Mafell MT55 cc

[blues]

I started with the TS75 and festool rails. Then, I bought the Mafell MT55. I love... the MT55 for the power and ease of operation (scribing function, tilt, and dust collection). The only time I have used the 75 since then was when I needed the additional cut capacity. Note you can adjust the festool saw to the track, not the Mafell.

Regarding the rails, I do have the areofix and bosch rails in addition to the festool rails. I always reach for the aerofix... it's just a simple brilliant system. I connect the bosh rails to the aerofix, and that's all I need. Not a single cut has gone bad. It's easy.. no clamps.. and it works every single time.

I have an mft and my festool rail lives on that. I truly hate the mft mechanism that secures the rail. I need to replace that with the dashboard and might get rid of my festool rails. The clamping mechanism of the mft is its achilles heal. There is so much wobble that i have to square it with the tso square every time I use it. These days, I don't bother. I make a mark, place my aerofix and make my cut..i don't have to deal with any accuracy issues. And that's where I think mafell tools are so cleaverly designed.
I will personally rate the Mafell tools a notch better than Festool 

I don't think you can go wrong with festool saws. But mafell takes it to a whole new level. I have moved to mafell for most of my work... like their jig saw ..p1cc is in a class of its own. The ddf40 is dead on accurate and compliments the domino 700 beautifully.
No matter which path you take..it is a slippery slope.  [big grin].

 

[AndrewG]

Really good discussion- thanks for the inputs.

Can you have the saw set up to work on both the mafell and festool rails without having to adjust the saw? I’m thinking I’d like to use the festool rail for my MFT station as I can use the parf dogs etc, then mafell for use on sheet goods etc.

 

[Cheese]

Here are a couple of other items that may be of interest.
=9
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...tool-fs-guide-rail-vs-mafell-f-guide-rail/90/

 

[mino]

...
- I do like the mafell rails splinter guard, looks very good quality. Also the fact that I can use the Bosch rails (made by mafell is my understanding)
...

If you prefer a rubberry splinter strip you can try the Makita ones next time you are replacing yours.

IMO they are not as good in their anti-splinter role, precisely because of being softer, but some swear by them and they definitely are better for visibility.

 

[blues]

Here are a couple of other items that may be of interest.
=9
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...tool-fs-guide-rail-vs-mafell-f-guide-rail/90/

Yes, that is easy. The mt55 has knobs that help you adjust it on the fly.

You can also use both mt55 and festool saw on the same festool rail. To do this, cut the new rubber strip first with the Mafell saw, then adjust your festool saw to track exactly on the cut lip and lock in the adjustments.

Some say the 45deg cut line is not the same as the 90deg. If it is off by a few mm, just use a tape at the bottom of the raw to raise it a couple of mm. If you are technically inclined, you can open it and shim it up without having to use any tape.

 

[Bernmc]

Here's the final roundup of the saws tested in the earlier mafell video linked above:=941

WRT the commens about angled cuts being a few mm different to 90deg - isn't that the point of the moving angle guide on the front of the mafell? As you change the angle, the cutline guide moves so you can line it up accurately. See here:=289

 

[ScotF]

Here's the final roundup of the saws tested in the earlier mafell video linked above:=941

WRT the commens about angled cuts being a few mm different to 90deg - isn't that the point of the moving angle guide on the front of the mafell? As you change the angle, the cutline guide moves so you can line it up accurately. See here:=289

The issue is that the saw does not bevel on the rubber strip without shimming. There is a great video from Bisch Basch Bosch that explains it in detail and how to fix it:

 

[yetihunter]

I've used the HK blades with the Mafell.  They had the same plate and kerf thickness.  Are the new Festool tracksaw blades the same as the HK blades? I haven't used the Festool tracksaw in some years, so I can't say if it's any better or worse than the Mafell.  I beliwve the answer to your question is between the lines in the sentence, however.

 

[mino]

I've used the HK blades with the Mafell.  They had the same plate and kerf thickness.  Are the new Festool tracksaw blades the same as the HK blades? I haven't used the Festool tracksaw in some years, so I can't say if it's any better or worse than the Mafell.  I beliwve the answer to your question is between the lines in the sentence, however.

Yes, all Festool 2.2 kerf blades were the same 2.2 kerf /1.6 mm plate.

All the 1.8 blades are the same - 1.8 kerf / 1.2 mm plate.

 

[Touargei]

Thanks all for the input.

I’ll list my thinking so far in the hope I can make a decision soon.

- Using the MT55 with rails with bench dogs can’t be done

- There is options of rail dogs (Axminster sell these for mafell) but not sure if these are as convenient?

- No plug it cord. Will have to modify

- Can’t use the benchdogs UK (which I already have) parallel guides with the mafell. However they make a version for mafell rails and it could be as simple as getting a new fitting.

- I do like the mafell rails splinter guard, looks very good quality. Also the fact that I can use the Bosch rails (made by mafell is my understanding)

- If I keep festool rails it seems from what I’ve read that the accuracy/cut quality won’t be the same as using mafell rails? I’ve read mixed thoughts on this.

MT55 corded here. I do use rail dogs, actually used them way before getting a rail square. Used to use them side by side but then discovered this was actually forcing them so went vertical, pity as it allows the top to be clear but same can be achieved with benchdogs rail square and dog mounts.

I did mod mine with plugit, as I did with other Mafell tools using the festool spare cable. IIRC MT55 was the easiest mod.

As for comments about rails, don’t own any festool rails here (although would be handy for router) but don’t the new rails have a better alignment process?

 

[yetihunter]

I used the MT55 with Festool and Mafell rails back and forth for a couple of years (lot’s of third party Festool accessories and zero Mafell at the time).  I wasn’t aware of any issues.  Then again, I’m not a master cabinet maker, so, take my input for what it is.

The plug-it cord is a god send for sanding and routing. Using different machines in one session.  Sawing on the other hand…. I’m not switching between different plunge saws or switching between different jigsaws. 

I added plug-it’s to a bunch of machines and then changed them right back.  Having a dongle hanging off the back of your tool is pretty intrusive.

The bench dogs rail squares are pretty inexpensive.  I’m sure you can sell the current one if need be.  The t-slot profile on the Mafell/Bosch rails is MUCH thinner than Festool.

 

[mino]

...
As for comments about rails, don’t own any festool rails here (although would be handy for router) but don’t the new rails have a better alignment process?

The new Festool connector set uses a similar approach to the Maffel connector system of a "stretching" connector to center the rails.
The rails are the same.

 

[jeh]

If you have the Mafell get their rails. I have a few Festool rails for routing, but that is it. Strictly Mafell for the MT55cc and Mafell MF26cc Multi-Cutter, which is incredibly useful but expensive saw.

 

[Cheese]

As I mentioned before, last fall I ripped a bunch of maple with the Mafell 48 tooth blade. I placed the saw back in the systainer and this spring this is what the blade looked like.

[attachimg=1]

I used some Permatex gel to clean it up and it removed the rust but the phosphoric acid in the Permatex turned it black. I then attached some green Vlies to an ETS EC 125 and that finished the cleaning process nicely with a final coating of Boeshield.

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

[attachimg=4]

 

[Lbob131]

If  the blade  on the Mafell MT55cc  moves  back  out  by 1/10  of  a millimeter  after  the scoring cut  is completed, won't that  affect  a butt joint?
I understand  it  does  have  a 1 degree  off set angle  feature  to  ensure  butt  joints  are  tight.

Also  from what I have  researched, this  saw  does  not  have  adjustment  to  tighten  the saw  on  the  guide  flange  of  the rail.

 

[Lincoln]

You usually put the scribe cut on the back of the panel join. If that's still a problem, you can make a deeper scoring cut, or not make one at all.
The saw does adjust to the rail, via two knobs on the saw base, not sure where that info would come from.

 

[Cheese]

If  the blade  on the Mafell MT55cc  moves  back  out  by 1/10  of  a millimeter  after  the scoring cut  is completed, won't that  affect  a butt joint?
I understand  it  does  have  a 1 degree  off set angle  feature  to  ensure  butt  joints  are  tight.

Also  from what I have  researched, this  saw  does  not  have  adjustment  to  tighten  the saw  on  the  guide  flange  of  the rail.

Let's take your second question first. There are adjusters on the MT 55 that allow you to fine tune the saw to track adjustment when the saw is used on either Mafell or Festool rails. More importantly, the Mafell adjusters are detented so you know where you are during the adjustment process. On a Festool you spin the adjustment dial forward or backward without ever knowing your base line. Because the Mafell adjustment is detented, spin the adjustment dial forward...too tight..spin it back 3 detents...too loose spin it forward 2 detents...you get the idea. It is a major improvement over the Festool method. Here's a photo of the two rail tracks machined into the bottom plate of the Mafell saw. The narrow upper one is for the Mafell track while the wider lower one is for Festool.

[attachimg=1]

In these next photos you can easily see the range of adjustment that's available when using either the Mafell or the Festool rails.

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

To your first point about the blade moving outwards by .1 mm when the scoring cut lever is rotated...at this point I just don't see it. I've studied it and the lever only prevents the blade from cutting deeper, there is NO other connection between the cutting depth and the amount of sideways blade movement. It's a simple depth stop change as there is NO linkage to other blade movements.

If there is sideways blade movement, then it has to be within the plunge mechanism itself such that when a certain plunge depth is exceeded, then the blade is moved laterally some distance. However, again I've not seen that mechanism either. Maybe this weekend I'll run some tests and see what fleshes out.

 

[Lincoln]

The scoring action is built into the plunge action - as the saw plunges, the blade moves across .1mm, then back again as you plunge deeper. The 'switch' is just a depth stop.
Once you plunge past the scoring depth, the blade moves back to it's original cutting position for a 'parting cut' (Mafell terminology)
If you don't like the scribing offset, set your depth a bit deeper for the scribing cut and cut backwards.

 

[Lbob131]

Thanks  for  taking  the  time  to explain that.

Makes  me  wonder  why  Mafells  Cross-Cutting System KSS 80 Ec / 370  does  not have  such a  facility.
And  my  Festool HK85 does.

 

[Lbob131]

Had  the pleasure  of  working  for  a  client  this  week  who  runs a roof framing  business in deepest  ole  Ireland. 
A  true  emerald  isle  carpenter  with a  love  and  passion  for  his  work.
Incorporating  traditional  methods. M&T  and  draw  hole  pegging.
Each  peg  he  could  tell me, exerts  about 2  ton  of holding pressure.
His  timber  is    mostly green  oak....... 8" x 8"  beams. Though I think  he  said  his  current  project  was  Red  cedar.

His  power  tools  are  all  Festool  and  Mafell. I was  delighted  to get  my hands  on  the Mafell  Portable Band Saw Z 5 Ec.
I have a  host  of  images  for  his  work  but can  never  figure  out  the FOG's  method  for  posting an image.