Neill said:Ron,
You know John. He likes to let his tools acclimate to the surroundings before he uses them. [wink] [smile]
No use rushing into anything. [smile]
I'm still trying to find the best place to set it up.
Neill said:Ron,
You know John. He likes to let his tools acclimate to the surroundings before he uses them. [wink] [smile]
sancho57 said:But for basic run of the mill dove tailing and ease of use, Im loking hard at the Keller jig. It does thru DT/ Box joints only. But it isnt limited to length or material thckness. You can dove tail to infinity with it.
JimRay said:[I believe that it would have been faster to gnaw the wood with my teeth.
Jim Ray
Alan m said:iv used a leigh jig for finger joints and found it a pain to use . you had to set each part of the template seperatly and fiddle with the tapered guide bush to get the fit right. it would never stay right for more than 2 sides.definetly get one of the ones with less adjustability and things to have to set
JimRay said:sancho57 said:But for basic run of the mill dove tailing and ease of use, Im loking hard at the Keller jig. It does thru DT/ Box joints only. But it isnt limited to length or material thckness. You can dove tail to infinity with it.
I have a Keller 1600, and while it is easy to use, it isn't a good choice if you are making lots of drawers. Or at least, it hasn't been for me. It requires that you transfer the pin positions onto the tail board (or vice versa... its been awhile). Too slow and fixxy for me, so I eventually got stop blocks set up that sped up the process, but by the time I finally had a pair of matched drawers, I believe that it would have been faster to gnaw the wood with my teeth. I have been looking hard at both the Leigh and PC jigs, but have not made the jump yet.
Jim Ray
Per Swenson said:I am just gonna jump in here and throw some kindling.
We use a leigh when we absolutely have to.
When I mean "have to", its for a pattern that's custom to the drawer size.
Remember I said kindling?
Well that's what I get because I habitually forget set up procedures.
So, like any thing else, 8 hours a day for 5 days, yup, a week on the job,
I start to remember what I forgot after last months check cleared.
Lets not mention the fella I hired to to the job or Pops.
So here is the deal on all dovetail jigs.
They are fine for the artist the hobbyist and one off customs.
In the real world of cut throat cabinet making...........
Make the drawer faces and order the boxes.
The children will eat and the mortgage paid.
Per
Neill said:RonWen said:joraft said:Neill said:I have had the Leigh D4R for about 13 years and I find that it still works great.
After doing a lot of research I bought a D4R about six months ago. The most common complaint I saw about it was the learning curve, but I've had absolutely no problem with that.
However that could change, since it's still in the sealed box. [big grin]
Ohhh John!!! It doesn't require electricity (just for the routers). [wink] It really is a simple jig to use, the instructions walk you right through to success. I didn't like changing bits back & forth so I bought two (2) Bosch routers for pins and tails.
Ron,
You know John. He likes to let his tools acclimate to the surroundings before he uses them. [wink] [smile]
Neill
Per Swenson said:kev,
I know what it means
My question of course was rhetorical.
Think it fair to pigeonhole?
Or to assume before firing off such a missive?
The conversationalist answer that should of been given would be in what instance would a Leigh jig prevail in your
Construction considerations, assuming, cost, profit, and the holy stuff factor of look what this guy built.
Only when the HSF factor is employed for future work form yon neighbors, or the customers peers.............
Per
Don T said:I have the redesigned Porter Cable which is very similar to the Leigh DT jig. I have not made many DT's but it seems to work very nice. It does need to be dialed in initially but once you get that done it works good.