OF1010 calibration

[crustacean]

Hi,

Is it possible to calibrate the depth scale on a 1010 router? Mine reads -1 when I drop the black plastic pin, and I would like to adjust it to read 0.

I guess I could put a washer under the screw that holds the scale to lower it a bit, but is there a better way?

Thanks in advance.

 

[ear3]

[member=72722]crustacean[/member]  If I'm understanding correctly, the solution is simply that you can move the black plastic thing up and down relative to the scale.  It can be a little sticky sometimes, but it is supposed to move, which is part of how you set plunge depths to the relative zero of the workpiece on different projects.  The depth rod knob has to be locked first in order to slide the plastic up and down the scale

Hi,

Is it possible to calibrate the depth scale on a 1010 router? Mine reads -1 when I drop the black plastic pin, and I would like to adjust it to read 0.

I guess I could put a washer under the screw that holds the scale to lower it a bit, but is there a better way?

Thanks in advance.

 

[crustacean]

Actually, the problem is not the movement of the black piece. I think I finally understand how that works (after much trial and mostly error).

The problem is that the pointer does not zero out accurately. When the black piece rests on the top of the green knob in the unlock position, the scale reads -1.
So you have to dial in 7 to get a cut depth of 8mm.

I don’t see any way to adjust that.

 

[FestitaMakool]

It’s the same on mine, it shows -1 mm.

Don’t think there’s anything else to do rather than adding a shim, washer, o-ring or similarly to either the plastic shaft or on top of micro adjuster. It would have to be wide enough to let the shaft move freely.

 

[johan139]

this might help:

 

[Birdhunter]

I’ll check my 1010 per the video. But, I very seldom use a tool’s measuring devices. If the  measurement is critical, I will use a Starrett rule, caliper, gauge block, or other measuring tool.

 

[crustacean]

I am following the procedure in the video. My issue (and it is more annoying than anything else) is that the pointer shows -1 when you push it all the way down as shown in the video. It's possible of course not to put it all the way down, but then it will move when you adjust it. It would be nice if it showed zero when when pushed down, but otherwise I will just subtract one from the measurement shown, or use a spacer block.

I wonder why they did it this way. I spoiled a couple of workpieces because I assumed the zero position was accurate.

 

[FestitaMakool]

Good video by Phil Beckley..
Not sure many use this feature, but after watching it seems like it has this “negative” Millimeter by default. As you are supposed to lift or lower the pointer to zero out. It’s only meant as a ruler for one time adjustment. If you do another depth you’ll have to do it all over again.

By the way, I know a lot of you are missing LED light on some of your Festool tools.
This guy does it thoroughly: OF 1010 LED light:=share

 

[ear3]

[member=72722]crustacean[/member]  Have you tried adjusting it to zero using the silver calibration screw accessed at the top of the rod mechanism

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I am following the procedure in the video. My issue (and it is more annoying than anything else) is that the pointer shows -1 when you push it all the way down as shown in the video. It's possible of course not to put it all the way down, but then it will move when you adjust it. It would be nice if it showed zero when when pushed down, but otherwise I will just subtract one from the measurement shown, or use a spacer block.

I wonder why they did it this way. I spoiled a couple of workpieces because I assumed the zero position was accurate.

 

[Michael Kellough]

the silver calibration screw

Aha! I didn’t even know that screw existed.

Still don’t see the need for a fixed “zero” position on a movable gauge when the “fixing” of the router bit itself is so variable.

Also, why would the two extra increments below the “zero” mark exist if they weren’t useful sometimes? If the screws is adjusted to prevent the movable gauge from reaching those marks you must be loosing some utility?

 

[FestitaMakool]

Ah.. you have one, and found it!

Mine didn’t have one, but I found one that can do in my RC screw set, it fits but it’s short.
I’d guess there is a lot of OF 1010 that misses this grub screw from factory. The hole on mine didn’t even have thread marks - it was a clean smooth hole.

 

[Michael Kellough]

My routers are OF1000, haven’t checked to see if they have the screw.

 

[crustacean]

I emailed Festool support and they tell me the scale has to be zeroed manually -- it is not supposed to be zeroed automatically. I can't see any reason why this is useful, however.

Thanks for the tip about the grub screw on top of the rod. Will check in the morning!

 

[Frank-Jan]

I just watched the video by Phil Beckley and I saw that he let's go of the rod before fixing the depth stop clamp.
On some routers there's a spring preload on the turret, so if you zero it without keeping pressure on the rod, you will cut 0.5 mm deeper than intended. (regardless if your using the scale or a setup block)