MFSlab Portable Work Table

[SFSteve]

That is an awesome work table! For sure I am going to have to make one.  I was thinking of ways to keep the top from flexing. I remember watching a granite fabricator cut a kerf on the underside of the front and back of a sink.  He then put this really ridged  piece of plastic in the kerf cut and epoxied it in. It keeps the granite from flexing during install. This would be perfect for this top!

I really like that idea do you have any way of finding out what the plastic is? To be honest it really doesn't deflect very much (1/8 - 1/4") but anything to enhance the rigidity while still keeping it light would be a valuable add. Thanks so much for the feedback.

 

[Emer Construction]

That is an awesome work table! For sure I am going to have to make one.  I was thinking of ways to keep the top from flexing. I remember watching a granite fabricator cut a kerf on the underside of the front and back of a sink.  He then put this really ridged  piece of plastic in the kerf cut and epoxied it in. It keeps the granite from flexing during install. This would be perfect for this top!

I use a couple 2x4's...works great...a friend of mine uses square steel 2x2

 

[WoodWhisperer]

That is an awesome work table! For sure I am going to have to make one.  I was thinking of ways to keep the top from flexing. I remember watching a granite fabricator cut a kerf on the underside of the front and back of a sink.  He then put this really ridged  piece of plastic in the kerf cut and epoxied it in. It keeps the granite from flexing during install. This would be perfect for this top!

I really like that idea do you have any way of finding out what the plastic is? To be honest it really doesn't deflect very much (1/8 - 1/4") but anything to enhance the rigidity while still keeping it light would be a valuable add. Thanks so much for the feedback.

Here's a pic of the strip of plastic/fiberglass for reinforcing the top.  It measures 1/8"x3/8". It comes in a 150' roll. I got it from our granite guy. They use it to reinforce around sinks. The guy that gave it to me speaks really fast Spanish and little English so I couldn't make out where they get it. Seems like it comes from a granite tool supply company. I can find out for sure next time I see him. It doesn't flex what so ever vertically.  To install all u need is a 1/8" kerf cut deep enough for the plastic to fit flush with the bottom side of the work table. Use some kind of glue or epoxy and your done.  I think it would work out great for this work bench.

 

[Samo]

Those of you that use 1" MFT style tops, do you get used to installing clamps in the deeper MDF?

I was doing an install with a Carpenter buddy that has a chop saw station and wings made with dog holes. 

They are 1" doubled up  BB ply.  I had to use two hands to get the clamps in the holes.  I'm just use to the 3/4" I guess.

 

[WastedP]

I worked in a shop where the stone side used the fiberglass reinforcing rod.  They always called it "kerf rod."  I can't remember where they ordered it, but I see it is available from Granite City Tool.  They bonded it into the stone with polyester resin, Akemi brand.  I've used it with MDF and Paperstone, and it bonds great to those materials.

 

[mwildt]

I like the MFSlab idea especially for working outside.

Any chance one of you have a recommendation for a CNC shop in the greater Boston area (along 495/Rt2/Rt3) ?

 

[donwon]

I really like this idea as it is quick to assemble for working on and tear down.

My concern is the weight of the mdf. Has anyone ride something else like Baltic birch plywood or a plastic top plywood?  It would be lighter for carrying.

 

[TomMcMillan]

I also think this “Multifunction Slab” [MFSlab] design is brilliant and beautifully presented.

But the design, like the MFT/3, is specifically oriented to portability, though many of us won't ever need to move it out of our shops, so one has to consider what one would sacrifice by using it as THE workbench in a shop setting, or as an alternative, using it as the bench one pulls out to use when the cuts for a project are best handled with an MFT-type setup, but otherwise kept stacked on edge with other sheet goods in the shop.

Maybe it’s because I’m an architect, but I resist the idea of looking at a messed up tabletop in the middle of it all the time. The MFSlab allows one to put the workbench top away when it's not needed and use another more traditional designed hardwood workbench, with the possibility of storage under it, as the main permanent workbench. In my case, I’m thinking that the MFSlab could be placed, presumably temporarily, on blocks or dogs on top of the other table rather than on sawhorses. When the weather is nice, I could take it out and work in the yard using sawhorses.

I would change the 30-degree slots to match the others (since I’m not toting them up San Francisco streets) if I go ahead with this design but maybe SFSteve would be willing to do a shop-bound version of the drawing? If not, I’ve some AutoCad literate friends who could do that. Also, I live in Berkeley; what local shop did the milling for you and could you suggest anyone in the east bay?

Tom

 

[centerisl]

I got pretty excited about this, but I just received a quote from a Seattle area shop for $150 for 1 sheet. And $300 for 2 sheets.

I may still do this even at that price but would actually prefer to "mail order" it from a lower-cost CNC mill and pay some ground freight (but save 10% sales tax). And I'd be happy to drop it on a pair of StoreHorses if there was a mechanism to (lightly) secure it from sliding. I can deal with cutting channels for the "fiberglass rodding", but I'd really like to see a solution for side clamping - that would be the final hold-out feature for me. Oh, wait - I want it to be flippable like the MFT table (I can lose the small parts divots)

Compared to the MFT/3 I like the 3'x5' size (76% more), what should be a lower cost, and don't really mind the total weight. My calculations show the top should - in 1" Light Density Fiberboard - weigh 60 pounds (about the same as the total MFT table), plus the two StoreHorses at 10 pounds each, plus (if used) the bottom shelf at 24 pounds.

 

[jafenske]

@centerisl - I also live in Seattle. Do you mind telling me the name of the CNC shop who gave you the quote? Did that quote include the starting material or do you need to supply the starting material.

Thanks.

 

[wow]

centerisl, [welcome] to the FOG!

Don't let one quote discourage you. The shop you tried may be busy, may be high-priced, or just may not want to work on the project you presented. Try craigslist, or shop around some more. I'm sure you can find someone who can do it RIGHT for $100 or less.

 

[centerisl]

@centerisl - I also live in Seattle. Do you mind telling me the name of the CNC shop who gave you the quote? Did that quote include the starting material or do you need to supply the starting material.

http://www.dynamicshapes.net/ They looked like a small, reasonable shop after a brief search. Unfortunately that does NOT include the material, though they said they could source it. If you are serious, and particularly if there's anyone else in the PNW who wants one, perhaps I can re-approach them about a better quantity price.

 

[Alan m]

if i was making one of these. I would get a template cut rather than the actual top. make it out of good quality material and seal it. you will have it for years.
if a few wanted a top im sure the costs would average out

 

[centerisl]

centerisl, [welcome] to the FOG!

Uh, thanks! I don't actually own any Festool! Just bought the Dewalt track saw, already have a Fein Turbo II that I freaking love (and Fein ROS and Multimaster), and I'm working hard to not buy an MFT/3.  [laughing]

...Try craigslist, or shop around some more. I'm sure you can find someone who can do it RIGHT for $100 or less.

Great idea - not sure why I didn't think of that myself! Several CNC operations on CL that have machines too small for 3x5, but I see a couple that might work except they seem to focus on metal. That shop I contacted specifically mentioned wood and composites.

 

[centerisl]

if i was making one of these. I would get a template cut rather than the actual top. make it out of good quality material and seal it. you will have it for years.

I'm not following - can you please explain how a template would be different than an "actual top"? Is it a different material?

 

[Alan m]

first of all let me welcome you.
I don't know how I missed that [eek] [embarassed]

I would enlarge the holes  so that you could use a guide bush to create to holes. increase the holes in radius by ( HALF the  difference between guide bush and cutter).
the guide bush will then run around the holes and  route the original shape into the work piece
then the jig will last for years and you can make as many as you want

you should only have to pay the high price once.

 

[wow]

I don't actually own any Festool!

I predict that won't be true in 30 days, and that you'll own two or more Festools in less than 90 days. We (the FOG collective) have often been told that we are a bad influence!

[wink]

You're welcome!

 

[morts10n]

I ordered the file to have my cnc guy make a slab top for me. I emailed the file to him as it says on the website and he got the file but was unable to open it with autocad. I had to convert it from a dwg file to a dxf file for him, as a cnc machine can't do anything with a dwg (drawing) file. Finally he had a file that the machine could read, but he spent 20 minutes playing with the different layers on the screen before it was ready for cutting. He is very experienced with his $200K machine and had a heck of a time preparing for the actual cutting which I'm sure figured in the final price for the work. The next one will be much cheaper I'm sure.

I provided a piece of 1" maple plywood for the top instead of mdf both for weight issues and durability. I just received a set of Precision Dogs and rail dogs to use with the top. My first concern will be how loose or tight the dogs fit into the dog holes since they are spec'd at 20.1mm.  More later...

 

[centerisl]

first of all let me welcome you.
I don't know how I missed that [eek] [embarassed]

I'll overlook it - just this once!

I would enlarge the holes  so that you could use a guide bush to create to holes. increase the holes in radius by ( HALF the  difference between guide bush and cutter).
the guide bush will then run around the holes and  route the original shape into the work piece
then the jig will last for years and you can make as many as you want

you should only have to pay the high price once.

Ah, now I see. Heck, I could create my OWN drawing, create a web site, sell it for $17 (undercutting the competition), and I'd only have to sell 38 copies...to be able to pay for an MFT/3!

I think this is a great idea but I'm just a hobbyist and for a one-off, buying an MFT/3 is starting to look more appealing. But then I'd start getting assimilated into the Festool collective and do crazy stuff like replacing my kitchen cabinets with Systainers ("but look honey, you can color-code them! And when we go to the cabin you can take them out, stack them up, and roll them out the door!").

 

[Alan m]

the Festool collective and do crazy stuff like replacing my kitchen cabinets with Systainers ("but look honey, you can color-code them! And when we go to the cabin you can take them out, stack them up, and roll them out the door!").

that's a great idea.
I wonder could you put a kitchen sink in a systainers. maybe a maxi 2