New workshop build

[HAXIT]

[member=63059]HAXIT[/member] have you checked the floor thickness at the location to whih you will move the post?  The appearance of the overall original construction looks like there is no problem.  However, whenever a row of posts  ar installed, there should be either a continuos footing or a footing under eack post.  I don't know how much weight is involved or even the thickness of the floor.  If i were doing the job, i would very definitely check before moving the post.  In previous pics, it appeas the beam is steel, but I am not certain. Checking is just an old habit.  A few years ago, i looked at a job that was going to support five fireplaces and a couple of support beams at two floors.  The first thing I noticed was there was a side wall that had been constructed because the builder had made a 8 foot error in placement of the wall.  The concrete floor had already been poured.  I told the builder I would not do an estimate until i had proof the chimney footing was in the right place.  After considerable argument, I walked away.  Ten years later the main part of the house was torn down. I never checked on why.  It was not in my town.  I just thought that maybe that chimney could  be the culprit and just maby it was creating a major problem starting at cellar floor level. >>> or below.
Tinker

Yes, I would never dare to do it before checking it with people that I can trust. I did this few years ago and even brought some of them here and showed them that what is going on but I never got the time to do it, now I have no choice and it has to be done. The beam is steel and thank for your concern.

 

[HAXIT]

Project is looking great. Everything is nice and clean and organized looking. I suspect you may have OCD as I do

Thought about what you are going to do with the floors? Polished and then possibly stained would look great and would be easy for cleanup. I'm thinking of doing this with my garage workshop (once I finally get it cleaned and organized). If you put in a big Festool logo maybe they will sponsor some of your renovation??? Yeah I know, probably wishful thinking, haha.

Following your progress.

Thanks, the floor is going to be 100% solids epoxy and I will explain everything I do. This is not what people think or buy about epoxy flooring.

 

[HAXIT]

Well, today I finished filling inside the wall and between the joists with Roxul safe n sound and boxed all the duct work.

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[HAXIT]

It Looks like every time I try to post 6 pictures same time I go over the limit and it does not work, so I stay on 5 in several posts.
Here is the last pic from yesterday work.

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I tried everything they claimed about this Roxul safe n sound and it does it well. I filled in every openings including under the stairs. It comes in 3" thickness only but I double it up where ever it needed to cover everything up.
I am not a huge fun of what manufactures said about their product unless I try it myself and not effected by reading the reviews.
The result is already very impressive without having any type of drywall here! Yesterday, when I was almost finished but not completed, I opened the door to go upstairs for the short break and a cop of tea and I saw three people were standing behind the door and talking, I asked them when did they come down stairs and respond was 5 minutes ago. Not only I did not hear the footsteps but I could not hear the conversation too. Now they told me that they were thinking I was in the garage because it was quite up stairs.[eek]
I was listening to Iron Maiden all day, I think this Roxul already passed the test for me.[big grin] [thumbs up]

 

[rljatl]

How did you attach the wood to the metal ductwork?

 

[HAXIT]

How did you attach the wood to the metal ductwork?

I did not. They are only screwed to the joists and each other.

 

[HAXIT]

The next step is to hang the soundproofing drywall and painting. I have no past experience about the soundproofing drywall and after a long time research I was going to order the quiet rock 530. At the last minute I met a contractor that had a lot of experience on this and he told me I better be buying soundbreak xp instead of quiet rock. And he mentioned that it is very important to leave a 1/4 inch gap between the wall and the floor where the drywall is about to be attached and fill the gap with OSI SC175 draft and acoustical sound sealant. OK, now I started to asking people I know again for this two products and nobody gave me a single negative answer and they encouraged me to go for it. What they did not tell me was none of them are easy to work with and most of the time they do not want to sell it to you if you do not have account with them or not willing to buy a whole skid. But I was able to get what I need by help and yes it is bloody expensive and not easy to use.

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[CarolinaNomad]

Habit,  have you slept any since the project started?  It seems like yesterday you got started.  Great work!

Hope you placed some plastic or something under the bottom plate of wall.

 

[nickao]

I am using the 5/8" XP for the next layer of my entire shop, ceiling too and its fire rated Type X. I dont think the 1/2" XP is.  I think thats your basement, I might consider using the 5/8", at least on the ceiling.

My brother is telling me the Georgia Pacific is better and this Purple XP stuff is prone to very easy edge breakage.

This product cost a heck of a lot more money than regular drywall, I am hoping it works out for me.

 

[HAXIT]

Habit,  have you slept any since the project started?  It seems like yesterday you got started.  Great work!

Hope you placed some plastic or something under the bottom plate of wall.

Forget about the sleep and help the hunger! It is unbelievable how fast the time goes by down there. Since I started, I have been on two meal a day keep forgetting the lunch.
The bottom plate and the three stringers for new stairs are pressure treated.   

 

[HAXIT]

I am using the 5/8" XP for the next layer of my entire shop, ceiling too and its fire rated Type X. I dont think the 1/2" XP is.  I think thats your basement, I might consider using the 5/8", at least on the ceiling.

My brother is telling me the Georgia Pacific is better and this Purple XP stuff is prone to very easy edge breakage.

This product cost a heck of a lot more money than regular drywall, I am hoping it works out for me.

Yes,it is the fire rated 5/8" xp that I am using. The few places that I called, they said they do not sell the 1/2" due to lack of customers. If this won't work, then I wasted a big money.

 

[HAXIT]

Hi Folks,
The wall and ceiling is done. I have been working on this since Sunday. This is just primer and one coat of paint but I will put another coat all over the shop after grinding the floor is done.

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Floor is next, Tomorrow, I am leaving at lunch time and I called the local hardware store to deliver the concrete grinder at 1pm for me. If nothing goes wrong, I think I will finish it about 5 hours. The floor is going to be 100% solid industrial epoxy and will be done in 4 steps. Another good news that I had today was, my two machines are finally here and will be deliver to me on Friday morning.
 

 

[Tinker]

[member=63059]HAXIT[/member] Don't forget to seal all duct openings and doorways.  The dust from grinding of concrete can permeaeevery room in the house.  Don't ask how I know. 

Oh, what the heck, I can't resist.  I once ran into a delivery problem with a floor pour in cold weather. First load came right on time. first  delivery in morning from supplier.  second was supposed to arrive at 8:30 or 9 o'clock.  It finally arrived, after burning phone lines, at around 4pm and getting dark with temp plummeting into the twenties.  Needless to say, some serious repairs were required later on. I rented a grinder for a day during Christmas/New Year week while owner would be away on Ski trip.  I sealed all doorways into the main house and proceded to grind away. A dayor so after New Years Day, I got a call from the builder on the job to call the owners.

The owners happened to be a pair of Cranky Yankees from the  hills of Vermont.  I had really hit it off with them as they were he sort of people and humor that I had grown up with in he Berkshire hills of Massachusetts.  I liked them and he felig was reciprocal. I called as directed.  Isthmus they had jut gotten home about two hours earlier and from the ton of he man's voice and the ringing in my ears, I could sense a little, this is a story about a Cranky Yankee, remember!. That phone was exploding in my ear.

It seems they were greeted with a hin film of white dust over everything in the house. The dut had permeated to even between bed sheets and all closeted clothing. I offered to come over to help with the cleaning.

"Tinker!!!  If you show your face in this house, I'll kill you!!!!!"

We did end up as friends once again, but it was my good forune they were the sort of family who did not carry a grudge.  I did many more jobs for them.  when i retired from mason biz, i even took care of their yard for a few years until they moved away.

What had caused the dust problem? Even though i sealed all doorways, i had forgoten about closing off heating return duct covers.

I can immagine that with your attention to detail, you would not make a mitook like that, but just thought i'd remind you. :
Tinker

 

[HAXIT]

Tinker,
Your reminding is much appreciated.

 

[HAXIT]

Even though, I was sure that my concrete floor had no moisture but again I did the test before order anything just to make sure.
I taped dawn a 2' x 3' plastic on the floor and opened it up after 24 hours. If you can see any concrete discoloration, moister or water dripping from the plastic, then epoxy flooring would not be a good idea but the test result was very promising.

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Here is how the floor is looks like before.

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[HAXIT]

Step 1: Concrete prep
I know that the most popular and cheapest way is acid wash but I do not like the method. The concrete prep is the heart of this process and should not be undertaken if good flooring result is desired.
This is how I set it up to minimize the dust. I changed the regular filter in the shop vac and replace it with the universal concrete dust filter and put two fans in the front of the windows. I took this picture before covering the duct opening and electric panel but they will be closed. The duct opening will stay closed all the time till end of the project because I want to maintain the even temperature and humidity.

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I finished grinding in 4 hours and vacuumed three times to make sure there is no dust left on the floor. Here how it is looks like now.

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[HAXIT]

Step 2: The floor is covered with epoxy primer and checking for desired  humidity and temperature.

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[HAXIT]

It is finally here.

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[Tinker]

I'm assuming that is a garage, and not that you tore everything apart.  [scared]

BTW Your floor, as everything else you have done, looks great. As long as the floor is not wet underneath the concrete, you should have no problem except possibly from condensation. If the subfloor is wet (it appears not to be) you can xpect condensation problems.
Tinker

 

[RENO]

Your workshop is gonna look great Haxit  !!