ok - I'm ready to pony up the bucks what do I really NEED?

[asibtroy]

SAHM w/ Theatre set building expertise getting RRP and Moderate Lead Cert to make our new to us but 100 plus year old home safe and awesome for my young family.

I'm talking with a dealer by me but I'd like to make sure I do due diligence and get some other opinions before I buy.

I think I need - the dust extractor, a sander (but which one!?), and a jigsaw.

Mostly what we need to do to move in and get stable until we do big renovations when the kids are much older (probably about 6-10 years from now) is encapsulate the lead paint, sand/fix the peeling/chipping Lead paint, cut holes for new outlets and fixing the basic electric - cutting into walls/moldings that have lead paint. 
So far it all seems like interior work.

The nice thing is that I can also use this equipment for my theatre business as well - right?  I started to read some stuff about contamination and only using stuff for lead work.  That makes me nervous.  I'd like to be able to CLEAN the extractor and the tools so that I can use them other places as well...

Advice??

What do you think I need?

Thank you!
(also is it realistic to think i can do this work in about 2 weeks - by myself? There is probably only about 5 locations with chipped/peeling paint that need to be sanded etc. and none of them are bigger than 3ft x 2 ft - most are small sections of heavy traffic area trim)

 

[tbellemare]

How much electrical work are you considering? It almost sounds like that will take the most time. Pulling wire in an existing house by yourself is time consuming.

Tom

 

[hockey_magnet]

SAHM w/ Theatre set building expertise getting RRP and Moderate Lead Cert to make our new to us but 100 plus year old home safe and awesome for my young family.

I'm talking with a dealer by me but I'd like to make sure I do due diligence and get some other opinions before I buy.

I think I need - the dust extractor, a sander (but which one!?), and a jigsaw.

Mostly what we need to do to move in and get stable until we do big renovations when the kids are much older (probably about 6-10 years from now) is encapsulate the lead paint, sand/fix the peeling/chipping Lead paint, cut holes for new outlets and fixing the basic electric - cutting into walls/moldings that have lead paint. 
So far it all seems like interior work.

The nice thing is that I can also use this equipment for my theatre business as well - right?  I started to read some stuff about contamination and only using stuff for lead work.  That makes me nervous.  I'd like to be able to CLEAN the extractor and the tools so that I can use them other places as well...

Advice??

What do you think I need?

Thank you!
(also is it realistic to think i can do this work in about 2 weeks - by myself? There is probably only about 5 locations with chipped/peeling paint that need to be sanded etc. and none of them are bigger than 3ft x 2 ft - most are small sections of heavy traffic area trim)

For the sanding you describe, The RO 90 would seem to be your best bet since mostly small areas and trim. As far as extractors go, they're all good - you don't need more than the mini for the sanding you describe and the midi or mini are great if you use them off site for your business. But all the extractors will meet your needs, mainly a capacity issue plus with the larger models you can use the 36mm hose which is more efficient for the saws but the sanders use 27mm hose. I'm not qualified to comment on the lead paint issue. For the electric outlets, etc. I think you'd find a Feinn multimaster much superior to a jig saw but of coursee the jig saw is more versatile for other uses

 

[mouppe]

I'd get a CT26 with a Rotex sander. I have the RO125 myself but it comes down to personal preference. If you are working in small areas, corners or overhead the RO90 would be better. I would try to do as much of the work before moving in- two weeks should be plenty.

I don't have any experience with electrical work so cannot comment.

 

[tbellemare]

the larger models you can use the 36mm hose

You can use the 36 mm or 50 mm hose with the MINI/MIDI also. They just stick straight up out of the unit.

Tom

 

[asibtroy]

Thanks - as for the electrical a friend is an electrical contractor and my husband does basic electrical work and the house is in pretty good condition wiring wise - just needs new outlets with grounds and some GCFIs and grounding some existing outlets that are old two prongers - I'm expecting we can bang that out in one weekend work day.
Mostly I need to know if I can do all the plastic laying/hanging saftey stuff, sanding with extractor, painting and cleaning up in about two weeks - I'll mostly only have 3-4 hours at a clip to do the work as someone needs to watch the kids and they CANNOT be at the job site, I mean thats the whole point of cleaning up the lead paint - no exposure for them!

Would I be able to get Saws in the future that I could hook up to the mini? Thats what I'd need the other hose for right?  We would like to do that eventually.
(next summer we'd like to build some of our own furniture - beds, tables etc - and will need the saw)

I'll look at the RO 90 and the multi master...

 

[tbellemare]

The only effective difference in the 5 main CT's (MINI, MIDI, 26, 36, 48) now is capacity. They all have similar suction and hose handling. That means that you can use them equally for all the various tasks but the bag will fill up faster or slower.

Tom

 

[Alan m]

personally id go for the midi over the mini because there isnt much cost diference but is a bit bigger.
get a ro90 and multimaster.
yes you can conect the mini to a saw or anything else ,it will just fill up faster.
make sure you get one of the new vacs that is rrr sertified.

 

[BJM9818]

I have had a midi since 2007 and just purchased a CT36 end of last month.  After using the CT for a week if I were you I would save some money and get the midi.  Mine has less suction(older model) but the CT26/36 footprint is quite large and if I planned to travel with mine 9/10 times I plan on bringing my MIDI.  Get a Rotex (whatever size fits your needs best). If during your home install you do some custom builds a TS55/75 also might be on your list.

Fein Multimaster as others have stated is also a awesome tool if you don't have one already.

 

[hockey_magnet]

the larger models you can use the 36mm hose

You can use the 36 mm or 50 mm hose with the MINI/MIDI also. They just stick straight up out of the unit.

Tom

Thanks tom, I was unaware of that. Based my comment on Lee Valley's compatibility chart which shows 27 mm hoses only for the Mini and Midi.

Chris

 

[semenza]

Hi,

Welcome to the FOG!  [smile]

The Min or Midi vac will be the easiest to move around and take places. The hose that comes with it will do all you need.  Seems like the RO90 cleaning set. They seem a bit pricey, but the attachments fit the hose properly and the black plastic is no-mar.

The Fein Multi Master would probably be really good to have for  your work. It is one of those tools that does all the oddball cuts and weird stuff that can come up in working on a house.

And regardless of the vac and dust collection don't forget other protective wear such as a really good face maskwould be the choice for your work, and the LS130 if you have  trim profiles to sand.  Also think about getting a Festool compact .

Seth

 

[jmarkflesher]

I have been in commercial construction for 37 years. Several jobs that were renovations had certified crews come in prior to us. You seem to be well aware of the dangers of lead and asbestos, but the lead and young children scares me. The certified removal crews kept negative pressure in the building at all times with alarms on all air handlers with filters. The workers entered a chamber to suit up with tyvek suits and booties. They exited through another chamber,bagging work suits and then showering. Lead is a SUSPECT, not proven, for autism. I recommend encapsulated until children are older. If you chose to sand have everyones lead level checked prior to work. Do this again on completion. If it sounds like I am scaring you it only so you take every precaution available to you.

 

[ccarrolladams]

[welcome] to The Fog, Asibtroy!

In June this year I will have been licensed as an architectural structural engineer for 60 years. During much of this time I supervised a whole lot of projects for the movie studio where I was an executive nearly 50 years. I also designed many residences as a sideline, so new and some rebuilds. So as regulations about lead and asbestos were enacted, I participated in many, many seminars and classes.

My suggestion is to hold off selecting any particular tools until you have completed those classes. Besides the USA Federal rules, there are state, county and municipal requirements. For example, it could be that the dust extractor and sanders used to remove paint will need to only be used for this task. But, you will not know if this applies to you until you take the classes.

A FOG member mentioned "M" class extractors. That is a European category. All the current Festool dust extractors sold in North America are equipped with HEPA filters and are certified for many tasks, but not asbestos work.

 

[dltflt]

It's. Of about what you need it is what do you want.  Because once you drink the koolaid you will not stop until you have everything.
All kidding aside I would start with the TS55 or 75 with a CT.  Then get an RO150, ETS150, and RO90.  Of coarse you need all of the accessories. The Domino is an absolute neccesity.

 

[Kev]

Lots of good advice on Festool vacs and sanders - so I won't add any more.

My thoughts are you'd consider Fein Multi Master for plunge cutting into cavities and also invest in high quality respiratory and eye protection gear.

Introducing extraction to create negative pressure is a consideration .... budget permitting, I would personally look into it!

Kev.

 

[fldange]

I agree with Kev.  I think you need a Fein Multimaster as well.  And as far as the dust extractors go, get the CT26 or larger if you need it.  The CT26 has the hose come out of the body vs the top which makes it better should you eventually get a Kapex and want to stack systainers on top of the vacuum.  The larger hose needed for the dust extraction will not fit under the systainers on a mini or midi.  Good luck with the house.  Tks.   

 

[Tinker]

Check building codes.  you might be able to encapsulate by painting over.  i don't know what paint would be used, but I know that in our town, some municipal building renovations we have encapsulated with painting for some applications.  I was on the town building committee for twelve years and knew of such methods.  (knew of them, but let others with knowledge in that area to make those decisions.)

The asbestos was always the biggie when it came to renovations. My area of expertise was site work, masonry and concrete.  The other areas, i pretty much stayed out of.

as far as sanders, for what you will need, the first step might be the RO 90 as that has a smaller round pad AND a tri cornered pad.  you can get into just about anything with that combo.  The LS 130 would be my second choice (after the RO 90 has gotten you hooked)  From there you will have looked at a few other situations that can be better handled by other sanders.  Be sure to look at the dust collection prperties of any sander. In my experience, the Festooys are the best in that area.  (I have a coupple of old PC's and a Milwaukee 1/2 sheet orbital.  Non of those come even close.

As far as sawing goes, I suspect you are not greatly skilled with carpentry YET.  Stick with the TS 55 or the jigsaw.  With either one, you will find out you could use the other.  How old are your children?  maybe one of them is soon to show an interest in tools.  A lot of beginner (childrens) projects for jigsaws.  I would not suggest the TS 75. The TS 55 will cut thru any construction lumber, even 4x4 by turning them over and cut from both sides.  There is a big weight difference between the two saws.  I think that 75  is a lot more saw than you need.  I have the old Fein Multi tool.  It has no dust collection.  It can throw a lot of dust. Not good for your situation.  If you should look at aused Fein, be sure it is a newer one with DC. I use mine very seldom, but when i do need it, it is THE tool to use.  i would not be without it. It is great for scribing along base and along crooked corners. Great for plunging into wall board for electric boxes and even chopping into framing lumber for same purpose.  Oh, BTW, you migh look into a used 1/2 inch corded electric drill. Great for running electric lines and plumbing.  I don't know how much work you plan to do yourself, but for renovating work, a heavy drill might be a good investment.  Milwaukee was (and still is) my favorite in that category. My choice would be a Milwaukee Hole Hawg with the angle chucking.  If you run out of use for it (once you have finished alterations, it might be way more drill than you need) it is a tool that you could unload for what you paid for it. Mine has sat in a corner for most of the thirty years i have been out of construction.  Every once in a while, it comes out for three or four holes and back into the corner it goes.  I would not part with it and, having bought it used, i can still get my money back on it.  It has paid for itself many times over.  Now that is profit.

welcome aboard and Lots of luck with your venture.  You are smart to come to this group. We are all here to help (you to spend your money)  [cool] :
Tinker

 

[jacko9]

asibtroy - just buy one of each and you'll find out how lucky you are [big grin]

 

[RC]

A FOG member mentioned "M" class extractors. That is a European category. All the current Festool dust extractors sold in North America are equipped with HEPA filters and are certified for many tasks, but not asbestos work.

Actually the H-class VACs in Europe are the asbestos/lead category and M-class sits in between L- and H- with airflow dip warning gadgetry integrated in to the normal L-VACs. Not that this will help much if they are NAINA (not available in North-America).

Quote from the CTH 26 E description:
"- For wood dust and dust with MAC values ​​

 

[asibtroy]

Thanks this is all great!

NO absetos removal for me.  I can't even spell it!

I'm totally freaked about the lead which is why I am getting certified.  I would prefer to just encapsulate but there are areas of water damage around two windows and in one closet and one ceiling that will NEED to have the peeling chipped paint removed before I can encapsulate the rest of it.
No kids will be in the house when I do the work and I'm going to run HEPA purifiers continuously in each living area after I'm done with all the tearing down/cleaning of the plastic etc.  I'm planning on getting a cleaning jumpsuit, a great hepa mask, and eyewear.  I'm going to shower at the new house before I go back to the old house.  (the downstairs bath is by the exterior door area I'm going to make the "chamber" in.) Other suggestions?
Lead levels spike for at least two months even when SUPER professionals do the work.  Is it better to have air purifiers or open windows in those following months - anyone know?

Can someone give me a link to the multi-tool?  I'm having trouble finding it.  I was just going to get the mini b/c I'm not doing that much stuff at once and we are on a bit of a budget just having bought a house and all... hmm...