a climb cut since you are pulling the router. Impressive cut none-the-less. I love that router too -- my favorite and super smooth.

He is pulling the router but it is not a climb cut. Would have been nicer if the hose didn't get blocked by all the sawdust.

I stand corrected - if pushing in that orientation it would have been a climb cut. Still impressive.

 

[Holmz]

I always go left->right on the front.

Usually the router fly out of the paws if/when it is a climb cut.

 

[ear3]

I've never actually had to employ a lock miter bit, but that's great to know it could be used outside of the table, thanks [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] Couple of questions:

1) Is it absolutely essential to use both the rail AND the fence here?

2) Is the backside of the fence (the side furthest away from you) still riding on any material, or does the lock mitre eat away the edge a couple of milimeters (which I guess would explain the need for the rail).

Final comment -- it is my experience with large profiling bits on the 1400, where you have to use that clear plastic attachment on the fence, that a lot of dust still gets generated.  Maybe the same thing obtains on the 2200, since the lock mitre just functions here as a large diameter profiling bit, which is eating away material relatively far from any hose or enclosed area. 

BTW -- I'd be interested to see if the joint still fits in the place where you rocked the machine to de-and reattach the hose  [tongue]

 

[rizzoa13]

How do you like that infinity jig tom? I was looking at it and it sure looks useful.

 

[tjbnwi]

Looked at the bit rotation---it was not a climb cut.

I thought the dust collection was pretty bad as I was cutting, clean up was minimal, just a light layer on the floor below the cut.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

I've never actually had to employ a lock miter bit, but that's great to know it could be used outside of the table, thanks [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] Couple of questions:

1) Is it absolutely essential to use both the rail AND the fence here?

2) Is the backside of the fence (the side furthest away from you) still riding on any material, or does the lock mitre eat away the edge a couple of milimeters (which I guess would explain the need for the rail).

Final comment -- it is my experience with large profiling bits on the 1400, where you have to use that clear plastic attachment on the fence, that a lot of dust still gets generated.  Maybe the same thing obtains on the 2200, since the lock mitre just functions here as a large diameter profiling bit, which is eating away material relatively far from any hose or enclosed area. 

BTW -- I'd be interested to see if the joint still fits in the place where you rocked the machine to de-and reattach the hose  [tongue]

No it is not absolutely necessary to use both the fence and the rail. I used the rail more for stability with this long of a cut.

If the bit is properly set, the edge of the work piece is not removed, just shaped. It is no different than using just a fence on the CMS.

The dust was not as bad as I thought it was.

That move was me garnering information.

Not sure--I'm removing the clamps this morning. I'll take a picture.

When ever I do solid to plywood lock miters I leave the solid 1/32-1/16 proud of the plywood face, once sand you can't see it. I find this protects the veneer edge.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

How do you like that infinity jig tom? I was looking at it and it sure looks useful.

One set up and done. Best and fastest method to set the miter lock bit I have ever seen or used. Worth every penny and then some.

For those who have never used a miter lock bit setting them up can be time consuming and frustrating. Both the height and the fence position must be perfect for you the produce good joints. Problem is, if your test pieces are off which one do you adjust and how much?

Tom

 

[Michael Kellough]

The thickness of the material must be consistent, mainly because the router registers off the bottom but the joint is appraised from the top (of the material, outside of the joint). Some plywood isn't consistent enough.

 

[tjbnwi]

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]

The rock did damage the veneer.

Second photo is how the rest of the joint looks.

Third photo is how tight the joint is. It also shows the 1/16" of sold I leave to protect the veneer.

Tom

 

[greg mann]

How did you machine the hardwood since it needs to be oriented 90 degrees to the plywood presentation? I don't see how you could do that very well handheld. Router table?

That said, The added advantage of not taking the hardwood to a sharp edge is that it is less likely to collapse as it starts taking the weight of the workpiece as it passes the bit. I like the idea of using the guide rail for the horizontal cut. Once you have the offset dialed in you could conceivably remove the router fence. The knife edge has always been my nemesis. The guide rail protects one cut and the thicker corner protects the other. I might need to dust off my lock-miter bits. Very cool and thanks, Tom.

 

[tjbnwi]

[member=22]greg mann[/member]

The solids were done on the CMS, with the piece vertical.

Both the hardwood and plywood were taken to a knife edge. Instead of using a solid piece to align the bit I used a piece of plywood. This caused the knife edge to be proud of the face of the plywood. I sanded the edge to align with the face of the plywood.

If you are breaking out the lock miter bit get the Infinity jig, they work on any brand bit. The is a large and small jig, get the one for the bit you have.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

The damage veneer repair with stain and finish.

2 tint attempts to get the color matched. Not to bad for an old blind guy [wink]

Tom

 

[Billedis]

Good match on the stain, but the door fit is a little off!      [poke]

 

[tjbnwi]

Good match on the stain, but the door fit is a little off!      [poke]

I'll let the homeowner know they supplied the wrong size door.

Tom

 

[joiner1970]

That 2200 just fly's along, didn't sound like it struggled at any stage [emoji3]

I've yet to use my 2200 properly on a job, I can't wait. It makes my old Dewalt 626 look tiny lol