MFT/3 securing the fence without using the protractor head

[friendly118]

I haven't been able to find an answer about using the MFT/3 without the protractor head.  My local tool shop has let me borrow an additional fence rail clamp as I saw this from Paul Marcel.  But he has a 1080 table no the MFT/3.  There is a bit of slop in the profile when the clamp is in place.  It doesn't matter how tight I set the clamps it still moves.  I am trying to accomplish this because my MFT is a more permanent fixture and space is at a premium in my work area.  Removing the protractor head gives me better than 7" of space.  In the images you can see the difference in fence position.

 

[rljatl]

Here's one way.  Many more have been discussed here on FOG.  You just have try a few to see what works best for you in different situations.

Usiing my tracksaw cutting station

This will take the slop out if you want to use the rail with the Festool supports.
slop stop

 

[DynaGlide]

What I do is make sure the clamps are in a natural center. .meaning when tightened they won't be extended too far or the fence isn't so far back that it's pushing on the clamps. I do this by using a spacer cut out of MDF that fits in between the fence and the first available row of dog holes. It's a tight fit. I wedge the spacer in between two or three dogs and the fence then tighten the two clamps down.

It works okay but I know what you mean it isn't the best. If you really want to lock it down look into a set of Fence Dogs, https://benchdogs.co.uk/products/fence-dogs . The downside here is you will give up some cross cut capacity since it will necessarily move the fence forward to past the first row of dog holes coming from the back. I've thought about this and still might do it but I like having the fence all the way back. I recently picked up another MFT/3 and it came with two fence clamps. I might throw them on for a total of 4 and see how it goes. Wouldn't be practical for most as those things are about $40 a pop.

Edit: Looking at your pictures is your fence moving back/forward?

 

[friendly118]

Here's one way.  Many more have been discussed here on FOG.  You just have try a few to see what works best for you in different situations.

Usiing my tracksaw cutting station

This will take the slop out if you want to use the rail with the Festool supports.
slop stop

I want to be able to use the fence and have max capacity.  Thank you though.

 

[friendly118]

What I do is make sure the clamps are in a natural center. .meaning when tightened they won't be extended too far or the fence isn't so far back that it's pushing on the clamps. I do this by using a spacer cut out of MDF that fits in between the fence and the first available row of dog holes. It's a tight fit. I wedge the spacer in between two or three dogs and the fence then tighten the two clamps down.

It works okay but I know what you mean it isn't the best. If you really want to lock it down look into a set of Fence Dogs, https://benchdogs.co.uk/products/fence-dogs . The downside here is you will give up some cross cut capacity since it will necessarily move the fence forward to past the first row of dog holes coming from the back. I've thought about this and still might do it but I like having the fence all the way back. I recently picked up another MFT/3 and it came with two fence clamps. I might throw them on for a total of 4 and see how it goes. Wouldn't be practical for most as those things are about $40 a pop.

Edit: Looking at your pictures is your fence moving back/forward?

I am hoping for max cut capacity.  I thought about putting the clamps on so that they would be against the rail so if it moved at all I would know it needs to be pushed against the clamp to be in the set location as shown in my picture with the space at the back.

 

[DynaGlide]

[member=65996]friendly118[/member]

I think I see your problem. Your top knob on the clamp is in the wrong position. Completely remove it and move it to the other position. So it looks like this:

And here's what I was talking about above:

 

[Billedis]

Does anyone know the part number of the clamp, I would like to get another.  Thank you Bill

 

[GoingMyWay]

https://www.festoolproducts.com/festool-495541-fence-clamp-for-mft-3-table.html

 

[friendly118]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]

I tried the clamp in both screw hole positions with the same result.  On the bottom of the clamp where it bites in the profile of the fence there is a gap.  So even if I tighten the clamp down as tight as I can it still moves to easily for my liking.

 

[Birdhunter]

From the pictures, it looks like the rail is oriented totally different in the two sets of pictures.

 

[friendly118]

[member=15289]Birdhunter[/member]

The pics just show the play that is in the fence when the clamp is holding it down.

 

[DynaGlide]

I can tilt mine up if I push from the bottom but it is dead solid otherwise

 

[friendly118]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]

I just double checked with the screw in the other position and yes same result.  I tried moving the clamps a bit closer together like in your pic.... same result.  I got out the feeler gauges and checked the gap.  It is .033. That's crazy!!

 

[DynaGlide]

So your fence moves front to back and vice versa? I can't move mine.

 

[Gregor]

So your fence moves front to back and vice versa? I can't move mine.

Same here.

Setting the MFT up I push the fence against the clamps, tighten these, then square the rail to the fence.
No problems, fence stays in place.

Possible solutions to the problem of the fence moving away from the back of the table with the fence clamps:
Either put a piece of double-sided tape into the bottom of the groove in the extrusion (adding adhesive friction) -or- drop a fitting strip of something uncompressible into the gap that opens when the fence moved away from the clamp.

 

[Peter_C]

Since I haven't bought a second fence clamp, I use the fence clamp at the rail side, but where the fence doesn't drop in height, and a regular clamp on the farthest side from the rail to lock it down. It gets adjust to 90* with a Woodpeckers 26" square. Rock solid for me.

Otherwise I use my Woodpeckers parallel guide rails and rail dogs so I can zero it and have stops with accurate measuring. 

 

[DynaGlide]

Now I really don't think it's going anywhere. I threw on the other two clamps I had lying around

 

[greg mann]

If you need 4 there is something still not right. I can't tell you what it is but I would go to your dealer's display and see if there is something you are missing. I see 4 clamps and two tables. It is hard to believe they are all different from what others have where the description of your problem does not exist. If it is operator error please don't feel bad about what I am saying. I was very confused with this particular clamp in the beginning as well and felt there must have been some sort of design flaw. It took far too long for the light bulb moment.

 

[DynaGlide]

If you need 4 there is something still not right. I can't tell you what it is but I would go to your dealer's display and see if there is something you are missing. I see 4 clamps and two tables. It is hard to believe they are all different from what others have where the description of your problem does not exist. If it is operator error please don't feel bad about what I am saying. I was very confused with this particular clamp in the beginning as well and felt there must have been some sort of design flaw. It took far too long for the light bulb moment.

[member=22]greg mann[/member]
I'm not the OP. No problems here. I did that just for kicks but two of them are now on a second fence for offcuts.

 

[friendly118]

I think I may try to drill some holes into a pair of veritas dogs make something to fit the fence profile and have a cam style lock.

Thank you all for the input and insight. I appreciate the discussion with knowledgeable people.