MFT/3 Fence and Square ... TSO GRS-16 PE?

[afish]

I like it  [wink] looks like square cuts ahead. That piece that extends under the track is essential in my opinion. I tried without it and it made a huge difference.  Let us know how it works out for you after some cutting. 

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Funny, I’ve the Incra mounted with anchor dogs and found some cuts off by 0.5mm which isn’t terrible but enough to annoy me. After further inspection, I can see the fence still has some deflection when pushed on. Unfortunately because I’ve inserted the M8 to M6 thread reducer I cannot fasten from underneath the table to see if that would remove it. 

I’ve recently acquired the TSO close fit dogs which fit perfectly and in combination with Parf Super Dogs result in 0.002” accuracy so now I’m considering to try them as my fence, I can even get one under the guide rail by the cut, and a TSO parallel guide on the guide rail for setting the width.  It seems like it could work well and doesn’t cost me anything to experiment but worst case I may buy the fence dogs for the Incra since those can be shimmed and easily tightened with a star knob below...

So ... how did you mount the Incra?

 

[08G8V8]

I used 4 of the UJK anchor dogs with the same threaded inserts as you. I do not notice any deflection, but will keep on eye out to verify. I do have fence dogs that would allow anchoring from below the table if I need to swap them out.

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[Bugsysiegals]

Now that I think about it, I caused the issue ... it did not have any deflection when first installed.

I removed the anchor dogs a week ago, applied blue loctite to the threads (they kept coming loose), and installed the fence. I found the fence was just slightly out of square and so I tapped on one side with a rubber mallet thinking it would help make sure the flat side of the bolt was flat against the t-track. While the fence did become square, not only does it have small deflection, I just noticed my TSO close fit dogs have a small bit of play and did not have previously!

My top is finished with shellac so I’ll try to put some inside the hole and see if that helps for now but will likely have to replace the top ... thanks fully MDF is only $30 a sheet. 

This does make me wonder about the longevity of dog holes when mounting a piece of wood when hand planing, chiseling, or anything else which puts a decent lateral force on the dog holes.  Perhaps it would be better to use the Vac system attached to the extrusion to retain the best possible accuracy of the dog holes ...

 

[08G8V8]

I wanted to keep the anchor dogs as tight as possible to the fence so they don’t come loose if/when I remove the fence to have full access to the table. I used hex bolts with a shank just long enough to not protrude past the threaded insert, leaving just enough thread in the anchor dog to thread in a 8mm bolt from below once the fence was in place, then tightening the 8mm bolt and then removing it to do the same to all 4 locations. The anchor dogs are very solidly connected now.

I used blue loctite on the threaded insert, but not on the hex bolts. If I see it losing clamp up I will add some.

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[Bugsysiegals]

Thanks for the explanation ... my hex bolts from the fence go all the way to the bottom of the anchor dog as I wasn't planning to fix anything from the bottom but I should replace them with shorter bolts as you've done just in case. 

That said, I don't understand why you threaded a M8 into the bottom and then removed it?

 

[08G8V8]

You can’t really secure the dogs to the fence without the dogs in the holes.

Once the fence is installed all the dogs are exactly where they need to be. Threading a 8mm bolt until it bottoms out on the threaded insert allows you to snug up the dog to the bottom of the fence on the 6mm bolts. Then just back off the 8mm bolt and do the next dog.

I have the BenchdogsUK fence as well, with the fence dogs, but any time I removed the fence the dogs moved on me slightly. And since the scale is etched into the fence and you just use flag stops for cut length, I had to recalibrate the guide rail square to the fence and at a specific position to maintain the scales accuracy. Now with the Incra and its Shop Stop, the guide rail might be at a slightly different location if removed and re-installed and squared, but the stop can be micro-adjusted based in this slightly newer position.

This is the reason I went from the BenchdogsUK fence to using the TSO guide rail square and parallel guide. The TSO is automatically squared, and calibration if needed is super quick and easy. Now with the Incra, I have a much longer fence for reference and recalibibration is quick and easy.

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[Bugsysiegals]

Now I understand what you were doing.  I'd fitted the fence with the dogs semi-tight, pulled it out, tightened by hand just a bit, re-inserted the fence, rinse-repeat until they were aligned and snug.  Then using latex glove I gripped the anchor dog and twisted it as tight as I could.  They've not come lose but obviously the 8mm bolt would have been the easier method!

I added some shellac to the inside of the fence holes and everything is back to being snug but I still notice I can flex my fence which is strange  ... maybe because I'm using the t-slot in the rear of the fence ... are you using the one in front?

 

[08G8V8]

Yes, I’m using the front slot for my dogs.

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[Bugsysiegals]

Yes, I’m using the front slot for my dogs.

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I mounted mine from the back because my guide rail is mounted with Parf Super Dog which was standing in front of the Incra fence ever so slightly.  I'm going to build a wider MFT table so if my TSO close fit dogs with TPG doesn't work out as planned I'll try the Incra again with the bolts in the front t-slot ... thanks for clarifying!

 

[Bugsysiegals]

BTW, how did you end up cutting the Incra fence and getting a decent finish?

 

[08G8V8]

I used a hack saw and a grinder with a cutoff wheel to get it close, then just used a grinding disc to get the vertical webbing close to flush, and then used a file to get it flush or very close to flush.

A band saw would make much quicker work if it, but don’t have one.

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[Bugsysiegals]

I used a hack saw and a grinder with a cutoff wheel to get it close, then just used a grinding disc to get the vertical webbing close to flush, and then used a file to get it flush or very close to flush.

A band saw would make much quicker work if it, but don’t have one.

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Thanks ... same here ... no band saw as I always find some other tools I think I will use more often.