Nova Voyager Drill Press

[thudchkr]

I use a surge arrestor because I have a DVR lathe in addition to the Voyager drill press. Where it gets more fun is when you want to run the unit on 220V, as I do for both units.

I ended up getting a surge arrestor that mounts in the breaker panel and protects both legs of power that way. Also means that all I had to do was plug it into my power outlet. (It helps when you have a separate breaker panel for the workshop.)

Another cool thing about the unit is that in order to run it on 220V, all you have to do is connect it to that power source. The unit automatically senses what power it’s connected to and operates the same regardless of the voltage from the power source. To keep things simple, I ended up just making a pigtail that plugs into my 220V outlet and has a female 110V outlet end. I just plug the Voyager’s 110V plug into the pigtail, and plug that into my 220V power source.

If I want/need to connect it to a 110V circuit instead, I need only unplug it from the pigtail and I’m good to go.

 

[nclemmons]

Edward

Do you not think you’ll make a full table with replaceable insert?  I took the metal insert out of my table and just use the laminated top.  I too found the metal insert was not seating the way it should.

Enjoy the DP.  And check for software updates.  As I said earlier you need a windows machine with a USB cable to update it.  It will run under parallels on a Mac as an emulator for windows.  But no native Mac updater is available.

 

[Bob D.]

So to update the DP software you need to have a Windows machine nearby (within connection distance).

Can't be loaded onto a USB drive that you insert then boot from or access the update file from the setup menu on the DP.

That would seem to make a notebook or laptop the way to go. I wouldn't want to drag one of my desktop machines out in the shop just to update the DP software.

 

[Mark Katz]

So to update the DP software you need to have a Windows machine nearby (within connection distance).

Well then, no Nova Voyager Drill Press for me. In our household we have 5 Macs of various flavors, 3 iPads of various vintages, 2 iPhones and a couple of Android phones. Damned if I'm going to buy a Windows machine (no matter how cheaply a basic one can be obtained) just for this one purpose. It's about time that they wrote an app for both IOS and Android that would do this one function.

It's not like the product just came out and they need a little extra time to get a phone app up and running.

 

[Bob D.]

Mark don't take my question as fact. I am asking if that is the case not stating that you need a windows computer to do the upgrades. While I am fairly sure that is what was said I'm asking for confirmation.

I agree that a smartphone app would be a lot easier for updating a machine such as this which is located in a spot not normally populated with a computer due to the dusty environment. And who has time for a computer anyway when you're doing something more important like working in the woodshop.

 

[Michael Kellough]

So to update the DP software you need to have a Windows machine nearby (within connection distance).

Well then, no Nova Voyager Drill Press for me. In our household we have 5 Macs of various flavors, 3 iPads of various vintages, 2 iPhones and a couple of Android phones. Damned if I'm going to buy a Windows machine (no matter how cheaply a basic one can be obtained) just for this one purpose. It's about time that they wrote an app for both IOS and Android that would do this one function.

It's not like the product just came out and they need a little extra time to get a phone app up and running.

I’ve been using Macs exclusively since the Mac SE but I bought an Asis notebook to activate the Voyager’s tapping feature.

Unfortunately the tapping feature only worked correctly about 10 percent of the time but when it did it was wonderful. Despite the disappointing unreliability of the tapping feature the other features allowed a fairly efficient workaround.

Between a keyless chuck (with wrench tightening option for reverse use) depth stop, forward/reverse, speed control (I think that’s all I used 2.5 years ago) I was able to drill and tap three dozen 1/2”-20 holes in 1-1/2” aluminum probably ten times faster than I could have with an ordinary drill press. Saved a lot more than the Asis notebook cost.

 

[nclemmons]

I use a Mac notebook running a windows emulator and windows SW.  Parallels emulator is about $40 plus a basic version of windows which you can find from $20 to $100 online.  Given the drill press is $1700, I would not let the price of software for a mac stop you from buying if that's what you have.

Given Voyager have only released a Windows updater, I would not hold my breath for a Mac, Andriod or IOS updater anytime soon.

It's a really nice drill press and I've found the SW updates worthwhile.  But I use windows for other applications in CNC use as well.

 

[Mark Katz]

Okay, [member=167]neilc[/member], I misread your earlier comment as the updater wouldn't run under Parallels on the Mac which is the opposite of what you said. I'd still have to bring a laptop out to do the updates but I guess that wouldn't be all that often.

Now I guess all I need to do is find a few square feet of floor space in my shop (easier said than done).

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Well quite surprisingly, my chuck issue didn’t improve.
I was asked to pack the chuck well before returning it. I did just that including a 6mmply box I made up for shipping.

The supplier tells me Rohm have still not got back to him with any kind of report but, did view the videos I sent which clearly showed the issue as being the chuck.
So I have now asked for a refund, which the supplier has agreed too. He has been fine to deal with apart from a language barrier. Rohm however, I’m disappointed with.
I have bought many of their products, mainly chucks and arbors, and thought they were a bit better than how they’ve acted on this.

The good news is, I will now buy an Albrecht. Not sure whether to marry it up with the new Rohm arbor, or buy an Albrecht and have done with it?

 

[Cheese]

The good news is, I will now buy an Albrecht. Not sure whether to marry it up with the new Rohm arbor, or buy an Albrecht and have done with it?

That's too bad Jiggy  [sad]  [sad]

I've married mine up with both Albrecht and Jacobs arbors...both work well.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Thanks Cheese, I will give it a try with the Rohm arbor, and I can always buy an Albrecht later I guess.

Thanks.

 

[thudchkr]

I’d probably stick the dial indicator on the Rohm, just to make sure I wasn’t seeing any measurable runout there. If so, then I’d go with the Albrecht arbor.

In for a penny, in for a pound, at this point.

 

[ear3]

[member=167]neilc[/member] Historically, the way I've used my drill press has not really required a table, and additionally, because of it's position in my shop -- right next to the bench -- I have to rotate the table or even the entire machine out of the way when, say, working on longer pieces on the bench, or using the frame saw to resaw things in the leg vise (which is also why I need to keep it on a mobile base).

[attachimg=1]

So I've always thought that setting up a more permanent DP table would create too much of an obstruction, as would the kind of fixed storage between the base of the column and the bottom of the table that some in this thread have done on their Nova.  I dunno -- I'll pay attention as I use the Nova more to whether my needs shift such that a table might make sense.

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] You have certainly demonstrated in other places on the FOG the possibilities for routing aluminum, so yeah, I was actually thinking about remaking the insert.  Question if I may -- I assume McMaster Carr is also the place to get the aluminum stock, but I'm unsure which of the specific options are appropriate.  The opening for the 3 1/4 diameter insert is exactly 1/8" deep, so I assume I would start with 1/8" aluminum sheet stock, but not sure which other parameters to choose from the various options offered by McMaster:https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-aluminum-sheets

I would probably cut it directly with the Shaper Origin (you can work on small pieces by setting up a tape board that borders the workpiece), or, if this for some reason doesn't work, make a template that I then flush trimmed on the router. 

Thanks,

ed

Edward

Do you not think you’ll make a full table with replaceable insert?  I took the metal insert out of my table and just use the laminated top.  I too found the metal insert was not seating the way it should.

Enjoy the DP.  And check for software updates.  As I said earlier you need a windows machine with a USB cable to update it.  It will run under parallels on a Mac as an emulator for windows.  But no native Mac updater is available.

 

[nclemmons]

Thanks for the photo and clarification. 

I buy metals from onlinemetals.com but McMaster is certainly a choice.

I'd use an O Flute bit.  This thread on Shaper community might be of interest to you.  I think you have to be a member to view which I know you are.
https://community.shapertools.com/t/single-pass-1-8-aluminum-cuts/2811

You might start with a larger piece with countersunk screws in the four corners outside the circle so the origin could clear it.  Route out a 1/8" indentation to capture the piece.  Screw in place, tape and cut.

You will want to use cutting wax for lubricant.  Amazon carries it in small quantities.

Good luck!

 

[sprior]

[member=167]neilc[/member]

I would probably cut it directly with the Shaper Origin (you can work on small pieces by setting up a tape board that borders the workpiece), or, if this for some reason doesn't work, make a template that I then flush trimmed on the router. 

Thanks,

ed

There's a trick for material hold down I've learned as a CNC user that you might try for this, it sounds hokey but it's very popular and works.  You stick blue painters tape to the bottom of the aluminum and also to whatever you want to temporarily mount it to.  Then you use super glue to glue the backs of the two tapes together.  It actually holds better than regular double sided tape and doesn't release due to heat generated from the cut and doesn't gum up the bit as much.  And you probably already have the stuff to try it.

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] You have certainly demonstrated in other places on the FOG the possibilities for routing aluminum, so yeah, I was actually thinking about remaking the insert.  Question if I may -- I assume McMaster Carr is also the place to get the aluminum stock, but I'm unsure which of the specific options are appropriate.  The opening for the 3 1/4 diameter insert is exactly 1/8" deep, so I assume I would start with 1/8" aluminum sheet stock, but not sure which other parameters to choose from the various options offered by McMaster:https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-aluminum-sheets

I would probably cut it directly with the Shaper Origin (you can work on small pieces by setting up a tape board that borders the workpiece), or, if this for some reason doesn't work, make a template that I then flush trimmed on the router. 

Hey Edward that first MC offering of 6061 sheet will work fine. Note to self, 5052 will also work well for any future projects.

The easiest method would be to cut it out using 2 hole saws. Whatever you want for the inside diameter and then a 3 3/8" one for the OD. On Milwaukee hole saws the wall thickness + tooth offset is right around .060" so a 3 3/8' hole saw should yield a 3 1/4" aluminum slug.

I just remembered, you also have a lathe so any final "fitting" could be done on the lathe using a "lathe file" and chucking up the aluminum disc by its inside diameter.
https://www.mcmaster.com/lathe-files

Lathe files are a must when used on a lathe. They don't load up, they remove material fast and leave a nice smooth surface.

I'd make 3-4 blanks so if you need something with a different ID on another project, you just need to drill the ID. I'd also drill either a 1/8" diameter or 1/4" diameter hole (that's the diameter of the hole saw pilot drill) in the center of each blank to allow for easy indexing at a later date on the drill press.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Forgot you have a Shaper. One of the first articles I read on using a Shaper for anything was a guy making flat aluminum plugs to fit a machine. Worked fantastically.

On the other hand, I (without a Shaper) wouldn’t bother trying to get a better fit on a plug that wouldn’t get used for anything. I think that poor fitting plug is just there to keep the chuck from falling through the hole and bouncing off the floor when you dislodge it from the arbor  [huh]

If I want to drill through wood I don’t want to drill into a metal disk. If I want to drill through metal I want to hold the piece in a vise.

I’d make a compact wood drilling table (with basic X/Y adjustment/clamping features) that is a snug fit over the steel table. You have a lot of options for supporting long stuff.

 

[ear3]

Thanks for the tips everyone.  I am soooo appreciating drilling at high speeds again on the Drill Press.  I was pretty lazy and didn't switch the belt positioning all that much on the old model, and so operated at a default slow speed to handle forstner bits. 

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

I’d probably stick the dial indicator on the Rohm, just to make sure I wasn’t seeing any measurable runout there. If so, then I’d go with the Albrecht arbor.

In for a penny, in for a pound, at this point.

Yes the Rohm arbor seems fine.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Thanks for the tips everyone.  I am soooo appreciating drilling at high speeds again on the Drill Press.  I was pretty lazy and didn't switch the belt positioning all that much on the old model, and so operated at a default slow speed to handle forstner bits.

Edward, I made a table for mine, as I really did need one. I also made a mobile base, which is safe and sound, and for added safety, I made up some 18 mm ply wall clamps, that clamp around the pillar.
When the wheels are locked and clamp tight, it really is solid.

I also added a Wixey laser, this has been a great addition, not only for quick line up but, also quick alignment of the table.
Once I’d lined my table up, I marked two reference points at the rear of the table. So whenever I move the table sideways, it takes seconds to return to dead centre.