Need advice on erasing a 35mm boo-boo.

butzla

butzla

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Feb 5, 2008
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This was my first attempt at drilling 35mm holes using the LR-32 guide rail and hole system.  To complicate things I was using the short rail on a pantry-sized door and I had a geriatric mental moment and drilled a hole in the wrong place.
My question is,  what's the best way to go about filling the hole?  The good news is that they will be painted so I'm looking for a good paintable medium.  I'm going to try auto-bondo unless I hear a better way here.  Thanks in advance
Jim
PS  Despite this mishap I really like using "the system" to drill cup hinge holes.  I previously used my drill press.  This is way more precise...and fun.  Just wish I had the longer rail.
 
Lucky its going to be painted. I would use MDF cut to the hole size and glue it in. I'm not very experienced though, and I'm sure someone will have a better solution than mine.
 
Yep Bondo for sure with paint grade. 5 - 10 minutes and done unless you have pin or air holes then another skim coat of bondo.
Prime the area for even paint saturation.
  I used bondo to fill a 35mm cup error  ::) no problem.

yea I wish I had the long LR 32 rail also. For tall pieces - Lining up the short rail and matching the holes, aligning and checking 2 -3 times before drilling is a real drag and invites errors. Oh lets just check it one more time just to be sure before we drill.
 
Who was it, can't remember, somebody suggested connecting a 'NON' LR rail to the end to keep it aligned. Sounded like a good idea, but I haven't tried it.
 
I think it may have been Dave who used a non hole rail with his 32mm rail in some of the work on his entertainment center...

Best,
Todd
 
Eli said:
Who was it, can't remember, somebody suggested connecting a 'NON' LR rail to the end to keep it aligned. Sounded like a good idea, but I haven't tried it.
Click to expand...

It was Brice who posted the idea of using a non-lr rail  (reply 44)http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=514.30
I just used a clamp at one end and let it rest on the door free at the other end, because 1.  I couldn't find my rail connectors and 2. It was only for 2 holes and wasn't worried about the rail moving so much.  Actually on 1 setup I forgot to use any clamps at all and it held just fine.  I think if I was drilling shelf standards I'd use Brice's suggestion.
 
Eli said:
Who was it, can't remember, somebody suggested connecting a 'NON' LR rail to the end to keep it aligned. Sounded like a good idea, but I haven't tried it.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have done that with success.  I showed Wayne my ~7ft tall cabinet with 5 rows of shelf pin holes on each side.  They all line up front to rear and left side with right side as desired.

Dave R.
 
What about using some sawdust out of your collector and some woodglue...make a slurry out of that to fill.  Experiment with how much wood glue to add to the sawdust.
 
Barry,  You're talking about a hole that's 1 3/8" wide and 14mm deep.  Surely you jest.
 
No....wasn't "jestin"....just showin my ignorance!  I thought it might work??  Unless you're real good about cutting some sort of plug for it, you're gonna have to fill it with something?  Maybe a combination of both....fill the hole up mostly with the plug...then fill the rest with.....

hell just use the bondo!  :)
 
In the bondo department, I have had good experience with the Evercoat Formula 27, which is the marine equivalent of bondo. For a paint-grade missap like the above, I would think a couple quick coats would do the long-term trick...
 
The main problem I see with using a filler like Bondo is that the Bondo will not expand and contract at the same rate as the wood and over time the two will shrink away from each other exposing the patch.  I would use a wood patch of the same species and grain orientation if at all possible...commonly called a "Dutchman".  One of the router inlay template guide bushings could be used to make the "Dutchman" or it can be cut out and then traced around with an X-acto knife and chiseled out to fit. 

Or in some cases it may just be faster to cut apart the door and make needed replacement parts and redo the door.  The beauty of woodworking....so many ways to accomplish the task...

Best,
Todd
 
--yes, for sure, a dutchman is a better solution, I agree with you! One can get pretty creative, even with stain grade, and who's to ever know ??
 
Todd....surely you must be jesting... :)  Tim I couldn't help it!

Put some SAWDUST in that puppy!
 
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