Makita LS1019L miter saw mini review
- Thread starter James Biddle
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Steven Owen
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At least Makita has an adjustment for the rail. I had to exchange the Dewalt 782 twice to get one that squared up correctly.
Job and Knock
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Hmmm... My old DW708 had a tendency to twist in cut noticeably on long one-sided dust cuts (where I was adjusting a mitre cut). I believe that's why DW changed the design to a side by side rail arrangement on the DW718. The big Makita (LS1214) was better than the DW708 in that respect (we ran them side by side for couple of oak panelling jobs)glass1 said:
I have issues with how miniscule the bevel scale on the Makita is - and the effect that will have on ultimate accuracy and repeatability of cuts. One of the best features of the Kapex is those large, easily read scales. Makita need to learn that we aren't all 25 year old hotshots with razor sharp eyesight.glass1 said:
18 months on with a 110 volt Kapex doing mainly oak, ash and maple and it still hasn't fried, yet. Must be doing something right
Really. I found the 1019 much more solid than the kapex. No doubt the 1014 and 1214 were solid saws that gave years of use and abuse. The only 2 things on those saws that was lacking was no 60 degree miter and no bevel past 45.
The only 2 things I like about the kapex over the 1019 are the bevel scale and the weight. Everything else the makita takes it, flat table, better blade guard, standard blades, 60 miter both ways, more power, no carpal tunnel trigger, no leaky arbor, miter detent override, dust collection, and more than likely that pesky motor issue, and of course price.
The only 2 things I like about the kapex over the 1019 are the bevel scale and the weight. Everything else the makita takes it, flat table, better blade guard, standard blades, 60 miter both ways, more power, no carpal tunnel trigger, no leaky arbor, miter detent override, dust collection, and more than likely that pesky motor issue, and of course price.
Same here. I toyed with the cordless and liked it but found a few features that were deal breakers for me. The bevel locking knob is a horrible idea, and the button to bypass the 0 stop is in a bad spot so bevel adjustments are gonna be a constant pain. Also the fence wings being removable instead of sliding makes no sense. Sad, i was hoping this might be the next great saw.Cochese said:
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todd_fuller
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- Jun 7, 2016
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To help add knowledge of the adjustment process, I was able to get my saw pretty close today.
I put a steel plate on the bed and put my magnetic dial indicator base with a 0.01mm dial indicator on the plate. I wanted something stable so it wouldn’t influence the measurement. I indicated on the blade near the centerline. Initially it was off by 0.4mm front to back. I moved the saw to the mid point and loosened the set screws. The idea was to move the rails to the point the midpoint was indicating 1/2 of the runout. In the end, it didn’t take as much effort to move the rails into position but it would be easier with a helper to check the runout and tighten the set screws once it’s close. I was able to get it down to 0.1mm over the travel. IMHO, that’s close enough for woodworking.
I put a steel plate on the bed and put my magnetic dial indicator base with a 0.01mm dial indicator on the plate. I wanted something stable so it wouldn’t influence the measurement. I indicated on the blade near the centerline. Initially it was off by 0.4mm front to back. I moved the saw to the mid point and loosened the set screws. The idea was to move the rails to the point the midpoint was indicating 1/2 of the runout. In the end, it didn’t take as much effort to move the rails into position but it would be easier with a helper to check the runout and tighten the set screws once it’s close. I was able to get it down to 0.1mm over the travel. IMHO, that’s close enough for woodworking.
This thread helped me to finally understand why I can't get my old crappy sliding miter to cut straight -- yes, blade and rods do not align with each other. Will see if I can find a way to fix it.
Looking at the ls1019l schematics, loosening, adjusting and re-tightening the #169 can only change the rotary tension/preload of the rods. In theory the rods should held parallel by back arm #208 and #169 should provide only a stop for the sledge. Additional stiffness by it should be only a bonus.
I'm glad if playing with the #169 helped you guys, but Makita should have provided stiffer rods so that the saw would cut straight even without #169 attached.
Looking at the ls1019l schematics, loosening, adjusting and re-tightening the #169 can only change the rotary tension/preload of the rods. In theory the rods should held parallel by back arm #208 and #169 should provide only a stop for the sledge. Additional stiffness by it should be only a bonus.
I'm glad if playing with the #169 helped you guys, but Makita should have provided stiffer rods so that the saw would cut straight even without #169 attached.
Spent today an hour or two to tune up my old miter.
I used a precise digital angle box to measure rod parallelism and it worked really well. I attached it to a piece of steel that was wide enough to reach both rods and measured the angle in one end of the rods and compared it with the angle in the other end.
As it turned out, my saw has set screws only for one rod, another rod is held in place with tightening pins [mad] Well, what can you do...
As I could not loosen the rods fully, I connected wide-pad 1.5m long bessey clamps to both end of the rods. It gave me huge leverage to precicely and gently bend the rods to the position. Then tightened screws again, readjusted the fence (which now is in expected position) and voila. All the tuning without any test cuts. The result -- saw has never cut better.
With understanding the root cause of my miter problem, I now appreciate and understand why Kapex has the "stupid" centered handle to carry and plunge.
While I significantly improved my miter for now, I do not expect it to stay adjusted for long time. It is not designed to be adjusted and my tuning was pure vandalism. What I will do though, is stop using the carry handle and always use the leftmost part of the main handle for cuts (both handles are off center). Hope it helps.
I used a precise digital angle box to measure rod parallelism and it worked really well. I attached it to a piece of steel that was wide enough to reach both rods and measured the angle in one end of the rods and compared it with the angle in the other end.
As it turned out, my saw has set screws only for one rod, another rod is held in place with tightening pins [mad] Well, what can you do...
As I could not loosen the rods fully, I connected wide-pad 1.5m long bessey clamps to both end of the rods. It gave me huge leverage to precicely and gently bend the rods to the position. Then tightened screws again, readjusted the fence (which now is in expected position) and voila. All the tuning without any test cuts. The result -- saw has never cut better.
With understanding the root cause of my miter problem, I now appreciate and understand why Kapex has the "stupid" centered handle to carry and plunge.
While I significantly improved my miter for now, I do not expect it to stay adjusted for long time. It is not designed to be adjusted and my tuning was pure vandalism. What I will do though, is stop using the carry handle and always use the leftmost part of the main handle for cuts (both handles are off center). Hope it helps.
Michael Kellough
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Ostap said:
Love the way you put that! "If you can't make it perfect, make it adjustable" is the mantra I try to go by. If the manufacturers followed that we wouldn't have to resort to adjustment via pry bar.
chrisfrantzdale
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- Mar 21, 2018
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This is a side topic relating to this saw but has anyone had issues with the amount of slop in the detents? I haven't used this saw but using the Makita LS0815F I've had problems with the detents. If you loosen the miter-adjust knob and move the saw into any of the detent positions there is maybe 1/2 a degree of slop at each detent. If you jiggle it around there's that much play before you lock it down with the knob, so you could be out +/- 1/4 of a degree or so. Kapex has zero slop at the detents, old Hitachi is close. Has anyone experienced this with the LS1019LS?
I noticed my saw was a bit off after 2 weeks of work. Musta got bumped or slid off a tiny bit. Now its back to normal after adjusting the screws on part #169 from the diagram and every so gently fiddeling and checking each cut. Rinsed and repeated the process until it was aligned again. Did not take to long to adjust properly. Chopped up a few 2x12 cut off pieces i had laying around garage and got it cutting fine, dandy and straight as a arrow in no time at all.
Glad we have this option and know how to fix it now. I really am loving this saw. So are my crew and co-workers.
Just signed up to say Thanks a million! [smile]
Glad we have this option and know how to fix it now. I really am loving this saw. So are my crew and co-workers.
Just signed up to say Thanks a million! [smile]
Hey Guys,
After reading this thread I bit the bullet and bought an LS1019L saw. I've never been afraid of calibrating tools and doing a little extra to make an average tool do the job. I just could not bring myself to spend 3x money on the Kapex no matter how bad I wanted it.
Short story is I was able to get the LS1019L just so close to working but I just can't quite seem to get it spot on. If I cut a 12" wide board and then put that cut end of the board on a flat surface I get just a little rocking which drives me bat **** crazy. I think I am adjusting this thing correctly but if someone would just post a couple of pics or short video showing exactly how to calibrate that would be aces. I think I am doing what [member=4687]glass1[/member] is suggesting but just not 100%.
Thanks everyone.
After reading this thread I bit the bullet and bought an LS1019L saw. I've never been afraid of calibrating tools and doing a little extra to make an average tool do the job. I just could not bring myself to spend 3x money on the Kapex no matter how bad I wanted it.
Short story is I was able to get the LS1019L just so close to working but I just can't quite seem to get it spot on. If I cut a 12" wide board and then put that cut end of the board on a flat surface I get just a little rocking which drives me bat **** crazy. I think I am adjusting this thing correctly but if someone would just post a couple of pics or short video showing exactly how to calibrate that would be aces. I think I am doing what [member=4687]glass1[/member] is suggesting but just not 100%.
Thanks everyone.
CumminsDiesel
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- Mar 16, 2010
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- 209
The more I read about this saw,the more I want the Kapex! [smile]
Now I understand why Kapex cost 2 or 3 times more than any other miter saws: pure engineering!
Now I understand why Kapex cost 2 or 3 times more than any other miter saws: pure engineering!
CumminsDiesel
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- Mar 16, 2010
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bananacat said:
And because part #169 is NOT designed for adjusting,
adjusting it every time gives more room for the next errors.
CumminsDiesel
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- Mar 16, 2010
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- 209
The bevel adjusting just crazy and unsafe:=10m39s
glass1 said:
I know this is an old thread but I have to give a nod and a big thanks to Glass1!
Recently picked up the cordless version of this saw, XSL06 PT, and ran into this same issue on 2 consecutive saws! After several hours trying to make either workable, I was ready to write this saw off as a miss and go back to my old Bosch slider, 20# heavier and the size of an aircraft carrier, but I really liked this saw so much I didn't want to return it! In a bit of "what do I have to lose", I tried the Glass1 fix on the XSL06 rails and I was shocked how easy AND effective this is! This is NOT a big adjustment, it is more of a "tweak" to the rods, I actually over compensated on the first go and caused the same issue on the opposite side of the blade, again a fine adjustment! After a little trial and error, the chop cut and slide cut align perfectly!
Re-squared the saw again with a square and then fine tuned it using the 5 cut method on 12" and I called it good enough at .0003" for all 5 cuts!
Really love everything about this saw, excellent ergonomics, power, dust collection, weight and footprint, and now accuracy!
Thanks again to Glass1!
Cheers
I am glad that the saw is working out.
Some thoughts on this saw. I do like it as the table is flat, tons of power, compact, smooth rails and motor, great dust collection, 60 degree both directions, detent override, excellent capacity as it can cut 5 1/2” vertical, once dialed in it has been accurate, and more. Some things not as good as kapex, weight, not as elegant bevel adjust and small scale and awkward bevel detente pin, laser not as good and no shadow line like others.
Some thoughts on this saw. I do like it as the table is flat, tons of power, compact, smooth rails and motor, great dust collection, 60 degree both directions, detent override, excellent capacity as it can cut 5 1/2” vertical, once dialed in it has been accurate, and more. Some things not as good as kapex, weight, not as elegant bevel adjust and small scale and awkward bevel detente pin, laser not as good and no shadow line like others.
