Need to put up a lot of batons onto masonary

[bobtskutter]

Hello FOG, someones been decorating

I need to put up a lot of timber batons onto masonry walls to hold insulation and eventually plywood sheeting. (I'm insulating and ply lining my garage).

I was planning to use concrete screws. I've just been practicing with some concrete screws into some spare bricks. I've used an impact driver to put the screws in and the driver seems too powerful and the self cutting thread in the bricks breaks off.

What do others use to attached lots of timber to masonry walls?

Thanks
Bob

 

[Econoline]

Designed for anchoring to brick. There must be an equivalent anchor made in the UK?

Zamak Zinc Alloy Double Expansion Shield Anchors

Check out the deal on Zamak Zinc Alloy Double Expansion Shield Anchors at Albany County Fasteners

www.albanycountyfasteners.com

E.

 

[demographic]

Torx head concrete fixings.
Depending on how hard the wall is I either predrill at 6mm or if its very hard 6.5mm
Like these.Clicky here.

 

[Coen]

Take your pick;

Frame fixings - fischer fixings

Plastic frame fixings are the ideal solution for the fixing of façade constructions, roof substructures, heavy wall cabinets, squared timbers, cable trays, gates and doors. With the long plug shaft, these can be directly secured in the building substrate through the attachment part. The...

www.fischer.co.uk

But why the timber? It's a weakpoint in the insulation. I would just glue or screw PIR boards to the wall.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Nip down to your local tool hire place and rent a Hilti DX460 Bob. You’ll have the entire job done in no time. The nails come in a variety of lengths and types - they need to be half as long again as the batten thickness, and flat-headed.

 

[bobtskutter]

@woodbutcherbower WHAT THE! Nails? That must have some power to drive nails into masonry.

I'm planning on 25mm x 50mm x 2.4m battens, 80 of them. Then two "layers" to sandwich the insulation.

For those that use concrete screws, do you use an impact driver to install them?

Thanks
Bob

 

[woodbutcherbower]

@bobtskutter

@woodbutcherbower WHAT THE! Nails? That must have some power to drive nails into masonry.

I'm planning on 25mm x 50mm x 2.4m battens, 80 of them. Then two "layers" to sandwich the insulation.

For those that use concrete screws, do you use an impact driver to install them?

Thanks
Bob

The DX460 will drive nails into steel girders, mate - seriously. Beast of a machine. I’ve used it frequently for exactly the task you describe. Three nails per batten - and you’ll be able to anchor your battleship to them.

 

[Packard]

I attached studs to interior walls (cinder block) using .22 caliber explosive drive. The cheaper versions are well within reach. But note, I have not tried to shoot into brick.

Curious: Wouldn’t it be easier to insulate the interior of the garage? Foam panels have a higher insulation value and can install with construction adhesive.

I see single shot guns under $40.00 US$. Faster than drilling and less work too.

But note: These come in various loads depending upon the surface being attached to. And while the cinderblock walls accepted the nails with a light load, even the heaviest loads could not penetrate the poured concrete floors.

 

[squall_line]

I attached studs to interior walls (cinder block) using .22 caliber explosive drive.

The Hilti DX460 that @woodbutcherbower referenced is exactly such a device: a powder-actuated nail driver.

 

[Packard]

The Hilti DX460 that @woodbutcherbower referenced is exactly such a device: a powder-actuated nail driver.

I missed that. My apologies.

For some reason, the builder of my house used, what I was told, “hardened concrete” for the poured basement floor. Not only did it defelct even the highest powered powder charge, it wore out the carbide tipped drill bits after 3 or 4 holes. I used just 3 screws for each run of 8’ and plenty of construction adhesive.

I have never heard the term “hardened concrete” before or since.

My home was the builder’s own home while his crew was building the 20 or so homes in the area. He used some “upgrades”, including 3” x 8” floor joists where 2” x 8” were all that were called for. He also used a hybrid plaster wall system, which was 1-1/2” thick plaster with steel mesh in panels of 3’ x 12’.

On the walls it worked fine and has the advantage of sound deadening and WiFi signal killing. On the ceilings they should have used tape like on drywall. I tried just using plaster to patch, but I will have to re-do that with tape.

I have had qualified success with the .22 charged drive system.

 

[bobtskutter]

I'm not sure I trust myself using a power-actuated nail driver
These are the type of bricks the garage is built with


(did you know you can resize the image after you insert it???)

I'd be worried about blowing the bricks to pieces and feel more confident using screws and plastic plugs. It's what I'm familiar with.

This is what I'm aiming for:
brick, batten, foil insulation, then batten, then plywood.



Regards
Bob

 

[Packard]

The nail driver will only fire if you are pressing the feed end firmly against a solid object. I suppose you could press it against someone’s skull, but an accidental injury seems unlikely. I never felt at risk when I used mine and it predates YouTube for instructions.

A useful tool and always seemed less dangerous than my table saw or radial arm saw.

 

[pixelated]

I’ve used GRK “Caliburn” screws in concrete, with pilot holes drilled with a rotary hammer. This was to anchor some walls. Worked well for my needs, but I’ve not tried them with brick.

 

[Econoline]

Probably the best episode from The Wire...

 

[Cheese]

I've used a Remington 476 hand tool and a Remington 490 gun style, the gun style is a lot easier to use and not that much more expensive. I don't think Remington powder actuated tools are made anymore after Remington filed for bankruptcy.

Ramset & Hilti both have similar offerings although they're much more expensive. There are at least 3-4 different power level cartridges to choose from depending upon the substrate you're mounting to and the thickness of material.

Here's an example to get you started.

Direct fastening tools

Shop our full range of fully automatic and semi-automatic direct fastening tools - from cordless nailers to powder- and gas-actuated fasteners, our tools are designed to increase productivity and reliability when fastening insulation boards, metal decks, and gratings to concrete, masonry, and steel

www.hilti.com

 

[Mini Me]

I renovated a building I had fitted out using construction adhesive about 30 years before and it had turned to powder. I made a promise to never use it again, I had heard that it did exactly what I found but now I have seen what happens I am a believer.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Probably the best episode from The Wire...

I think I need sub titles! ;-)

 

[luvmytoolz]

I renovated a building I had fitted out using construction adhesive about 30 years before and it had turned to powder. I made a promise to never use it again, I had heard that it did exactly what I found but now I have seen what happens I am a believer.

You mean like Liquid Nails, etc?

 

[Cheese]

I renovated a building I had fitted out using construction adhesive about 30 years before and it had turned to powder. I made a promise to never use it again, I had heard that it did exactly what I found but now I have seen what happens I am a believer.

I'm also curious what construction adhesive you used.

 

[Packard]

I’ve dismantled a structure I made in the basement of my house that used (I believe) Liquid Nails. It was difficult to break the bond of the adhesive, but once done, it crumbled into small pieces and those pieces would crumble into a mixture that resembled powder mixed with fine sand.

It was in no ways flexible, and the brittleness did not seem to compromise the holding power, but definitely the antithesis of silicone adhesive.

I have always assumed that the various construction adhesives were basically the same.