OF1400 - Guide Bushings and what exactly is the problem and solution

ForumMFG

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So i just picked up a OF1400 and tonight i was looking for a set of guide bushings. My google search resulted in a few topics from this forum discussing the issues that are present with this specific router when using guide bushings.  There is side to side movement, you can’t center them, etc.  So, can someone bring me up to speed on exactly what the issue is and how it can be solved? Did i buy a router that can’t use guide bushings accurately?

This seems to be a big issue, tons of threads about it but not one that is clear on whats happening and how to solve the problem.  Thats why i wish this forum and its moderators would take advantage of making more sticky threads.  Its hard to search for what you want without getting a ton of other stuff you don’t need. 
 
I have several 1400s, I have no problems whatsoever. Everything interchanges and locks up tight. So I am not sure what you are seeing on the boards.
 
My guide bushings don't centre 100%, and due to the design, there's no way of adjusting them. I solved it by using an aftermarket base that takes it's own bushings. (Trend)
The way the bushings attach to the1400 is interesting and convenient, but fatally flawed.
 
The OF 1400 is a great router and for 80% of the time it works well. However, when you need it to be exactly centered ...that's a problem.

My solution...bring out the 1010 instead. It's a great router and Festool should have offered it with 1/2" collets as it is fully capable of handling small diameter 1/2" bits.

 
To OP:

On most routers bushings attach to a floating sub-base, which can be adjusted to achieve concentricity with the bit. It is done so to compensate for any inaccuracy in manufacturing, wear and tear, etc.

On Festool routers bushings attach to (snap into) the base directly with no provision for adjustment. As a result it's a hit and miss. Some routers come out of the factory perfectly concentric with tight fitting bushings, some not so much.

It is also a matter of ones level of OCD. What one person considers accurate could be unacceptable to another.

In my book ability to fine tune critical components of machine is a sign of good engineering.
 
Svar said:
To OP:

On most routers bushings attach to a floating sub-base, which can be adjusted to achieve concentricity with the bit. It is done so to compensate for any inaccuracy in manufacturing, wear and tear, etc.

On Festool routers bushings attach to (snap into) the base directly with no provision for adjustment. As a result it's a hit and miss. Some routers come out of the factory perfectly concentric with tight fitting bushings, some not so much.

It is also a matter of ones level of OCD. What one person considers accurate could be unacceptable to another.

In my book ability to fine tune critical components of machine is a sign of good engineering.

If you can’t make it perfect, make it adjustable.
 
Michael Kellough said:
Svar said:
If you can’t make it perfect, make it adjustable.

@MichaelKellough
-our sentiment exactly!

and the rest of respondents: thank for helping out with a comprehensive  set of answers to the OP question!
Hans
 
Michael Kellough said:
Svar said:
To OP:

In my book ability to fine tune critical components of machine is a sign of good engineering.

If you can’t make it perfect, make it adjustable.

Ding.  That is my issue with what I'm finding with German tools.  Instead of designing the tool/manufacturing where all the parts come together dead on (within a range that no one finds problematic), they instead create adjustability.  Adjustability just means the design sucks and you couldn't/wouldn't  solve it. Engineering has worked for decades to get rid of this so that all parts made to spec, bolt together and hit the target every time. Saves money and makes for a quality item.  But of course marketing of those who don't do a good job has convinced people that adjustment screws and such are good things.

If some routers are good and others are bad, it mean Festool has a real quality control problem/manufacturing/design problem.  Real amazing on something like a router where it's one concentric assembly.

If you can't hold a spec without adjustments it's time to review the design, the manufacturing process/tools, how many different parts are in the design. These are tools, it's what everything else gets made from, these need to be accurate and not a pile of adjustment screws.
 
Thank you to all who responded.

What gets me is that this has been an issue since 2007, based on searching for this issue on this forum, and its still a problem now.  You would think a company like festool would address this issue. 

This would be a perfect time for someone from festool to chime in and discuss this with us. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Lincoln said:
My guide bushings don't centre 100%, and due to the design, there's no way of adjusting them. I solved it by using an aftermarket base that takes it's own bushings. (Trend)
The way the bushings attach to the1400 is interesting and convenient, but fatally flawed.

What is the exact base that you bought? That sounds like a good solution provided its not expensive

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Lincoln said:
My guide bushings don't centre 100%, and due to the design, there's no way of adjusting them. I solved it by using an aftermarket base that takes it's own bushings. (Trend)
The way the bushings attach to the1400 is interesting and convenient, but fatally flawed.

The only trend base i found was the unibase and the website says its not compatible with the of1400

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The issue is actually two fold;

First the 1400 is not adjustable and secondly the template guide cannot be positively fastened to the base because it's retained in the base through spring pressure only.

1. So as far as concentricity goes, you get what you get as it comes from the factory. There is no tweeking that you can perform.

2. Because the template is retained through spring pressure, any side loading of the router will result in a small amount of movement between the template and the router bit.

Here's a shot of the base showing the latches that accept the ears on the template.

[attachimg=1]

Applying a side load perpendicular to the template ears results in a total movement of .008".

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

Applying a side load along the axis of the template ears results in a total movement of .003".

[attachimg=4]

[attachimg=5]

I came across these issues when I was using the Woodpeckers MFT template and the 1400 and some of the holes ended up looking like this.

[attachimg=6]
 

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I use PC style guide bushings with my OF1400 with the appropriate adapter insert and center using a task specific centering cone while tightening up the individual guide bushings in the adapter. Since the motor spindle is the reference point, the guide bushings are centered accurately that way.
 
Thanks Cheese, that is a crazy amount of movement. There is no reason for that at all.  I'm also not sure if depth control is very important on those bushings, if not they could have designed it as a taper so it would always be centered.
 
Jim_in_PA said:
I use PC style guide bushings with my OF1400 with the appropriate adapter insert and center using a task specific centering cone while tightening up the individual guide bushings in the adapter. Since the motor spindle is the reference point, the guide bushings are centered accurately that way.

Your adapter fits tightly with no extraneous movement?
 
[member=68063]DeformedTree[/member]  I’ve bought a bunch of expensive tools and I can’t think of a single one that arrived perfect in respect to alignment. Most are close enough that I can live with the slight discrepancy. I the case of a router the slight misconcentricity can be used to adjust a dado on the fly by referencing difference parts of the base.

When something really must be tweaked to be useful the presence of adjusting screws is way more useful than the lack. Hit or miss is not adjusting. It’s just gambling.
 
Michael Kellough said:
[member=68063]DeformedTree[/member]  I’ve bought a bunch of expensive tools and I can’t think of a single one that arrived perfect in respect to alignment. Most are close enough that I can live with the slight discrepancy. I the case of a router the slight misconcentricity can be used to adjust a dado on the fly by referencing difference parts of the base.
When something really must be tweaked to be useful the presence of adjusting screws is way more useful than the lack. Hit or miss is not adjusting. It’s just gambling.
I agree. I deal with precise instruments and "adjusting screws" are not just a good thing, they are critical. Machines get damaged, parts wear out, parts get replaced. You need a way to tune thing up.
 
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