Makita Cordless Track - Out of Square Cuts

Mike Goetzke

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Jul 12, 2008
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Don't know if this is related to Makita only but was cross (cross added) cutting some FF parts from oak and good thing I checked my first cut it was quite a bit out of square. I then ran some tests on some scrap pieces of oak ply I had laying around and perfectly square again. Tried a test cut on the hardwood and out of whack again!

It was my error. I knew my saw was sort of struggling so I changed the blade and it solve the issue. Maybe the thin kerf on these cordless blades makes them very sensitive to blade wear?
 
How are you supporting the track on those narrow rip cuts with the hardwood?  Any chance the track is not adequately supported and it's tilting?  Perhaps the scrap material isn't touching the antislip strips under the track on one side?  It doesn't make sense to me that the cut would be square on ply and beveled on the hardwood. 
 
Mike Goetzke said:
Don't know if this is related to Makita only but was cutting some FF parts from oak and good thing I checked my first cut it was quite a bit out of square. I then ran some tests on some scrap pieces of oak ply I had laying around and perfectly square again. Tried a test cut on the hardwood and out of whack again!

It was my error. I knew my saw was sort of struggling so I changed the blade and it solve the issue. Maybe the thin kerf on these cordless blades makes them very sensitive to blade wear?

Mike - can you email me some pictures of your narrow stock cutting set-up? show the dimensions of the work piece and the support you made for the track.

Hans@tsoproducts.com

Hans
 
Maybe it's all in my head, but my cordless Makita saw seems to have more torque at the setting "4" instead of "5"

Good point about the thin kerf blades. I was considering "upgrading" the miter and track saw to their new cordless blades, but maybe I'll just stick with what works.
 
[member=61691]TSO_Products[/member]  Here you go Hans:

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After looking at my pics I noticed two things: 1) that blade is pretty pitched up! 2) maybe for these crosscuts of FF and door frame pieces I should also slide a piece of stock under the rail behind the square (This would be a pain if it was a loose piece but maybe something that attaches to the rail or square would work).

But like I said after the new blade all cuts were square and the well used blade was really struggling to cut through the 3/4" stock.

I cut nearly 60 pieces with my TSO components. I have a nice miter saw and only used it on parts that were too short to use the parallel guide system.

Mike
 

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[member=250]mike[/member] - thanks for the pictures. It took me a good while to figure out that you were CROSS-cutting face frame stock.
I had misunderstood that you were ripping narrow stock material into face frame parts.

Hans
 
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