LR 32 - Sys Hole Drilling System

[Paul Franklin]

This is a conversation that me and David Ronyak have been having via email and we thought others would like to join in.
Thanks David

Paul,

Thanks for the info.  Very nice work.  My wife would be delighted if I would get my shop and tools organized.

I have been wondering whether or not to buy the hole drilling system  at approx. $450 including short guide rail with holes or one of the jigs available from Rockler's, Woodcrafter's and such for about $50 to 60 including a router bit.

David

Thanks. An organized shop is good, but rarely happens.
I like the 32mm kit, but I must admit when I make bookcases and cabinets that need shelf holes, I like to build them and finish them then drill the holes, I saves cleaning out all the holes after. So what I do is I use the 32mm system kit to make templates from 1/4" ply and use the 5mm drill bit from festool  (492522) I can then cut the templates to different lengths as needed. You can't do that with the Rockler one. Maybe I am just odd the way I do things, but it works for me.

Hope this helps. Kind Regards

Paul

Thanks, Paul.

Maybe it is better to take this discussion back to festoolownersgroup for all to join in and benefit.

I understand the risk of clogging the holes with finish if they are machined prior to application of finish.

But my ignorance is preventing me from understanding why a person could not use any of the Rockler et al templates, whether designed for a drill motor or a router, on a pre-finished workpiece, and why you find it preferable (necessary?) to create a custom template.  Wouldn't that always be the situation when prefrinished plywood was used as is very common in building cabinets today?  I have drilled holes both before and after finish (sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer or sprayed polyurethane varnish) have been applied, using my Shopsmith as a drill press.

There are varying degrees of organization.  I am probably below the low end of the spectrum right now, with tools in at least 3 different basement rooms and my garage, and began my Festool addiction only a little over a year ago.

Dave Ronyak

 

[Lou Miller]

I have the LR32 and think its an awesome addition to my tool lineup. I didn't bother buying the whole kit though. I just don't have a need for 5mm bits and didn't need the 35mm bit either.

I bought this:http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/...d=f3c3c1530a816f606cdf657305c66826&pid=583290

then added a systainer and a rail.

The difference between making shelf holes with this thing compared to using a jig for a drill is pretty substantial. You get far cleaner holes with a router and the LR-32 is a piece of cake to use. I personally drill all the holes before finishing and never have a problem. I think it looks a lot better if you finish afterwards too.

Just my opinion...

 

[Jerry Work]

Hi Paul,

My take on this issue is precision and speed.  Shelf support holes do no good at all if they are not perfectly aligned top to bottom on all four locations on the inside of a carcass.  Off a little bit on any one and your shelves will rock and tip.  So, why bother to do it at all if you cannot be assured of prefect alignment?  Use some other shelf support method that doesn't require this kind of precision.  If, like me, you do use the 32mm shelf hole system, you can knock out all four hole sets in just a few moments with absolute confidence that they will be spot on.  I know the arguement that goes something like, "I am a hobbiest and time is not really critical so why do I need something that expensive when I could get by (maybe) with something cheaper.......".  My answer would be, why are you building in the first place if not for the fun and satisfaction of doing it right and doing it with pride in the outcome?  If you want a consistent outcome, use a consistent process and tooling.  So, back to the opening comment - precision is important whether you are doing it professionally or as a hobbiest - speed is important in both cases as well, but is financially critical for the professional.  Five years from now you will not remember what you spent on the tooling or the process, but fifty years from now you and/or your childern will still be living with the tippy shelves if your process lacks the proper precision.  Hope this helps.

Jerry

This is a conversation that me and David Ronyak have been having via email and we thought others would like to join in.
Thanks David

Paul,

Thanks for the info.   Very nice work.   My wife would be delighted if I would get my shop and tools organized.

I have been wondering whether or not to buy the hole drilling system  at approx. $450 including short guide rail with holes or one of the jigs available from Rockler's, Woodcrafter's and such for about $50 to 60 including a router bit.

David

Thanks. An organized shop is good, but rarely happens.
I like the 32mm kit, but I must admit when I make bookcases and cabinets that need shelf holes, I like to build them and finish them then drill the holes, I saves cleaning out all the holes after. So what I do is I use the 32mm system kit to make templates from 1/4" ply and use the 5mm drill bit from festool  (492522) I can then cut the templates to different lengths as needed. You can't do that with the Rockler one. Maybe I am just odd the way I do things, but it works for me.

Hope this helps. Kind Regards

Paul

Thanks, Paul.

Maybe it is better to take this discussion back to festoolownersgroup for all to join in and benefit.

I understand the risk of clogging the holes with finish if they are machined prior to application of finish.

But my ignorance is preventing me from understanding why a person could not use any of the Rockler et al templates, whether designed for a drill motor or a router, on a pre-finished workpiece, and why you find it preferable (necessary?) to create a custom template.  Wouldn't that always be the situation when prefrinished plywood was used as is very common in building cabinets today?  I have drilled holes both before and after finish (sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer or sprayed polyurethane varnish) have been applied, using my Shopsmith as a drill press.

There are varying degrees of organization.  I am probably below the low end of the spectrum right now, with tools in at least 3 different basement rooms and my garage, and began my Festool addiction only a little over a year ago.

Dave Ronyak

 

[3mbjts]

Can anyone tell me what the operating tool is, in the Hole drilling system set LR-32-SYS?
I'm trying to decide on which set to get.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[Jim McFarland]

I believe the reference is to a 5mm hex tool included with the kit.  Used to tighten edge guide.  I would probably get the individual components rather than the kit if I had it to do again.  I use a drill press for 35mm hinge holes so didn't really need the 35mm boring bit --- that said, check some of Brice's posts -- I believe he uses and recommends.  I also use 1/4" shelf pins (have several leftovers!) a lot so have to add 1/4" bit anyway.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Can anyone tell me what the operating tool is, in the Hole drilling system set LR-32-SYS?
I'm trying to decide on which set to get.
Thanks,
Mike

 I too saw this "operating tool" on the McFeely's site, this is a mistake. The LR32-SYS doesn't come with an operating tool. Here is a link to the Festool USA site, LR32-SYS you can clearly see no operating tool mentioned in the description.

I got just the stops and the guide plate in the, Hole drilling set, OF1010/1400. I then add the bits I wanted and a systainer #1 with the diced foam insert. I already had clamps and at the time didn't want the bits in the SYS package. If you have any more questions, ask away.

Jim you beat me to it. Like Jim, I used to drill the hinge cup on a drill press and use 1/4" shelf pins. I have since changed over to 5mm screws and shelf pins. I also find the LR32 to be a little easier than a drillpress. And yes, I now use the Festool bits, the 35mm hinge cup bit and the 5mm brad point bit. Very nice bits.

 

[brandon.nickel]

I've been using the LR32 for shelf-pin holes as well as hinge cup drilling.  Just make sure that you set the OF1400 down to speed "1" and even then I get some slight burning.  Also, make sure you set your depth stop before you dive into the wood.  I almost ruined a new, just-finished oak stereo cabinet door last weekend.  Seemed like it was taking a long time to drill the hole so I stopped to check with less than 1/16" of wood under the tip of the bit.  You'll also need the centering mandrel for lining up the plate on the bottom of the router.  There's enough play in the plate and the screws to make it inconsistant otherwise.

 

[3mbjts]

Thanks Guys,
I think I'm leaning toward buying the system separately.
Mike

 

[Brice Burrell]

.......Just make sure that you set the OF1400 down to speed "1" and even then I get some slight burning.........

That's true, the Festool 35mm bit is very aggressive, it is meant to be used at a slower speed. Almost like a drill bit, you wouldn't run a 35mm bit in the drill press at 20,000 rpm. 

........Also, make sure you set your depth stop before you dive into the wood.  I almost ruined a new, just-finished oak stereo cabinet door last weekend.  Seemed like it was taking a long time to drill the hole so I stopped to check with less than 1/16" of wood under the tip of the bit........ 

I've never done that. 

........You'll also need the centering mandrel for lining up the plate on the bottom of the router.  There's enough play in the plate and the screws to make it inconsistant otherwise.

Brandon, my 1400 has no play, I don't use the centering mandrel with the 1400. The small amount of play you have likely doesn't matter, I bet it might only produce less than 1 mm error or so. That error would be on the distance from the edge of the stock to your hole(s), not on the 32mm spacing. No problem for shelf pins and hinge bases. Maybe on system holes for drawer slides, but I doubt it. Give it a try on some scrap. You definitely need the centering mandrel with the OF1010.

3m, sounds like you could use the hole drilling set, part #583290, the one I bought. It comes with the guide plate, side stops, end stops and the centering mandrel. You will also need a rail with the holes, bits, some clamps and a router is a good idea. Good luck, let us know what you get and pictures of your first project.

 

[3mbjts]

Brice,
I will let you know once I put my order together. I am four months new to this forum and already have slipped down the Festool slippery mountain. I have been upgradeing my arsenal of tools ever since the Festool demo I saw at my local Woodworking Show this year. Need more time to make all the projects on the todo list. This forum is great and loaded with a wealth of info. Computers are my weakness, but learning quickly.
Thanks.
MIke 

 

[Les]

Brandon, my 1400 has no play, I don't use the centering mandrel with the 1400. The small amount of play you have likely doesn't matter, I bet it might only produce less than 1 mm error or so. That error would be on the distance from the edge of the stock to your hole(s), not on the 32mm spacing. No problem for shelf pins and hinge bases. Maybe on system holes for drawer slides, but I doubt it. Give it a try on some scrap. You definitely need the centering mandrel with the OF1010.

Have you used the 32mm system for drawer slides? Did you use a spacer block? With the accuracy required and the distance between the mounting holes, it would have been nice if Festool supplied longer lengths of rods.

 

[Brice Burrell]

  Les, I've use the system holes on drawer slides before. But I only when the option to move the drawer is needed (adjustable height drawers), like in a pantry, or closet drawer unit. Then I just drill two sets of holes, front and back. Then on site drill the rest of the holes with a drill and vixbit only in the locations of the installed drawers. If the drawers need to be moved, new holes will have to be drilled. With this approach, I only need to accurately lay out two sets of holes instead of 3 or 4 sets.

Longer side stops would be a good addition to the LR32.