LR32 capability with tall cabinet

[TinyShop]

[member=69760]Lincoln[/member] - That's certainly one way to go about it and would be well worth the small increased use of material. Thanks for the guidance!  

That said, I'm hoping to keep the seamless look of full uninterrupted panels on both sides of the cabinet so I'll likely stick with an approach that allows for that.

And, actually, while writing this just now it occurred to me that I could clamp a short length of sacrificial panel onto the panel that the hinge plate will be affixed to and reference off the bottom edge of that sacrificial panel, taking care to simply account for the increased depth of plunge that will be needed to get all the way through the sacrificial panel and the necessary depth into the panel underneath. I may have just answered my own question, though your out-of-the box thinking definitely opened my mind up to the other possibilities!

Cheers!       

 

[Sparktrician]

Since you're going to build a multi-function cabinet that will bear some weight, once constructed, have you considered how you're going to create the base to keep it level and plumb?  I'd offer the suggestion that you first create a ladder-base (or just a single base) out of pressure-treated 2x stock to make it easier to get true level before you put the cabinet on top of it.  You can use shim shingles to dial in the exact level before adding the cabinetwork.  Also, make a base surround from vinyl trim board and hold it up 1/8" AFF to make cleaning easier.  The vinyl is water-resistant and will not degrade that way MDF will over time when it gets wet from floor cleaning.  [smile]

 

[TinyShop]

[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member] - LOL the sub kick (constructed from 3/4" birch ply) - which conceals/houses a hydronic kickspace heater that I installed shortly after I completed it - has been in place since the fall, awaiting my progress on the remainder of the whole house renovation. I've been focusing again on the kitchen for the last couple of months and though the going is slow I'm finally making headway. So, IOW, yes, that's exactly the approach I'm using and have used in the entire kitchen. I much prefer the two component technique since I find it more enjoyable to build (and install) rectangular boxes rather than boxes with the weird kickspace cut out, the latter of which are a pain to get level. But thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Lincoln]

[member=69760]Lincoln[/member] - That's certainly one way to go about it and would be well worth the small increased use of material. Thanks for the guidance!  

That said, I'm hoping to keep the seamless look of full uninterrupted panels on both sides of the cabinet so I'll likely stick with an approach that allows for that.

And, actually, while writing this just now it occurred to me that I could clamp a short length of sacrificial panel onto the panel that the hinge plate will be affixed to and reference off the bottom edge of that sacrificial panel, taking care to simply account for the increased depth of plunge that will be needed to get all the way through the sacrificial panel and the necessary depth into the panel underneath. I may have just answered my own question, though your out-of-the box thinking definitely opened my mind up to the other possibilities!

Cheers!     

Ah, ok, I assumed that you would have 'applied' end panels, in one piece/full height. I almost always do it that way.

 

[Packard]

Tall cabinets seem to call for a fixed shelf somewhere in the middle.  If I were to make a 72” tall cabinet, I would probably add a fixed shelf at about counter height. 

It adds structure and offers a fixed point to bank off of for your drilling jig. 

I use a CMT template.  It comes with 14mm steel registration plugs that have a 5mm center protrusion.  So I can make holes to any length I need. 

The plugs are shown in the image below.