Picture frame assembly

T

-The Dutch Guy-

Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
79
Hi everybody!

Yesterday I've made some very(very very very) basic picture frames. They weren't actually made for photo's but more
to test a new way to glue mitered edges, without any joining method. Since I haven't got a domino  [crying] and I always
mess up the dowel joints (I really think I'm doing something wrong with those things [blink]).
 
Here are some images;

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A lot of you might have seen this method, craftsman use it for over centuries.
I really think I'm going to use this more often because you have a 100% control
over the work peace and the joint.

The wedges I made were from mdf, not the best material but they did the job.

Let me know what you think or where I can improve.

Cheerz René 

 
 
Miters came out pretty nice. I wouldn't buy a $1000 machine for just a couple of picture frames myself but hey that's me. a couple of splines are easy enough to make if you wanted a more solid joint but for some wee frames it's not a requirement.

Cheers
 
Rene:
Those look pretty sweet.
It looks like you used MDF for the frames too.
If you want to make the joint tighter before glue up use a shooting board and a plane to get the miters to match up even better.
Tim
 
@ GhostFist and Sparktrician,

A machine worth a $1000 (or €850 in Europe) is way over the budged just bought a new car.
But thanks for thinking with me!
A kreg jig might be a good option:) and for a reasonable price too. I only haven't seen them in the Neterlands jet.

Thanks for the comment.

Cheerz René
 
@ Tim Raleigh,

Thanks, the joints are very close maybe a 1/32 off or something, but nothing major.
I made these 2 from mdf to play with this gluing method [smile], next week I'm going to
make them out of oak or something like that.
Also going to try your tip with the shootboard and plane.

Thanks for the comment.

Cheerz René 
 
The wedges at the top and bottom, particularly the bottom one, will tend to flex the material and open your miters up at the corners. I would reconfigure the fixture with fixed stops at the bottom and one side to create a perfect 90 degrees for two adjacent sides and then wedge the other corners with the force directed at the center of each miter. Stay away from wedging in the middle of side because you are pushing against unsupported material and it will sabotage your best efforts.
 
I'm about to make a few picture frames. But those profiles are often hard to clamp. I saw a set of clips with a set of pliers to clamp over the corner. Is this something useful?
 
Wim said:
I'm about to make a few picture frames. But those profiles are often hard to clamp. I saw a set of clips with a set of pliers to clamp over the corner. Is this something useful?
Click to expand...

It's something that leaves yet another set of holes to fill when everything's finally glued up. 

[sad]
 
As of last spring my secret weapon for aligning long miter joints and joining small ones, like on a frame, is the 4mm domino.  We made a large pedestal where the four sides were 3/4 inch plywood over 40 inches wide and 31 inches high, with the 31 inch miters cut on the table saw.  4mm dominos don't necessarily add any strength to these large boards and long miters, but they assisted in alignment and the sides glued and clamped up nearly dead square.  Reinforcement frame members were added internally after the glue dried.

On a few picture frames I made, I used molding thick enough so that I could just get the 4mm domino in the end.  With cutting the miter using the Dubby platform the angles were exact and the dominos made glue up a low stress situation.

Regarding the "set of clips with a set of pliers to clamp over the corner", these are a favorite of those of us who build period American Furniture.  There are sets of these that have survived for a hundred years or so and they are wonderful.  For a period in the 1990s or so they were difficult to find.  Just remember to touch up the point on new ones or on old ones if they have their point blunted.  They work great.

Gary
 
Just a thought, Would cutting a square to the exact interior dimension be of help maybe? this would prvent springing  from the wedges and ensure your frame remains well....square.
 
Wim,

The different style miter clamps you're referring to can be seen on Gary Katz website.  He also has "the real original" Cam Clamps. (See Brice  [big grin]).
www.garymkatz.com

go to resourses and articles tab at the top, then tool reviews, then you'll see the miter clamps
 
If you are building picture frames and one side will be hidden then I would cut the 45 degrees miter with a bevel of 89~88 degrees.  There is less contact on the wood so you have to worry only for the side that shows.  It will create a tight miter on the showing side.
The caveat is you need a way to keep the join close, it means that you would need a domino, dowel, splines, etc.

 
I would use mitre bond for a basic project like this,their would be no need for wedges etc
 
Rene89 said:
I only haven't seen them in the Neterlands jet.
Click to expand...

I order stuff like that from Axminster. While the GBP is not as low as it waas a year ago, and the VAT increased, it still is often cheaper then buyin in BE or NL. Excellent service too. They say mainland delivery takes a week, but 2-3 business days is more the norm.
I buy almost all the woodworking stuff that you don't find in the big box stores here (wich is almost everithing) from them.

greetz,

Philippe
 
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