LR32 dimensions to router bit centerline

levib1

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Apr 27, 2015
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I hope to explain this well...

My intent is to 3D print a locating jig for the LR 32 rail on the MFT table.

My rail is 184 wide to splinter guard.

From the t-slot on the bottom to the splinter guard is 124. From the t-slot on the bottom to the CL of 5mm boring bit is 140.

The thought is to fabricate a 19mm thick rectangle, 184 wide with two 20mm 'dogs' protruding from the bottom, aligning with the MFT table holes.

On top of the 19mm thick rectangle, I would add a couple 6 mm 'pins' protruding to locate the rail north/south by dropping the rail over the pins.

To locate the rail E/W (because the holes are not round), I would have a strip approximately 8.3mm wide protruding that would go in the slot on the underside of the rail.

Really just spitballing at this point and was wondering if the exact manufacture dimensions are available for the LR32 rail? These are just what I've measured.

The thought would be to create the 3d printed block a certain size that would then locate the 1st system hole appropriately. The cabinet side could be slid under the rail and against the block.

The block would be fabricated such that when the cabinet side is slid under the rail up to some dogs, the holes will be 37 mm from front (or any other number depending on which dogs stop the cabinet side/different 3d printed blocks.

Please let me know your thoughts...

Thanks!
 
It might be published, but you can figure it out yourself.

1.  Draw a straight line on a sheet of MDF, plywood, etc.
2.  Place the splinter guard on that line.
3.  Take any straight bit and cut a groove.
4.  Measure from the straight line to closer edge of  groove.
5.  Take 1/2 the width of the groove and add it to the measurement per #4.

That will give you the centerline of your router shaft to the splinter guard.

I would note that any published dimension would not know the width of your saw blade’s kerf which would impact the splinter guard dimensions.
 
I'm not following 100% what you're wanting to do, but note that the stamped plate is not guaranteed to be any exact distance from the rail rib, let alone splinter guard.  Heck, even the TS55 variability doesn't guarantee an exact splinter guard distance hence the adjusters.

The stamped LR32 plate does guarantee that the notches are centerline with the hole and parallel to the rib.  That's why you need to calibrate your parallels to that specific plate.

Whatever locating jig you want to use, it needs to either be from the center of the router bit, or from those notches.  Those are your only guaranteed reference points.

Update: if you're not wanting to use the LR32 parallels is because they're too short, you can use a version of Peter Millard's jig to locate the rail to a line.  Then on your MFT which I assume has a fixed rail, put down some stop blocks either double sided tape, clamp, or the TSO-style stops (or 3d printed), for repeat work.
 
In addition to woodferrets update: I bought 2 alu 14 mm hexagon bars of 80 cm long and fitted them with 2 AR-LR 32 adjustable stops. Works lik a charm when you want to drill multiple system32 hole rows but need to reference them all from the same side of the panel. (I had to when I built a case with side panels that were curved on the front.) You don't even need the (admittedly expensive) Festool stops either. You could just make something up yourself that performs the same function.
 
Yes RMW.

Part of my inspiration came from your post.

As someone mentioned in your thread, taking the arms on and off the rail gets to be annoying for large projects, besides the fact they have limited reach.

I’ll give my plan a shot and report back.

Thanks
 
I'll check later, I think I have a drawing from F360 that might have some dimensions to get you started.

RMW
 
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