lr32 through holes in center panels

[UncleJoe]

I am making some euro style cabinets and I have the lr 32 Router plate/jig and holy rail but only the brad point router bit. Any good sources for a bit that can make a through hole in Plywood or Melamine without leaving a jagged edge on the exit hole.

Thanks

 

[nclemmons]

Whiteside makes a 5mm uncut spiral router bit.  You might try that.
https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Carbid...UTF8&qid=1550075060&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=5mm+spiral+router+bit&psc=1

Alternatively, have you tried boring with a backer board clamped to reduce tearout on the thru holes?  I've done center holes, but just used the LR32 to drill from both sides rather than thru holes from one side.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Getting clean through holes is going to be difficult. The brad point bit is great for entrance holes but not exit holes.

Festool does make another 5mm bit for routers. It’s shaped like a drill bit for plastics with a long simple drill point. You might try it but it’s not cheap and I don’t think the entrance holes will be as clean as the brad point bit.

I’d just stick with the brad point bit and drill from both sides. You really don’t need holes that go all the way through the panel for shelf pins or drawer slide screws.

 

[Sparktrician]

Use a Festool spear-point 5mm drill bit, 491064. 

 

[Brice Burrell]

Use a Festool spear-point 5mm drill bit, 491064.

I've got this bit, it's the one you want.  Not the least expensive option but I can say Festool bits are high quality.

 

[jjowen]

Use a Festool spear-point 5mm drill bit, 491064.

I've got this bit, it's the one you want.  Not the least expensive option but I can say Festool bits are high quality.

Thanks for the tip (ha ha). I had exactly this situation last weekend and just did the holes from each side with the brad point. Because the setup is so repeatable, they were perfectly aligned. I will get the spear-point and give it ago next time.

 

[rst]

I bought an Amana 1/2" - 10mm reducing bushing from Toolstoday and 4,5 and 6mm thru boring bits for a lot less money than the Festool bit.

 

[Sparktrician]

I bought an Amana 1/2" - 10mm reducing bushing from Toolstoday and 4,5 and 6mm thru boring bits for a lot less money than the Festool bit.

Got to be careful when using line-boring bits.  Some are right-handed; some are left-handed.  The left-handed bits will work in a drill, but not a router. 

 

[rhoyer]

To add to Sparktrician’s recommendation of 491064, that bit is actually included in the full LR32 set for the purpose of routing through holes. It does the trick.

The brad point bit is included for stopped holes.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Melamine is tricky and I try to avoid it each time I can. When I have to, I use a sacrificial bottom board under the melamine. I also try to clamp both the sacrificial and melamine boards together to be safe.

 

[Coen]

To add to Sparktrician’s recommendation of 491064, that bit is actually included in the full LR32 set for the purpose of routing through holes. It does the trick.

The brad point bit is included for stopped holes.

Yup, all nicely in one systainer. The hinge bit is also in there.