Need advice from someone with Hammer N4400 who likes it

[billberner]

I had seen in other threads notes from people saying they had a Hammer N4400 and liked it. I'm hoping I can get some help from one of you.  I bought one and have been very disappointed with it.

I mainly bought it to resaw lumber, and the first problem I had was that with a 3/4" blade and the tracking set the way the manual instructs (with the blade teeth hanging over the left side of the crown), the blade wandered horribly and I mostly just wasted wood.  I had read advice of someone who had the problem and fixed by resetting tracking so the blade was centered in the crown. That worked much better, but when I called Felder customer support, they were pretty adamant I should reset the tracking as instructed in the manual. If anyone's either had the machine work with the tracking set as described in the manual or set the tracking to the center of the crown and not had issues, I'd like to hear it.

The second issue I notice is that the fence is not perpendicular to the table, so all the cuts are wider on the top than on the bottom, and I can't see any easy way to adjust that. 

Lastly, I have the standard guides, not the ceramic guides.  Felder suggested maybe I buy the ceramic guides if I have problems with the blade wandering. I don't really feel like throwing more money at the problem before I've tried everything else. 

Thanks in advance for any advice. 

 

[egmiii]

I recently bought an FB510. Still setting up the shop so I haven't fired it up. But, while visiting Felder for some training, I was told to hang the teeth off the edge of the wheel. European bandsaws typically have flat wheels, so the Snodgrass method doesn't work. I'd double check if the N4400 has flat or crowned tires and select the correct placement on the wheel.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Crowned tires are so much easier to keep a blade tracking correctly, I don't understand the flat wheel way.

 

[bertv]

Crowned tires are so much easier to keep a blade tracking correctly, I don't understand the flat wheel way.

Flat wheels are easier on the blade. Less wear, less tear. More support. Less chance of compromising the teeth.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Crowned tires are so much easier to keep a blade tracking correctly, I don't understand the flat wheel way.

Flat wheels are easier on the blade. Less wear, less tear. More support. Less chance of compromising the teeth.

How? 

More support?

Compromise teeth?

It's a rubber tired wheel.

Resaws run on steel wheels, have for over a century.

 

[Andywoj]

I have a N440 and I like it very much.
I set my fence to be parallel with the miter slot.
Then I adjust the tracking until the blade cuts parallel and does not wander.
I do not care where it tracks on the wheel as long as it cuts parallel to the fence.
I use this tracking adjustment with 3/4" blades and 1//4" blades.
Works for me.
Andy

 

[junk731]

Darcy are the steels wheels for resawing that you are referring to crowned or flat? What are the width of the saw blades being used in these resaw machines?

 

[petar73]

Hello everyone, perhaps it is strange but I have been using bandsaws for over 25 years and I have never seen a bandsaw with crowned wheels, but then I have never used smaller than 600mm wheels bandsaw for resawing.

 

[HAXIT]

I have been resawing with n4400 a lot and did not have any problem. I do have the ceramic guides and they worth the money for sure.

 

[J0hn]

I don't have a Hammer bandsaw, but it your having problems with your blade tracking - have you seen this video by Alex Snodgrass?

 

[billberner]

I have watched the Snodgrass video and that's probably at least partially why I was wondering about the tracking method documented in the manual as the Snodgrass method is more or less completely opposite.  Per other responses to the thread, maybe that's because it has flat wheels.  I'll check that tomorrow. 

 

[alkaline]

my first experience with a hammer? here...
[attachimg=1]

Two things are required for proper machine operation. 1. Bimetal strip of first quality 2. ceramic guide. I'm sorry, otherwise it's a bother.
Have a nice sunday.

 

[Lbob131]

When the sparks are flying  the blade is  blunt  and I've seen it on my  N4400. I use  the tuff  saw  blades.
5/8" maximum  and can  slice    the full capacity  of the  N4400 without issue  on hardwoods.
I'd like the ceramic guide  set up but  for now I'll  make do and  keep using high  quality sharp blades.
I also  apply some lubricant to the  roller shaft  to ensure it turns freely.

 

[billberner]

I have not seen the sparks yet, but the saw is new, the blades are new.  I'm starting to think the ceramic guides are top of my list for Christmas.  Or Thanksgiving.  Or maybe Halloween. 

 

[ben_r_]

Had mine a couple years now and its been nothing but awesome for me. Though I havent done any resawing on it.

 

[derekcohen]

I have not experienced any issues with resawing in the 6 years I have had the N4400. Below is an example using a 1/2" Woodslicer blade. Incidentally, I do not like these blades as they wear quickly - I much prefer a 1" bi-metal Woodmaster 1 1/2 tpi for resawing. Note the widely set teeth - too many teeth and the gullets will clog  ..

The other aid is a resaw fence, which I made ..

I do not have - and never have had - the ceramic guides. The standard ones work just fine. The sparks in your photo appear to be coming from guides that are rubbing on the blade. They may be too far forward and touching the teeth.

The basic fence I received was a degree off. I filed down the runners until it was perfectly square.

The blades are placed on the wheels/tyres in such a way that they spin smoothly. I tighten them progressively. I make no issue of where they sit on the wheel. Tension must be correct for your size blade.

Check to see if the rubber drive band is tensioned tightly. If it is loose you will lose power. Too little power and the blade will wander.

Incidentally, I added a rule to my bandsaw. It is made from stainless steel. The screw holes are slotted to enable fine adjustments ..

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[billberner]

Thanks Derek.  I was just logging on to check if people doing resawing were using an auxiliary fence and you already answered that question.  In the pictures shown, it seems your fence is affixed to the standard fence just by a slot in the rear-most wooden support, is that right? 

 

[derekcohen]

Hi Bill

My apology for not replying sooner.

Yes, the auxiliary fence simply slides on and is a friction fit.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[billberner]

Based on the various feedback I received (thank you!) I both purchased the ceramic guides and I made a tall auxiliary resaw fence.  Now I seem to get cuts that are much smoother and straighter. That said, I do not seem to be able to adjust the ceramic guides so I do not get sparks.  The install manual indicates that you should back the guides off the blade if it is sparking, but I do that and it seems to spark worse.  and eventually I had them backed off more than I did for the standard guides, which doesn't make any sense.

Anyone else seen this?  Or know what I might try to eliminate the sparks? 

 

[bertv]

The ceramic guides on the sides need to slightly touch the blade. The one behind the blade should have a millimeter clearance (for the guys in the USA, Liberia and Myanmar that is about 1/24th of an inch). Tensioning correctly is important. The scale in the N4400 is not always correct. Try doing a twist or two more & see what happens.