Need recommendations on dovetail jigs

Neill said:
Ron,

You know John.  He likes to let his tools acclimate to the surroundings before he uses them.   [wink] [smile]

No use rushing into anything.  [smile]

I'm still trying to find the best place to set it up.
 
I have the redesigned Porter Cable which is very similar to the Leigh DT jig.  I have not made many DT's but it seems to work very nice.  It does need to be dialed in initially but once you get that done it works good.
 
sancho57 said:
But for basic run of the mill dove tailing and ease of use, Im loking hard at the Keller jig. It does thru DT/ Box joints only. But it isnt limited to length or material thckness. You can dove tail to infinity with it.

I have a Keller 1600, and while it is easy to use, it isn't a good choice if you are making lots of drawers. Or at least, it hasn't been for me. It requires that you transfer the pin positions onto the tail board (or vice versa... its been awhile). Too slow and fixxy for me, so I eventually got stop blocks set up that sped up the process, but by the time I finally had a pair of matched drawers, I believe that it would have been faster to gnaw the wood with my teeth. I have been looking hard at both the Leigh and PC jigs, but have not made the jump yet.

Jim Ray
 
I have a Leigh D4R (previous model; new one is identical, called 'D4R Pro' and comes with stuff for one-pass half-blinds).  When I redo my kitchen, I'll pull it out as the setup for throughs is really easy, thanks to a very well written manual.

A less expensive, but nearly equally functional version are the 'Super' series.  Available in 12", 18" and 24" widths.  Only difference between them and the D4R Pro are the number of optional templates available.  The Isolocks are initially interesting.  Initially.  I wouldn't care about having fewer options in those.  The supers have fewer finger-joint sizes you can do than the D4R Pro, but 6 sizes should suffice.  If you make super deep drawers or chests, maybe the 18" would be useful over the 12", but the 24" is only necessary if you are making a lot of hope chests.

For a couple drawers, I'd rather hand-cut them simply because by the time I set it up, I'd have the first drawer done.  By the time I'd get some test cuts to calibrate the template, I'd have the second done.  It would probably only make sense for me if I had 6 or more drawers.  That said, though, when I do my kitchen, I may hand cut them all for the practice.

If you are in it commercially, I'd likely setup the jig with a couple layouts, calibrate once, and leave it.
 
iv used a leigh jig for finger joints and found it a pain to use . you had to set each part of the template seperatly and fiddle with the tapered guide bush to get the fit right. it would never stay right for more than 2 sides.definetly get one of the ones with less adjustability and things to have to set
 
Alan m said:
iv used a leigh jig for finger joints and found it a pain to use . you had to set each part of the template seperatly and fiddle with the tapered guide bush to get the fit right. it would never stay right for more than 2 sides.definetly get one of the ones with less adjustability and things to have to set

Good to know about the finger joint templates; those came out after my model (think they come with the D4R Pro).
 
JimRay said:
sancho57 said:
But for basic run of the mill dove tailing and ease of use, Im loking hard at the Keller jig. It does thru DT/ Box joints only. But it isnt limited to length or material thckness. You can dove tail to infinity with it.

I have a Keller 1600, and while it is easy to use, it isn't a good choice if you are making lots of drawers. Or at least, it hasn't been for me. It requires that you transfer the pin positions onto the tail board (or vice versa... its been awhile). Too slow and fixxy for me, so I eventually got stop blocks set up that sped up the process, but by the time I finally had a pair of matched drawers, I believe that it would have been faster to gnaw the wood with my teeth. I have been looking hard at both the Leigh and PC jigs, but have not made the jump yet.

Jim Ray

Thanks ya saved me the money of getting one. Ill tick with my old pc until I find something better
 
I am just gonna jump in here and throw some kindling.
We use a leigh when we absolutely have to.
When I mean "have to", its for a pattern that's custom to the drawer size.
Remember I said kindling?
Well that's what I get because I habitually forget  set up procedures.
So, like any thing else, 8 hours a day for 5 days, yup, a week on the job,
I start to remember what I forgot after last months check cleared.
Lets not mention the fella I hired to to the job or Pops.
So here is the deal on all dovetail jigs.
They are fine for the artist the hobbyist and one off customs.
In the real world of cut throat cabinet making...........
Make the drawer faces and order the boxes.
The children will eat and the mortgage paid.

Per
 
Per Swenson said:
I am just gonna jump in here and throw some kindling.
We use a leigh when we absolutely have to.
When I mean "have to", its for a pattern that's custom to the drawer size.
Remember I said kindling?
Well that's what I get because I habitually forget  set up procedures.
So, like any thing else, 8 hours a day for 5 days, yup, a week on the job,
I start to remember what I forgot after last months check cleared.
Lets not mention the fella I hired to to the job or Pops.
So here is the deal on all dovetail jigs.
They are fine for the artist the hobbyist and one off customs.
In the real world of cut throat cabinet making...........
Make the drawer faces and order the boxes.
The children will eat and the mortgage paid.

Per

Maybe if you're a tradie ... shame though - lowest price seems to be turning the entire planet into a cheap department store
 
kev,

I know what it means
My question of course was rhetorical.
Think it fair to pigeonhole?
Or to assume before firing off such a missive?

The conversationalist answer that should of been given would be in what instance would a Leigh jig prevail in your
Construction considerations, assuming, cost, profit, and the holy shit factor of look what this guy built.

Only when the HSF factor is employed for future work form yon neighbors, or the customers peers.............

Per
 
Neill said:
RonWen said:
joraft said:
Neill said:
I have had the Leigh D4R for about 13 years and I find that it still works great. 

After doing a lot of research I bought a D4R about six months ago. The most common complaint I saw about it was the learning curve, but I've had absolutely no problem with that.

However that could change, since it's still in the sealed box
.  [big grin]

Ohhh John!!!   It doesn't require electricity (just for the routers).   [wink]  It really is a simple jig to use, the instructions walk you right through to success.  I didn't like changing bits back & forth so I bought two (2) Bosch routers for pins and tails.

Ron,

You know John.  He likes to let his tools acclimate to the surroundings before he uses them.   [wink] [smile]

Neill

I'm reminded of a year or two ago over on the other forum we were discussing ordering something (I forget what) pretty pricey, I think it was a Bridge City item -- John was rummaging around his "warehouse/shop" and found that item (along with others) unopened that he had forgotten he bought.  [blink]  Perhaps he'll chime in & fill in the details that I've forgotten although it quite possibly is a daily occurance for him.  [big grin]
 
Per Swenson said:
kev,

I know what it means
My question of course was rhetorical.
Think it fair to pigeonhole?
Or to assume before firing off such a missive?

The conversationalist answer that should of been given would be in what instance would a Leigh jig prevail in your
Construction considerations, assuming, cost, profit, and the holy stuff factor of look what this guy built.

Only when the HSF factor is employed for future work form yon neighbors, or the customers peers.............

Per

Per,

I'll assume you will reread this and realise you're making some poor choices in your response.

Have a Merry Christmas my friend, take care not to fall into any pigeon holes and keep clear of any dangerous flying missives.

Kev.
 
Don T said:
I have the redesigned Porter Cable which is very similar to the Leigh DT jig.  I have not made many DT's but it seems to work very nice.  It does need to be dialed in initially but once you get that done it works good.

I recently used this jig to make DT's (front/rear) on 12 drawers for our kitchen. Took no time at all. I have had a few other jigs and his one is by far the easiest to set up. It also had excellent dust collection with the optional accessory. I bought the extra templates for it too. Just remember which ever jig you get make sure you have the bit perfectly centered in the guide bushing - DAMHIKT. I know this is a Festool site but I used my new Bosch MRC23EVSK and having on/off control at the finger tip is perfect for these DT jigs.

Mike
 
I'm reminded of a year or two ago over on the other forum we were discussing ordering something (I forget what) pretty pricey, I think it was a Bridge City item -- John was rummaging around his "warehouse/shop" and found that item (along with others) unopened that he had forgotten he bought.   [blink]  Perhaps he'll chime in & fill in the details that I've forgotten although it quite possibly is a daily occurance for him.   [big grin]
[/quote]

Ron,

I recall that as well, but like you, not the details.  I am sure Mr. Rafferty will refresh our memories.  [scratch chin]

I think his methodology is to buy a tool and set it aside.  Then when he goes to use it he won't because it has developed into an antique with a beautiful patina. 

I'll bet no one takes more kidding or is more appreciated than anyone else in this Forum.

Neill
 
I sit here intimidated by your slide show, Per. Geez. But as to productivity when working as a journeyman, it is possible with a $1000 investment in machines called a WoodRat or the later, improved Router Boss.

My first time out, I made 9 dovetail drawers in about 2 hours on the WoodRat. Had some prior experience on the machine, but not at cutting dovetails. And because both machines use HSS router bits, you can cut 8° tails, thus mimicking handcut work. 
 
There is no better for me than Akeda:

http://www.akeda.com/

You won't be disappointed if you get this system, I have tried just about everything and definitely all the big names in dovetail jigs, Akeda is simply the best.
 
Back
Top