Mitered Cabinet Corners?

[jmbfestool]

Joiner 1970 Can you use the plunge lock for changing to blade to make a cut instead of changing the blade?

No, the FastFix lever also locks the arbor from turning. However, the TS 55 REQ does include a new, second FastFix depth lock that is nearly full depth. It is deeper than the blade changing depth, but still locks the arbor. To activate the deeper one, you need to plunge the saw below 30mm before opening the FastFix lever.

However, if I was trying to set the saw (any saw) to a critical angle, I would still use a cut-and-test (trial and error) method. That even includes setting the subsequent Domino fence to a precise 45 degrees, too. This is because whatever method you use to measure your 45 degrees will have only a 1x accuracy, but your finished joint will have a 2x error.

I agree with you?!?!?!?  [bite tongue]

I agree best way to set 45 with TS is trail and error.  I have tried many times using using 45 bevel gauge and its always out.  Like said only have to be slightly out and its doubled.   

I dont think the TS saws are brilliant anyway for BANG on 45 cuts even if you have done the trail and error method.

You gotta clamp the rail, you must apply pressure on the base to guarantee it to not tilt every so slightly.  A sharp blade MUST be used to avoid it going off. 

You also gotta cutting it square first remove the bulk of material then angle cut it.

If possible I use my router with 45 router cutter!  Much better bang on!

 

[Rick Christopherson]

I sense there is some kind of juvenile rivalry that I don’t care about going on in the track saw world, but I’m pretty sure the OP asked how to set 45 with a gauge. I guess we are left with growing the third hand option.

There is nothing juvenile about it. You linked to a discussion that advocated tying a string around the saw to lock it into a permanent plunge mode during normal operation. By all rights, your posting should have been removed for violating the TOS of the forum for modifying a tool in an unsafe manner. I suspect that the only reason it wasn't immediately deleted by the volunteer moderators was to avoid the perception of a bias against the owner of that other forum. (FOG Admin may have a different view.)

There are 3 plunging saws on the market today: Makita, DeWalt, and Festool (maybe a 4th, but I forget). Outside of the EZ-Smart forum, I have never heard of anyone advocating the need to lock a plunging saw into a permanent plunge position.

It is dangerous, and permanently exposes the blade and disables whatever safety features are in place to prevent that from happening.

As Gregg pointed out, the only time you will find such behavior advocated, is by the owner of the website that you linked to. That's because his system forces this safety violation to occur regardless of which brand of saw is used. So suggesting that plunge saw owners (Makita, DeWalt, or Festool) do the same, is a poor manner of trying to level the playing field.

It is a dangerous practice, and there is no reason to ever do it with a plunging saw.....unless you are just trying to level the playing field with non-plunging saws using the EZ-Smart system.  [mad]

 

[Jalvis]

There are 3 plunging saws on the market today: Makita, DeWalt, and Festool (maybe a 4th, but I forget). Outside of the EZ-Smart forum, I have never heard of anyone advocating the need to lock a plunging saw into a permanent plunge position.

There are 6 for the North America market from my memory.  Makita, Dewalt, Festool, Mafell, Scheppach, and Grizzly.

I certainly think a fixed blade would help in this application but before you consider the KSP 85 you might want to see this.......

http://www.mafell.de/k85/

 

[woodie]

Thanks for all the replies!

I haven't given up on doing this with the TS75, although I do wish there was a easier way to set this up. I'll try dialing it in via the trial and error method tonight.  Any suggestions on how to "micro adjust" the bevel without changing my 90 degree settings? 

 

[woodie]

Is there a way to do this with a router? 

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/25919

The router jig seems like an interesting way to do this! I would need to cut through 2-1/8" of material though, so I need to look into what bits are available to do this. 

 

[greymann]

Putting aside the ridiculous string suggestion, I looked at all of that linked article and was struck by something further down in that forum listing.  That was the claim that the outer glide strip on the rail acts as a tipping point when using the track saw.  I jogged out to my shop (well as much as this 68 year old can jog) to check it out.  I had been noticing some things I didn't like on some long cuts, they weren't as vertical as I would like.

I found that it was an accurate claim.  It is very easy to cause the saw to tip during a cut.  I know that "correct" procedure is to use two hands during the cut and this won't happen.  However on long crosscuts and especially on rip cuts, this often is impossible.  While I don't make many 45 degree cuts, I could see how this could significantly affect accuracy/repeatability of that cut.

I think there is an easy fix that I tried with what I had on hand.

[attachimg=#]

This shows the gap that allows the tilt at the rear of the saw

[attachimg=#]

This shows the gap filled with some tape I had on hand.  It seems to me that UHMW tape would be ideal but I don't have any right now.

[attachimg=#]
[attachimg=#]
[attachimg=#]

Here are a few more images of what I did.  The result is that while you can still cause the saw to tilt, it is much harder.  I would say the saw is rock solid in comparison.  I'll be trying this out to see if the results are there but I wanted to get this out while it was timely.

I would be very interested in comments on this.

Dick

 

[Katlover]

I am new here and a novice and I am probably about to say something really dumb here.

Would the carvex with the angled plate cut an accurate angle? [embarassed]

 

[Stone Message]

I have a TS75 and an assortment of tracks but setting the saw up to make reliable 45 degree bevels seems impossible.  

I have only just come across this thread and have only glanced at the responses...

I use clamps to hold the guide rail in place when I make a mitred cut. Without the clamps you have some opposing forces and either the rail can move or the saw moves relative to the rail. With clamps (one at each end) I manage perfect mitres each time.

I also use clamps on normal cuts when I am either cutting a long length or thick material.

I am not a fan of the exposed plywood edge - a bit too modern for me (and it reminds me of furniture from the 1950's) - but there are some good skill levels shown in the work.

Peter

 

[jmbfestool]

I am new here and a novice and I am probably about to say something really dumb here.

Would the carvex with the angled plate cut an accurate angle? [embarassed]

No it wouldn't.

Welcome to fog

 

[RONWEN]

Better tie that rope real close to the plug so it needs to be unplugged to use. I gave up a long time ago following any of Dino's  'contributions' but what can possibly be gained by making a plunge saw unable to be retracted? Oh, I forgot, any saw used with the EZ system keeps the blade guard from performing its function, so let's sabotage the Festool too. That way we're even. Both systems become equally unsafe. Give me a break.

I wanted to say the exact same thing, almost sentiment for sentiment, but knew it wouldn't come across as well as yours just did.

I had completely forgotten about ole' Dino...    [eek]

 

[peter halle]

Better tie that rope real close to the plug so it needs to be unplugged to use. I gave up a long time ago following any of Dino's  'contributions' but what can possibly be gained by making a plunge saw unable to be retracted? Oh, I forgot, any saw used with the EZ system keeps the blade guard from performing its function, so let's sabotage the Festool too. That way we're even. Both systems become equally unsafe. Give me a break.

I wanted to say the exact same thing, almost sentiment for sentiment, but knew it wouldn't come across as well as yours just did.

I had completely forgotten about ole' Dino...    [eek]

We haven't. 

Regarding the question, a spinning blade saw will give you far better results in your situation.

Peter