Newbie question with 0S1400
- Thread starter fesman
- Start date
fesman says assembled, so a slot cutter is definitely the way to go.
Lee Valley sells cutters specifically for box slots:
Image shows part numbers to use at http://www.leevalley.com
There's nothing special about these except the proportions of cutter and bearing. Any slot cutter with the right size bearing will work. You may need two passes, adjusting the height, for the slots you want.
BTW, Lee Valley also sells the Veritas 4-way Speed Clamp, which works well to hold unglued parts together for the slot cutting.
Ned
Lee Valley sells cutters specifically for box slots:
Image shows part numbers to use at http://www.leevalley.com
There's nothing special about these except the proportions of cutter and bearing. Any slot cutter with the right size bearing will work. You may need two passes, adjusting the height, for the slots you want.
BTW, Lee Valley also sells the Veritas 4-way Speed Clamp, which works well to hold unglued parts together for the slot cutting.
Ned
Steve Jones
Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2007
- Messages
- 405
Fesman,
I think your asking axactly what you said - you want a rabbet set into the inside of the frame.
Simplest way is with a rabbeting bit, (which looks like the slot cutters shown above but with greater cutting height) but you can only go so far with depth - but depth of your rabbet is limited by the bearing screw meeting the panel (which is pretty limited).
Another method involves more settup - but works:
I have done the task on a router table - set the fence so the gap betweet the closest blade tip and the fence is 1 1/2" (to leave your 1/2" rabbet width from 2" frame) - set bit height above table to 3/8" (reverse settings if I got your numbers backwards) - and mark your fence 1 1/2" from the center bit both sides.
Place the frame rabbet side down - sitting on one edge - against the fence (so your clear of the bit somewhere near the center) lower the frame flat while moving it side to side until flat (most large bits won't plunge well, but all will cut to lower themselves if moving sideways)
Keep the frame firmly against the fence - slide until the trailing edge aligns with the mark on it's side - then slide unitl the other edge aligns with it's closest mark - half of this operation will be making a "lifting" cut, the router bit will be pushing the frame away from the fence - so move slowly and hold frame firmly against the fence - then slide back towards center and keeping tight against fence, lift one edge until you clear the bit - remove frame, rotate to next side and repeat.
I have done this procedure several times, it works - main possibility of error is any gap between frame and fence will make a wider dado at that point - and when you get moving in the wrong direction there is a possibility of the bit grabbing the frame on the climbing cut and slamming the frame sideways and making a groove where you don't want it right throught the side.
With a 1/2" dado, depending on material and time constraints - either go very slowly or take several bites (work up to the full 1/2") but to do that you'll need multiple marks on the fence (use pencil).
Hope this all makes sense - let me know if I missed anything out - or something is not clear.
I think your asking axactly what you said - you want a rabbet set into the inside of the frame.
Simplest way is with a rabbeting bit, (which looks like the slot cutters shown above but with greater cutting height) but you can only go so far with depth - but depth of your rabbet is limited by the bearing screw meeting the panel (which is pretty limited).
Another method involves more settup - but works:
I have done the task on a router table - set the fence so the gap betweet the closest blade tip and the fence is 1 1/2" (to leave your 1/2" rabbet width from 2" frame) - set bit height above table to 3/8" (reverse settings if I got your numbers backwards) - and mark your fence 1 1/2" from the center bit both sides.
Place the frame rabbet side down - sitting on one edge - against the fence (so your clear of the bit somewhere near the center) lower the frame flat while moving it side to side until flat (most large bits won't plunge well, but all will cut to lower themselves if moving sideways)
Keep the frame firmly against the fence - slide until the trailing edge aligns with the mark on it's side - then slide unitl the other edge aligns with it's closest mark - half of this operation will be making a "lifting" cut, the router bit will be pushing the frame away from the fence - so move slowly and hold frame firmly against the fence - then slide back towards center and keeping tight against fence, lift one edge until you clear the bit - remove frame, rotate to next side and repeat.
I have done this procedure several times, it works - main possibility of error is any gap between frame and fence will make a wider dado at that point - and when you get moving in the wrong direction there is a possibility of the bit grabbing the frame on the climbing cut and slamming the frame sideways and making a groove where you don't want it right throught the side.
With a 1/2" dado, depending on material and time constraints - either go very slowly or take several bites (work up to the full 1/2") but to do that you'll need multiple marks on the fence (use pencil).
Hope this all makes sense - let me know if I missed anything out - or something is not clear.
Mr. Jones reply is what i am trying to accomplish. Let me try and clarify my orginal question. I have glued and screwed door frames (maple). I want to cut and place a 3/8" thick panel flush with the back of the frame. Based on Mr. Jones reply, it appears that had I been thinking, I should of made the rabbet before assembling the frames. I guess rookies will always do stupid things. Anyway, having fun learning and greatful to have this forum as a resource.
If you're just cutting a rabbet into an existing door frame, I would go with one of Lee Valley's rabbeting bits, and do it free-hand with your router. I do this all the time, though you have to be very careful not to tilt the router as you're walking around the frame. With the bearing on the bit, you don't have to worry about the width of the rabbet - it's set by the diameter of the cutter vs. the diameter of the bearing. You should sneak down on the exact depth, doing several shallow passes rather than one deep one. It's easier on the cutter, and gives you more time to practice getting the motion right. Make sure you go the correct direction - clockwise for an inside panel.
This, of course, depends on your door frame. Won't work very well if the frame is not flat - you need a good base for the router to sit on. If you have a flat table, the outrigger leg of the Festool routers will keep the router stable inside the door frame (the outrigger can get hung up in the MFT holes...).
You'll have to square off the corners after you rout, as they'll be rounded in the rabbet (but not in the door frame).
This, of course, depends on your door frame. Won't work very well if the frame is not flat - you need a good base for the router to sit on. If you have a flat table, the outrigger leg of the Festool routers will keep the router stable inside the door frame (the outrigger can get hung up in the MFT holes...).
You'll have to square off the corners after you rout, as they'll be rounded in the rabbet (but not in the door frame).
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