Hello Everyone,
I stopped by my local Woodcraft today in Atlanta and got to cut a few pieces of wood on the Kapex... My immediate impression (before turning it on) was that is looked like a typical Festool product - built very well... The laser lines are very nice, but the right line was off by more than a 1/16 of an inch. I understand that is an easy tweak - so no big deal... When the miter lock is engaged, it very securely holds what ever angle it is set at... Same seems to be true of the bevel lock. Both are very nice...
Those are the immediate things that I noticed before cutting some wood... However, after a very short while, I noticed that even when disengaging the miter locking lever, trying to reposition the miter angle became very difficult. The store clerk came over and he was not able to determine what was wrong... We looked all over the darn saw and could not find any lodged wood pieces, or anything else that might be restricting it's movement... When trying to adjust the miter angle, we could actually hear what sounded like metal scraping against metal. It definitely did not have that issue at the beginning when we first started playing with the tool... We walked into their "training room" and tried another Kapex and its left/right movement seemed much more fluid.
We also played with the bevel & miter angles simultaneously and noticed it was rather easy to get the dust boot (I guess that is what you call it) caught on the end of the fences. We even moved the left and right fences as far out as their travel would allow (stopped by a small set/stop screw) and the boot would still get caught. In fact, even the left/right guide rails would come into contact with the fences at extreme bevel/miter angles... I guess one could completely remove the appropriate fence to avoid the above issues but I am surprised that it would be necessary?
One final observation, there is a decent method of changing the bevel by rotating the handle on the right rail. However, there was no obvious micro adjustment of the miter angle... Unless the salesman missed something, there is no "fine" method of adjusting the miter - that is a bummer. In fact, we tried to "transfer" and angle using the supplied angle transfer device and it was nearly impossible to get the Laser to line up on the transfer guide as the tables miter angle was so difficult to adjust that it was impossible to get a smooth adjustment...
Can anyone who has played with the Kapex for more than 10 minutes shed some light on my comments above? Thanks...
Matt
I stopped by my local Woodcraft today in Atlanta and got to cut a few pieces of wood on the Kapex... My immediate impression (before turning it on) was that is looked like a typical Festool product - built very well... The laser lines are very nice, but the right line was off by more than a 1/16 of an inch. I understand that is an easy tweak - so no big deal... When the miter lock is engaged, it very securely holds what ever angle it is set at... Same seems to be true of the bevel lock. Both are very nice...
Those are the immediate things that I noticed before cutting some wood... However, after a very short while, I noticed that even when disengaging the miter locking lever, trying to reposition the miter angle became very difficult. The store clerk came over and he was not able to determine what was wrong... We looked all over the darn saw and could not find any lodged wood pieces, or anything else that might be restricting it's movement... When trying to adjust the miter angle, we could actually hear what sounded like metal scraping against metal. It definitely did not have that issue at the beginning when we first started playing with the tool... We walked into their "training room" and tried another Kapex and its left/right movement seemed much more fluid.
We also played with the bevel & miter angles simultaneously and noticed it was rather easy to get the dust boot (I guess that is what you call it) caught on the end of the fences. We even moved the left and right fences as far out as their travel would allow (stopped by a small set/stop screw) and the boot would still get caught. In fact, even the left/right guide rails would come into contact with the fences at extreme bevel/miter angles... I guess one could completely remove the appropriate fence to avoid the above issues but I am surprised that it would be necessary?
One final observation, there is a decent method of changing the bevel by rotating the handle on the right rail. However, there was no obvious micro adjustment of the miter angle... Unless the salesman missed something, there is no "fine" method of adjusting the miter - that is a bummer. In fact, we tried to "transfer" and angle using the supplied angle transfer device and it was nearly impossible to get the Laser to line up on the transfer guide as the tables miter angle was so difficult to adjust that it was impossible to get a smooth adjustment...
Can anyone who has played with the Kapex for more than 10 minutes shed some light on my comments above? Thanks...
Matt