LR32 and Cabinet Door Reveals

[mculik5]

I'm considering purchasing Festool's LR32 system for some upcoming DIY projects. I'm planning to build a media cabinet, some cabinets for my garage, and some closet built-ins. From what I've read, all of these things are great applications for the LR32 system and 32mm cabinet-making in general.

I've read (and watched) a lot about 32mm cabinet-making, and understand the general concept. However, there is one part I'm still very confused about - cabinet door reveals.

I'll use a really simple cabinet as my example. The cabinet itself will be 18" W x 608mm (~24") H x 12" D. 3/4" plywood will be used for construction. Based on everything I've read, the standard practice is to fit the top and bottom panels between (not on top of/below) the side panels. This makes sense from an aesthetics perspective, as it avoids a front-to-back line on the side of the cabinet.

Because 608mm is a multiple of 32, I can easily use the LR32 guide rail and stop blocks to drill my holes.

A full overlay cabinet door for this cabinet would have dimensions 18" W x 608mm H. However - and here is where it gets confusing - what if I want a 3mm reveal all the way around the door? That would result in cabinet door dimensions of 451mm W x 602mm H.  Because 602mm is not a multiple of 32, I can't use the guide rail with the stop blocks. If I did, my cabinet door holes would be 3mm above/below (depending on which edge I used) where I need them to be.

How is the handled? Does Festool have a jig solution, or do I just need to manually line up the guide rail? Are reveals uncommon on frameless cabinet doors? Maybe my thinking is off, because I haven't been able to find any information about this, and would like to know before I dive in head first with a big tool purchase.

Thanks for any info you can provide!

Also, unrelated question... All the videos I've seen of 32mm cabinet-making use full overlay plywood for doors. Is there any reason I can't make stile and rail doors and use the LR32 on the hinge-side stile?

Thanks again!

 

[tiralie]

Welcome to the FOG

A full overlay cabinet door for this cabinet would have dimensions 18" W x 608mm H. However - and here is where it gets confusing - what if I want a 3mm reveal all the way around the door? That would result in cabinet door dimensions of 451mm W x 602mm H.  Because 602mm is not a multiple of 32, I can't use the guide rail with the stop blocks. If I did, my cabinet door holes would be 3mm above/below (depending on which edge I used) where I need them to be.

Cut the door height to the 32mm unit closest to the final size and trim after drilling the hinge cup within your final dimensions. The vertical door reveal is dictated by the hinge manufacturers offset directions and the final size of your door.

Also, unrelated question... All the videos I've seen of 32mm cabinet-making use full overlay plywood for doors. Is there any reason I can't make stile and rail doors and use the LR32 on the hinge-side stile?

No reason.
Tim

 

[greg mann]

+1

Another example would be inset doors. In this case a 3mm gap around the door would need to be compensated for. I have only done a few but I made the door to the same size as the opening. I do my drilling for shelf-pins (which become the hinge mounting holes) and drill for the hige cups using the same reference start point. (This was not the point at which I bumped the guiderail stop up against but it was the point from which I did my math. Hope that makes sense.) I then trimmed the doors to achieve the gap I wanted for the inset. You could use a shim to compensate for your reveal amount but I prefer Tim's approach to get where you want to be. A lot of folks like to trim the top and bottom of frame and panel doors anyway, just to guarantee nice smooth joints and to make sure the door is square and at a perfect size. Often, there is a profile added to the periphery of F&P doors so it makes even more sence to trim beforehand.

 

[mculik5]

Thanks, Tim. Did you mean the horizontal reveal is dictated by the hinge manufacturer's offset directions?

If I understand what you are saying correctly, the steps for making the door for my sample cabinet would be:

1. Cut a panel (or design the stile and rail setup to be) 451mm W (includes reveal, actual width for full overlay is 457mm) x 608mm H.
2. Drill the necessary holes using the LR32 per the manufacturers directions for offsets, diameters, depths, etc. for a 3mm horizontal reveal.
3. Trim 3mm from the top and bottom of the door.
4. Put everything together.

Does that sound correct? Really appreciate the help.

 

[bruegf]

I just use a shim the thickness of the reveal and place between the end of the panel and the stop on the LR32.

Fred

 

[cliffp]

I just use a shim the thickness of the reveal and place between the end of the panel and the stop on the LR32

I did the same (using a feeler gauge) and it was perfect.

 

[semenza]

I'm considering purchasing Festool's LR32 system for some upcoming DIY projects. I'm planning to build a media cabinet, some cabinets for my garage, and some closet built-ins. From what I've read, all of these things are great applications for the LR32 system and 32mm cabinet-making in general.

I've read (and watched) a lot about 32mm cabinet-making, and understand the general concept. However, there is one part I'm still very confused about - cabinet door reveals.

I'll use a really simple cabinet as my example. The cabinet itself will be 18" W x 608mm (~24") H x 12" D. 3/4" plywood will be used for construction. Based on everything I've read, the standard practice is to fit the top and bottom panels between (not on top of/below) the side panels. This makes sense from an aesthetics perspective, as it avoids a front-to-back line on the side of the cabinet.

Because 608mm is a multiple of 32, I can easily use the LR32 guide rail and stop blocks to drill my holes.

A full overlay cabinet door for this cabinet would have dimensions 18" W x 608mm H. However - and here is where it gets confusing - what if I want a 3mm reveal all the way around the door? That would result in cabinet door dimensions of 451mm W x 602mm H.  Because 602mm is not a multiple of 32, I can't use the guide rail with the stop blocks. If I did, my cabinet door holes would be 3mm above/below (depending on which edge I used) where I need them to be.

How is the handled? Does Festool have a jig solution, or do I just need to manually line up the guide rail? Are reveals uncommon on frameless cabinet doors? Maybe my thinking is off, because I haven't been able to find any information about this, and would like to know before I dive in head first with a big tool purchase.

Thanks for any info you can provide!

Also, unrelated question... All the videos I've seen of 32mm cabinet-making use full overlay plywood for doors. Is there any reason I can't make stile and rail doors and use the LR32 on the hinge-side stile?

Thanks again!

Hi,

  Welcome to the forum ! [smile]

Those guys above have you on the right track with either shimming or trimming the doors.

Seth

 

[Sparktrician]

I cut several 1.5mm shims from a block of UHMW plastic that I had previously used to make setup blocks for my raised panel door router bits.  I place one at each end of the door panel between the stops and the door panel.  This allows for 1.5mm reveal on each side of the door or drawer face, resulting in 3mm between adjoining doors or drawers. 

 

[sancho57]

I just use a shim the thickness of the reveal and place between the end of the panel and the stop on the LR32.

Fred

This what I do to. I learned this from Steve in a End User Class. I keep a small piece of hardwood in my LR32 systainer just for this .

 

[mculik5]

Thanks for the help, all. Feeling pretty silly that I didn't think of shimming on my own. Makes perfect sense. Appreciate all the responses.

 

[sancho57]

Dont feel silly. I didnt think about it until Steve showed it in the 3rd class I took

 

[tiralie]

I just use a shim the thickness of the reveal and place between the end of the panel and the stop on the LR32.

Fred

This what I do to. I learned this from Steve in a End User Class. I keep a small piece of hardwood in my LR32 systainer just for this .

Definitely better than my suggestion.
Tim