Logic behind what rails to buy and when

tjacks66

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Jul 29, 2013
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Is there a preferred combination of rail lengths that would allow for ripping and cross cutting 4 x 8 sheets, as well as using the LR 32 system, etc? Also, is it preferable to buy full length rails vs. joining them with connectors?

I am trying to lay out my future purchases as I work on building my Festool collection. I have the Carvex now, but not the TS55 yet, so I'm wondering what length rail would I should get now for the Carvex so I don't have a redundant rail when I get the track saw in the future. I want to be able to rip and cross cut 4 x 8 sheets, as we'll as add the LR32 system in the future.
 
I have the 55" LR32 and the 75".  I will add the 118" as my next rail and for the most part that is pretty good.  i could se using some shorter ones in the future for sure.  I would say those 3 rails would be my base.  Sounds like lots of guys just have a couple of 55" rails, but i really find that 75 so useful.  I can also easily rip 10' when connected.  All that to say connecting kinda sucks but works fine, i am for sure a fan of different length rails vs. multiples of the same size. 
 
I have 2 55" rails, a 75" rail, the rail that is on the MFT/3 and a 42" Holey rail.  I would recommend the Betterley connector.  I don't have good room for the longer rails.  If I was to do it over, I would take the 55" rail and ask your dealer to replace with the 75" and then buy the 55" Holey rail.
 
I have the 55 LR32, regular 55 and a 118.  My plan is to get rid of the regular 55, keep the 55 LR32, add a 75 LR32, and keep the 118.  I always try to avoid connecting rails if I can.  Not sure if that combo would work for you, but it might.
 
For the TS55 ideally you want to use a 55" rail for your 4' runs & a 106" rail for 8' runs. You can also go with connecting two 55" rails (with a pair of connectors) in place of the 106". With your interest in the LR32 it sounds like you'd want the holey rail for your 55". Myself & other dealers will allow you to substitute another rail for the standard 55" which comes with the TS55.
 
I have the room to store the rails, so that's not an issue. And I don't need to move them off site either. Sounds like getting longer rails without the connectors might be the way to go.
 
Also curious to know, how would you change your recommendations if I went with the TS 75? I assume I could go with longer lengths that would meet TS 75 requirements and also use them for a TS 55, is that correct?
 
jlyons said:
All that to say connecting kinda sucks but works fine, i am for sure a fan of different length rails vs. multiples of the same size.  

That's a good way to put it! While connecting rails does work fine it sure is quicker having a longer rail around. Especially if you're not moving them off site, tjack.

With the TS75 you typically want the 75" rail for 4' cuts & the 118" for 8' cuts. You may want to go a different route though with your interest in the LR32. Holey rails come in 55" & 95".
 
tjacks66 said:
Also curious to know, how would you change your recommendations if I went with the TS 75? I assume I could go with longer lengths that would meet TS 75 requirements and also use them for a TS 55, is that correct?

Yes, you absolutely need longer rails to cut the same length as the 55.  I believe the TS75 comes with a 75 rail.  IMO, unless you really need the extra cutting depth, I would not recommend a TS75.  The TS55req has slightly better dust collection and is much easier to pick up and move around than the TS75.  TS75 also has fewer blades with the same kerf width, so if you get a 3-4 different blades, your track's lip will eventually not be zero clearance with one or more of the blades.  There's no good way around this other than moving that lip over, re-cutting to get a zero clearance, and repeat once you switch to a different kerf blade.  This is mostly eliminated with the TS55 barring a couple of the not often used blades.
 
If the TS-55 came without a rail and then you had to buy it separately I would go for a 75" rail.  Idiot proof within reasonn on crosscuts in 48" material.  Then I would get a 118" so that I could cut longwise and also have some play to use the parallel guides.  If I thought I was going to use a TS-75 in the future I would be set.  If I decided to go the LR-32 route I would add the 55" rail with holes.  

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
If the TS-55 came without a rail and then you had to buy it separately I would go for a 75" rail.

I had a discussion last week with a dealer in my area and he said that they can replace the rail that comes with the saw with another model. In my case I switched the standard rail for a holey rail. So if you are purchasing a saw and want a different rail, ask. You will probably just have to pay the difference between the two rails if you were to purchase then separately.
 
+2 what Peter said.
I have a 42&55 LR 32 and  a 75&118" reg. rail
I use the 75 for most cuts with either the TS 55 or TS 75
I do like the smallness of the 42 which I purchase for the LR 32
Good luck
Rick
 
I was thinking of the TS75 for building some thick rustic table tops - I'll need to take a closer look and compare the cutting depths between the two saws.
 
Here ya go...

TS55 Cutting Depths:
1-15/16" straight down
1-7/16" at 45-degrees
2-1/8" straight down

TS75 Cutting Depths:
2-3/4" straight down
2-1/8" at 45-degrees
2-15/16" without rail
 
I have the 42" on my MFT
55" LR 32, 75" and 118"
Maybe at some point I would get another 55" LR 32
 
rail connectors are great for occasional use, but the long rail for 8' cuts is far better for frequent use and essential for any professional work with sheet goods.
 
I bought the 55" Holey rail with my TS 75, even though it's not ideal for 4' cuts. I also bought the 96" (almost) Holey rail at the same time. I later - after needing to do an 8' cut - added the 118" rail.

I haven't yet needed a 75" rail, but i am not ruling out getting one.
 
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