Painting Birch Plywood

[jstockman]

Guys,

I need your advice and help.  I am in process of building a built in libirary cabinet attached to a base that a TV will sit on.  The library shelves and cabinet is paint grade birch.  The base is made up of poplar rails and stiles.  The base itself is melamine with maple like finish. I do not plan on painting the melamine finish as it will be insdie the base cabinets behind MDF Doors.

I need to paint the birch and poplar and mdf doors.

My equipment is brushes, rollers.

I need help so it will finish up great!

Help

What are the prep steps
What primer do I use
What paint is best.
What type of brushes rollers do I use?

It will certain take some abuse.

Thank-you guys a bunch for all your help

Jim

 

[butzla]

Hi Jim,  Here's what I do and get great results:

1. Sand bare plywood to 220 grit
2.  Apply Kilz brand oil-based primer....oil based will not raise grain and sands very smoothly with minimal effort.  I used disposable brushes and rollers for the primer.  Avoids icky cleanup.  Foam brushes work great for trim.  If you are using a dark top coat, have them tint the primer at the store.  Also have them shake your cans (that's what she said)
3.  Sand primer with 220 grit.
4. vacuum up dust and wipe with tack rag
5.  Apply latex semi-gloss paint, I like Sherwin Williams or Ben Moore.  Don't go cheap here.  I use a Purdy sash brush for latex paints on trim and a good quality roller for field.  I always go back over rolled areas with wet brush to even out and give it a brushed appearance.
6. Repeat step 4 in between coats, 2 top coats should be sufficient.

Here's a picture of my golf lockers using the above advice:

 

[Brice Burrell]

Hi Jim,  Here's what I do and get great results:

1. Sand bare plywood to 220 grit
2.  Apply Kilz brand oil-based primer....oil based will not raise grain and sands very smoothly with minimal effort.  I used disposable brushes and rollers for the primer.  Avoids icky cleanup.  Foam brushes work great for trim.  If you are using a dark top coat, have them tint the primer at the store.  Also have them shake your cans (that's what she said)
3.  Sand primer with 220 grit.
4. vacuum up dust and wipe with tack rag
5.  Apply latex semi-gloss paint, I like Sherwin Williams or Ben Moore.  Don't go cheap here.  I use a Purdy sash brush for latex paints on trim and a good quality roller for field.  I always go back over rolled areas with wet brush to even out and give it a brushed appearance.
6. Repeat step 4 in between coats, 2 top coats should be sufficient....

I think this is a good advice and should be very easy for anyone to get good results. The only thing I'd add is you could could apply a couple of coats of water-based polyurethane on top of the paint for some extra durability. 

 

[Wood_Junkie]

Stoolman, very nice lockers!

What are the beadboard panels made of?  Are those made of plywood?  Did you make those or are they off-the-shelf?  The reason I'm asking a bedframe for my kids and my wife wants beadboard for the head and footboard panels.  I was going to make them using plywood and a beading bit, but I'm worried about the plies somehow showing through.  All parts for this bedframe will be painted-- probably somewhat glossy white.  So defects will most likely stick out...

Thanks in advance.

 

[butzla]

Brice,  I've never used poly on top of paint but have always wondered about it.  I'll give it a try next time.
Woodjunkie,  Thanks.  I used 1/2" mdf bead board.  It's only beaded on one side though.  I did a thread on them a while back here.

 

[Holzhacker]

I've had pretty good luck with using Poly over paint. Mostly on window sills, trims around doors and areas that will see some abuse. Sometimes because of kids but mostly because the client has a cat/dog or has a tendency to leave windows open and some rain comes in. From my use experience I would recommend.
- use multiple thin coats, don't try to glob on a fat coat
- make sure the paint is really dry before applying; tried to rush a job where the paint was barely dry and it all ended up a gooey mess, had to scrape it all off.
- do a test board to see which level of Poly, satin, semi or gloss most mimics the sheen of the surrounding semi-gloss paint if applicable;
- have had some success at using gloss Poly and hitting it very light with light steelwool to get the sheen to match up; real PIA though
Hope that helps, Markus

 

[twang120]

How long should you let the paint dry before applying poly?  Does it make a difference if you are using 100% acrylic?

 

[ericbuggeln]

1. Sand with 220, then clean

2. Prime with Zinsser Bullseye 123

3. Finish with Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo, Oil or Latex.  If you use any other paint add Flood's Floetrol additive to cut down on brush marks.

4. Use only Purdy Pro XL brushes and Purdy White Dove 3/8 inch nap roller

5.  If you want to apply Poly use 3 inch Purdy Oil based China Bristle brush, pull any loose bristles out prior to starting

Also with poly, brush on from left to right, then down, try not to go back over anything unless there is a drool, Eric

 

[waho6o9]

1. Sand with 220, then clean

2. Prime with Zinsser Bullseye 123

3. Finish with Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo, Oil or Latex.  If you use any other paint add Flood's Floetrol additive to cut down on brush marks.

4. Use only Purdy Pro XL brushes and Purdy White Dove 3/8 inch nap roller

5.  If you want to apply Poly use 3 inch Purdy Oil based China Bristle brush, pull any loose bristles out prior to starting

Also with poly, brush on from left to right, then down, try not to go back over anything unless there is a drool, Eric

  Dont forget to tack rag it.  Oops.  [eek]

 

[jstockman]

Guys,

Thanks for all the advice.  My learning curve has gone into overdrive.

I am using MDF doors.  Do I follow the above advice for MDF or does it change a bit?

Thanks for you help

Jim

 

[butzla]

Nothing changes with MDF just sand lighter.

 

[ericbuggeln]

Use Benjamin Moore's Fresh Start- Alkyd Enamel Underbody primer for MDF.  Then use 2 coats latex topcoat and you will be looking good.  Eric

 

[jstockman]

A BIG THANK-YOU for all the posts and advice.  I'll try  to remember to post a completed pic when done.

Jim

 

[Winchester]

Melamine Paint from BM and the corresponding primer

 

[Aquadisiyak]

Stoolman, very nice lockers!

What are the beadboard panels made of?  Are those made of plywood?  Did you make those or are they off-the-shelf?  The reason I'm asking a bedframe for my kids and my wife wants beadboard for the head and footboard panels.  I was going to make them using plywood and a beading bit, but I'm worried about the plies somehow showing through.  All parts for this bedframe will be painted-- probably somewhat glossy white.  So defects will most likely stick out...

Thanks in advance.

Brice,  I've never used poly on top of paint but have always wondered about it.  I'll give it a try next time.
Woodjunkie,  Thanks.  I used 1/2" mdf bead board.  It's only beaded on one side though.  I did a thread on them a while back here.

 

[butzla]

Stoolman, very nice lockers!

What are the beadboard panels made of?  Are those made of plywood?  Did you make those or are they off-the-shelf?  The reason I'm asking a bedframe for my kids and my wife wants beadboard for the head and footboard panels.  I was going to make them using plywood and a beading bit, but I'm worried about the plies somehow showing through.  All parts for this bedframe will be painted-- probably somewhat glossy white.  So defects will most likely stick out...

Thanks in advance.

Brice,  I've never used poly on top of paint but have always wondered about it.  I'll give it a try next time.
Woodjunkie,  Thanks.  I used 1/2" mdf bead board.  It's only beaded on one side though.  I did a thread on them a while back here.

????

 

[Hoover]

Guys,

Thanks for all the advice.  My learning curve has gone into overdrive.

I am using MDF doors.  Do I follow the above advice for MDF or does it change a bit?

Thanks for you help

Jim

I don't like the smell of oil primer so I'll use a good Ben Moore latex for the primer sometimes on birch plywood, etc. instead of the oil.  You do not want to use latex primer on mdf though.  Mdf does not react well to water, even the amount of water in latex primer, so on mdf always use oil primer.  Once the mdf is primed, you can use a latex paint on top.

Also, if you rout any profiles on the mdf edges, etc. then just be a little gentile in sanding though, the edges of mdf are a bit softer and will sand through quicker.

 

[jstockman]

Guys,

I did as the thread said and used the primer and BM latex paint.  I sanded between coats etc.  Then I did a google search on applying poly over latex.  What came up was a shock.

The posts at http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Latex_Paint__Too_Soft_for_Bookcases.html

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=23993

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/paint-bookcase-11662/

said that you should not use latex paint for a bookcase becasue it will not harded and the books etc will stick to it.  

Is this right?

What are my options.

Confused,

Jim

 

[nickao]

Absolutely correct. I learned it the hard way of course, years ago. I had parts of books sticking to the shelves for years after I did that.

For interior fine trim and woodwork, cabinets, etc, I never use anything but alkyd enamel. I prefer using clear finish on hardwoods, but I have had many people ask me to paint Maple and I just shake my head.

 

[jstockman]

Absolutely correct. I learned it the hard way of course, years ago. I had parts of books sticking to the shelves for years after I did that.

For interior fine trim and woodwork, cabinets, etc, I never use anything but alkyd enamel. I prefer using clear finish on hardwoods, but I have had many people ask me to paint Maple and I just shake my head.

This is a tough response.  I need a solution.  I used ben? Interior Acrylic Latex Eggshell W626.  Sorry to report that the Ace Hardware store that sold me the BM did nto steer me to the right product.  I told them what I was doing.

What is a solution?

Jim