Painting Birch Plywood

[Brice Burrell]

There were a couple of recommendations to use water based poly over the latex, that should take care of the problem.

 

[jstockman]

There were a couple of recommendations to use water based poly over the latex, that should take care of the problem.

Brice

My wife had a suggestion.

The bookcase is not up against the walls so the shelves and coutertop are still in pieces ready to assemble.  She said to sand down the shelves and coutertop and apply something that would work.  The carcasses could still be finished as is because they would recieve little wear.

What should I refinish the shelves and coutertop with and what would be the steps I should follow.

Can I use the BM Impervo enamel.  If so should I reprime with the oil base Kliz?

Thankyou for helping me solve this problem.

Jim

 

[Brice Burrell]

Jim, honestly, I would use the water-based poly.  I don't have a lot of experience with latex enamel paints so I can't really give any helpful advice there. 

 

[jstockman]

Jim, honestly, I would use the water-based poly.  I don't have a lot of experience with latex enamel paints so I can't really give any helpful advice there. 

Brice,

Thanks for replying.

Maybe someone else will read the post with some more advice.

Jim

 

[peter halle]

Jim,

There is another Benjamin Moore Product that you could consider.  It is called Advance.  It is a water based enamel.  That does not mean latex.  It means that it is a hybrid.  The water in the mixture is used as a carrier that will evaporate relatively quickly (like latex paint), but the remainder is an oil based enamel.  It has all the characteristics of an oil based paint but cleans up 99 percent with soapy water.  The brush will then have an oily feel to it.  That you clean out like when using an oil based paint.

The finish dries to a hard film and needs to be applied like an oil based - i.e.  apply and then don't fool with it or overbrush.  Only comes in satin and gloss though.

I did run across another product there last week and can't remember the name.  I will get it for you.  If I can find it on their website, I'll be back in a couple of minutes.

Peter

 

[jstockman]

Jim,

There is another Benjamin Moore Product that you could consider.  It is called Advance.  It is a water based enamel.  That does not mean latex.  It means that it is a hybrid.  The water in the mixture is used as a carrier that will evaporate relatively quickly (like latex paint), but the remainder is an oil based enamel.  It has all the characteristics of an oil based paint but cleans up 99 percent with soapy water.  The brush will then have an oily feel to it.  That you clean out like when using an oil based paint.

The finish dries to a hard film and needs to be applied like an oil based - i.e.  apply and then don't fool with it or overbrush.  Only comes in satin and gloss though.

I did run across another product there last week and can't remember the name.  I will get it for you.  If I can find it on their website, I'll be back in a couple of minutes.

Peter

Peter,

Did you find that other product?

Thx,

Jim

 

[peter halle]

Jim, 

It wasn't on the website, but I am driving to a Benjamin Moore store right now and will get you the name of the other stuff.

Peter

 

[peter halle]

Jim,

The manufacturer is Insl-x

Product is Cabinet Coat tirm & cabine enamel

Composition is urethane acrylic satin

Clean up soap and water

 

[Jerry White]

Jim,

If you used Benjamin Moore Waterborne Satin Impervo, 100% acrylic enamel you are in luck.  The key term is acrylic, although it is called acrylic latex in the description on the back of the can, it is by no means the same paint as latex wall paint.  I have had very good results using this product on trim and shelves, even shelves that receive hard wear.  I also add a product called Flowtrol to improve the self leveling of the finish.

Good luck with your project.

Jerry

 

[jstockman]

Jim,

If you used Benjamin Moore Waterborne Satin Impervo, 100% acrylic enamel you are in luck.  The key term is acrylic, although it is called acrylic latex in the description on the back of the can, it is by no means the same paint as latex wall paint.  I have had very good results using this product on trim and shelves, even shelves that receive hard wear.  I also add a product called Flowtrol to improve the self leveling of the finish.

Good luck with your project.

Jerry

Jerry,

Thank-you.  In fact the guy at Ace Hardware sold me Ben Latex paint when I asked for the best paint for paint grade wood cabinets.  Now it has turned to damage control.

Jim

 

[jstockman]

Jim,

The manufacturer is Insl-x

Product is Cabinet Coat tirm & cabine enamel

Composition is urethane acrylic satin

Clean up soap and water

Peter,

Thank-you.

I will surf for it.

Jim

 

[bjackson3]

I don't like the smell of oil primer so I'll use a good Ben Moore latex for the primer sometimes on birch plywood, etc. instead of the oil.  You do not want to use latex primer on mdf though.  Mdf does not react well to water, even the amount of water in latex primer, so on mdf always use oil primer.  Once the mdf is primed, you can use a latex paint on top.

Also, if you rout any profiles on the mdf edges, etc. then just be a little gentile in sanding though, the edges of mdf are a bit softer and will sand through quicker.
[/quote]

Learned a tip from an old time painter to put a teaspoon of vanilla extract in oil based paints.  Does nothing to affect the quality but it sure smells a lot nicer.

 

[WOODFLIGHT]

This right here, folks. Followed this process on a Baltic Birch bookcase I'm building and I've never been happier with painted wood before!

Also - I stupidly applied the oil-based Kilz in my small shop while NOT wearing a respirator. Profoundly idiotic. I was sick for 3 days.

Thanks, Jim!

Hi Jim,  Here's what I do and get great results:

1. Sand bare plywood to 220 grit
2.  Apply Kilz brand oil-based primer....oil based will not raise grain and sands very smoothly with minimal effort.  I used disposable brushes and rollers for the primer.  Avoids icky cleanup.  Foam brushes work great for trim.  If you are using a dark top coat, have them tint the primer at the store.  Also have them shake your cans (that's what she said)
3.  Sand primer with 220 grit.
4. vacuum up dust and wipe with tack rag
5.  Apply latex semi-gloss paint, I like Sherwin Williams or Ben Moore.  Don't go cheap here.  I use a Purdy sash brush for latex paints on trim and a good quality roller for field.  I always go back over rolled areas with wet brush to even out and give it a brushed appearance.
6. Repeat step 4 in between coats, 2 top coats should be sufficient.

Here's a picture of my golf lockers using the above advice:

 

[Packard]

I don't like the smell of oil primer so I'll use a good Ben Moore latex for the primer sometimes on birch plywood, etc. instead of the oil.  You do not want to use latex primer on mdf though.  Mdf does not react well to water, even the amount of water in latex primer, so on mdf always use oil primer.  Once the mdf is primed, you can use a latex paint on top.

Also, if you rout any profiles on the mdf edges, etc. then just be a little gentile in sanding though, the edges of mdf are a bit softer and will sand through quicker.

Learned a tip from an old time painter to put a teaspoon of vanilla extract in oil based paints.  Does nothing to affect the quality but it sure smells a lot nicer.
[/quote]

I used to get MDF with calendared faces.  That is the boards are run through smoothing rollers before the binder is fully set.  It would leave a slick surface that too waterbased paints well with no raising of the “grain”.  Since the pandemic, I have not been able to source that type of MDF, and MDF has lost its charm for me.

You can apply a thin coat of Seal Coat (dewaxed shellac).  It dries in about 20 minutes and makes an excellent primer.  It does not raise the “grain” at all. 

I used to only have to apply the Seal Coat on the machined edges, which needed to be sanded, filled and sealed before paint.  MDF with the edges sealed and filled and sanded was my preferred material for painted pieces. 

Now, I would prefer birch plywood (Baltic birch is not required.  Wood filler on the edges and then sand and paint.  This takes a bit more time than edge banding and paint, but the wood filler never comes loose like edge banding can.

I can still get (the new and crappy) MDF from the big box stores, but the lumber yard no longer carries MDF.  He says he cannot make a profit on that product. 

While I am on the subject, I used to like to hand brush the edges with gold enamel from One-Shot.  But they changed the formulation (for environmental compliance

)and it did not brush on as well.