OF-1400 - Stabilize Grooving Operation

[Jeff Zanin]

I am making a 25.4 (yes, 1") groove, 280mm long, final depth 10mm, in a piece of plywood that is 153mm wide, using the OF-1400, the "parallel side fence" SA-OF 1400, and the rods supplied with the OF-1400. 

This will be a series of passes to the final depth of 10mm, so it is important to avoid the bit wandering during the cut.

I have a second "parallel side fence", but the rods are not long enough to mount the second fence so as to capture the piece and prevent the bit from wandering.

A longer set of rods would be nice, and I may try to find something since I don't think these are available from Festool.

But for the two pieces I need right now, could I use a "guide rail adapter" FS-OF 1400 on the rods opposite the fence to capture the piece?  These seem flimsy compared to the fence, but they fit on the length of rod available, and I will only apply side pressure on the fence side, so it is just to prevent twisting or movement of the fence away from the edge of the piece.

 

[woodferret]

Could you get your hands on two trammel rods?

As for the FS-OF 1400, weren't people using it as an extended base?  I don't think it'd drop below the surface as you need.

 

[mino]

If I was doing this ad hoc, not other tools, no guide rails, etc. wanting absolute precision/clean cut, I would consider using a narrower bit for creating an initial groove. A 1/2" bit with two approximate passes should do, creating a groove that will be about 23 mm wide and 9 mm deep first.

Then a single pass with a sharp 1" bit. But that is my amateurish take ...

In reality, this is where a guide rail will go out, or, if I had it, the MFS system. Or some other jig. Basically anything that restricts the router movement from both sides.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Why not just use the 30mm template guide, and clamp strips of timber either side of where you want the groove?

 

[tsmi243]

Man, this job is just CRYING for a router table.  Are you sure you can't find a couple square feet of MDF, and drill a hole in it? 

If you're going to do it handheld, I would get some longer rods like you say.  Doubling up the edge guides will make a huge difference in the difficulty level. 

 

[bobtskutter]

Do you have the guide rail adapter? FS-OF 1400.  If yes, use the router on the rail, or dismantle the adaptor and use one of the grips on the ends of the parallel side fence rods.  You can then apply extra pressure to keep the parallel guide on the reference edge.

If you don't have the FS-OF 1400 you could just hold the rods.

Regards
Bob

 

[Packard]

If I understand this correctly, this is a pretty straightforward process if you ditch the track and make a template from 3/4” mdf or plywood and either use a guide bushing or a bearing guided bit.

This video shows the process.

 

[Jeff Zanin]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

[member=72072]woodferret[/member] is correct, the guide rail adapter is flush with the bottom of the router so does not capture the edge of the piece.

I considered a router table, and agree this is likely the best solution, my concern is that is is a blind cut so no way to exhaust chips until finishing each pass.

Although there are only two cuts, the pieces need to be symetrical, i.e. the groove positioned at the same distance from the reference edge on each.  So I wanted a setup that would register on the piece itself without a rail, guide blocks, etc.

The solution turned out to be two 36" x 5/16" round steel bar stock from Home Depot (C$20.84) and a minute on a bench grinder to bevel the ends.

There are not "Festool quality" but they fit without too much slop (slightly undersize, Festool are 8mm) and all knobs can be tightened down.  They are reasonably straight over the 36" length.

The photo shows the setup on a test piece.

[attachimg=1]

 

[tsmi243]

my concern is that is is a blind cut so no way to exhaust chips until finishing each pass.

You'll get enough air leaking in around the bit, chips will still extract OK. 

The shroud on the OF1010 has that removable insert to increase this, if you're still worried about it.  I don't remember off the top of my head if the 1400 has something similar?

 

[Packard]

Man, this job is just CRYING for a router table.  Are you sure you can't find a couple square feet of MDF, and drill a hole in it? 

If you're going to do it handheld, I would get some longer rods like you say.  Doubling up the edge guides will make a huge difference in the difficulty level.

My first router table was just a sheet of 3/4” plywood.  I used the router to thin out the area for mounting the router.  So no router plate.  Access to the router was super simple.  You can build one for about $30.00.

It seems he is not interested in the simplest way to accomplish this, but how to do so with the edge guide.

The 3 minute video I linked show how to make and use a template for dadoes, which essentially that is what appears he wants to make.