Plug-it pigtail NAINA - would you like one?
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James Metcalf
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- Jan 22, 2007
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If you convert the planer HL850 E it will take the long plug-it(491145) 420mm. You will need this much wire.The short one is 360 mm as has been said earlier which could be better on another tool such as Michael Kellogh's AT55. You will need to look at the tool you are going to change find out which wire you need. You will not want to cut the brown and blue wire on the plug-it as it has a crimp connector on it that gives you a better connection. You may need to trim the green part but be sure to leave enough for the strain relief to clamp on inside the tool.The two wires on the plug-it are blue and brown. Connect blue on the plug-it to white on the tool . This is ground or wide blade on the cord with plug. It is correct that the plug-it is for heavy amp cord only, which is no problem. Ned's information covers it . Each tool has a need that the two sizes fit. One or the other. One size may not fit all. You would be wise to look in the tool before you chose.
It is not hard to see why Festool does not have these plug-it's in litigious USA. :-[
All the usual disclaimers apply--if you choose to use this information, be careful and use your own judgement. Hope this helps.
It is not hard to see why Festool does not have these plug-it's in litigious USA. :-[
All the usual disclaimers apply--if you choose to use this information, be careful and use your own judgement. Hope this helps.
I just installed a (short) plug-it extension on my DX93. While it's easier
to put the tool back in its systainer, using it for sanding is not as
nice as it was. The heavier female/male plug combination is hanging off
and wagging a few inch away from the tool body, and it may get caught
to a wood piece or a clamp.
Please make an informed decision when ordering the adapter for this purpose
I ended up strapping the 2 plugs with a velcro to my homemade cord/home system
(thanks to this forum), but this does not totally eliminate the risk of being caught.
I'll try to make the female plug more rigidly attached to the DX93 body,
for instance by shortening the green wire to its minimum, then
strapping the two protecting rubber cones together with electrician tape.
to put the tool back in its systainer, using it for sanding is not as
nice as it was. The heavier female/male plug combination is hanging off
and wagging a few inch away from the tool body, and it may get caught
to a wood piece or a clamp.
Please make an informed decision when ordering the adapter for this purpose
I ended up strapping the 2 plugs with a velcro to my homemade cord/home system
(thanks to this forum), but this does not totally eliminate the risk of being caught.
I'll try to make the female plug more rigidly attached to the DX93 body,
for instance by shortening the green wire to its minimum, then
strapping the two protecting rubber cones together with electrician tape.
As requested, a few pics to illustrate a problem one may hit
when using the plug-it upgrade kit.
I calibrated my homemade cord/hose system so that
my TS55 operates smoothly and the cord can't get caught, but this
setup is not adequate for connecting the upgraded DX93. The four
pics below illustrate the problem and my solution.
Before one suggests it: It's a pain to slide the power cord inside the
tightly adjusted gorilla sleeve, else I would have tried to shorten
the tool side of it.
when using the plug-it upgrade kit.
I calibrated my homemade cord/hose system so that
my TS55 operates smoothly and the cord can't get caught, but this
setup is not adequate for connecting the upgraded DX93. The four
pics below illustrate the problem and my solution.
Before one suggests it: It's a pain to slide the power cord inside the
tightly adjusted gorilla sleeve, else I would have tried to shorten
the tool side of it.
I don't get why this improves the DX93. If you have to go through a routine, velcro, etc. to plug it in, why not just use the cord that comes with the tool? (Not that the solution is not elegant and attractive -- it is; it's just that plug-it to me means plug and go-- one cord twists on and off. Tool changes are quick and easy. With having to deal with the pigtail, doesn't it lose some of its effectiveness on this particular tool?)
Unexpected upgrade problems is precisely the point I wanted to
illustrate for the FOG members
Overall, I think the upgrade is beneficial, first when storing
the tool into its systainer (no cord rolling hassle), and second
I can use the hose/cord hanging off my homemade boom arm,
which are permanently connected to my CT22, without having
to reach it below the MFT to unplug a cord and plug another one.
The little cost of velcroing the pigtail plug to the hose is reduced
by always keeping a couple of velcro stripes ready to be used, rolled
around the tool side of the hose/cord system.
illustrate for the FOG members
Overall, I think the upgrade is beneficial, first when storing
the tool into its systainer (no cord rolling hassle), and second
I can use the hose/cord hanging off my homemade boom arm,
which are permanently connected to my CT22, without having
to reach it below the MFT to unplug a cord and plug another one.
The little cost of velcroing the pigtail plug to the hose is reduced
by always keeping a couple of velcro stripes ready to be used, rolled
around the tool side of the hose/cord system.
There is no way to shorten the wire since it has the minimum length allowing
to open the tool body (see attached picture) unless cutting the rubber thingies,
one or both, which I absolutely did not want to do, first to avoid risk of electrical
hazards from a torn wire when using the tool, and second not to void the
3 year warantee (I consider that since Festool markets this accessory
requiring to open the tool body for installation, installation implies not
voiding the warantee, plus my jobs have always been in the electricity
and electronics field)
to open the tool body (see attached picture) unless cutting the rubber thingies,
one or both, which I absolutely did not want to do, first to avoid risk of electrical
hazards from a torn wire when using the tool, and second not to void the
3 year warantee (I consider that since Festool markets this accessory
requiring to open the tool body for installation, installation implies not
voiding the warantee, plus my jobs have always been in the electricity
and electronics field)
the "nice" solution would be that Festool provides an upgrade part which includes the
female plug-it plug, and which would replace the half cylindrical plastic part which
is at the back of the DX93 (at left of the picture).
May be this is to put in the wish list.
female plug-it plug, and which would replace the half cylindrical plastic part which
is at the back of the DX93 (at left of the picture).
May be this is to put in the wish list.
Dave Ronyak
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 2,234
mhch said:
Please do. I'd like one for my DX 93.
Dave R.
My latest idea on this topic: both the DX93 and the
pigtail have identical but reversed rubber thingies around
the short green wire (see posted pics).
So I'm ordering a replacement part #487764 for the DX93,
i.e the part which is slided back on the picture showing the open DX93.
Then I'll try to epoxy (any better appropriate glue for
plastic parts, advice welcomed?) the female plug to it, while keeping a piece
of the rubber thingy inside for safety and solidity
That might well solve the problem and provide an adequate plug-it able
DX93. Will report on this when done.
pigtail have identical but reversed rubber thingies around
the short green wire (see posted pics).
So I'm ordering a replacement part #487764 for the DX93,
i.e the part which is slided back on the picture showing the open DX93.
Then I'll try to epoxy (any better appropriate glue for
plastic parts, advice welcomed?) the female plug to it, while keeping a piece
of the rubber thingy inside for safety and solidity
That might well solve the problem and provide an adequate plug-it able
DX93. Will report on this when done.
Dave Ronyak
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 2,234
MHCH,
I don't have a specific recommendation regarding the adhesives. I don't even know what polymer materials are used by Festool for various components, but I note that many German products have this information molded into their various components to facilitate later recycling. I'd experiment a little with your adhesives before doing the final assembly. Loctite markets some special variations of "super-glue" cyanoacrylate adhesives which it packages with a proprietary primer liquid that will bond polyethylene and polypropylene (which are polymer materials that are normally very hard to bond and which are typically joined by ultrasonic (frictional heat) welding. High molecular weight versions of PE and PP are what are used to make the slick strips and tapes we use. From having used many different types and brands of caulking materials, I have noticed that the copolymer types seem to have the best adhesion to the widest variety of materials, and that they retain excellent flexibility after cure, and accomodate much greater thermal expansion, e.g. vinyl siding around a pipe opening than other materials. But they are a mess to deal with - very tacky on application and any mis-application needs to be immediately cleaned up with solvent. Clear formula is available. Here's the URL to Geocel colpolymer caulk. http://www.geocelusa.com/php/oic/product.php?prdb_product_id=7. Polyurethane adhesive (caulk) may also work, but no guarantees or bets from me!! I am thinking that you would not want any bonded junction, if to the tool housing to be too strong and rigid, in case you later need to take it apart for replacement of the receptacle parts.
Dave R.
I don't have a specific recommendation regarding the adhesives. I don't even know what polymer materials are used by Festool for various components, but I note that many German products have this information molded into their various components to facilitate later recycling. I'd experiment a little with your adhesives before doing the final assembly. Loctite markets some special variations of "super-glue" cyanoacrylate adhesives which it packages with a proprietary primer liquid that will bond polyethylene and polypropylene (which are polymer materials that are normally very hard to bond and which are typically joined by ultrasonic (frictional heat) welding. High molecular weight versions of PE and PP are what are used to make the slick strips and tapes we use. From having used many different types and brands of caulking materials, I have noticed that the copolymer types seem to have the best adhesion to the widest variety of materials, and that they retain excellent flexibility after cure, and accomodate much greater thermal expansion, e.g. vinyl siding around a pipe opening than other materials. But they are a mess to deal with - very tacky on application and any mis-application needs to be immediately cleaned up with solvent. Clear formula is available. Here's the URL to Geocel colpolymer caulk. http://www.geocelusa.com/php/oic/product.php?prdb_product_id=7. Polyurethane adhesive (caulk) may also work, but no guarantees or bets from me!! I am thinking that you would not want any bonded junction, if to the tool housing to be too strong and rigid, in case you later need to take it apart for replacement of the receptacle parts.
Dave R.
festoolgolfer
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 43
the shipping would probably kill the deal.http://cgi.ebay.com/Festool-Plug-it...wItem?hash=item310082567448&_trkparms=72:1207|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
nickao
Member
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- Feb 24, 2008
- Messages
- 4,617
I went to the eBay link festoolgolfer. What the heck they can use ebay to sell everything Festool but the US companies can't, WTF?
Festool on ebay
It's funny that anything be considered cost prohibitive from Festool purchasers. If getting about 20 pigtails the shipping undoubtedly would not matter to any Festoolian that buys a kapex for 500.00 more than saws that are very nearly as good and in some people views better.
To me the hassle may be worth 50.00 for one pigtail, I will have to think about that.
Nickao
Festool on ebay
It's funny that anything be considered cost prohibitive from Festool purchasers. If getting about 20 pigtails the shipping undoubtedly would not matter to any Festoolian that buys a kapex for 500.00 more than saws that are very nearly as good and in some people views better.
To me the hassle may be worth 50.00 for one pigtail, I will have to think about that.
Nickao
nickao
Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2008
- Messages
- 4,617
I made a mistake I can get two for aprox 60.00 including shipping. The shipping really does not go up much, without shipping they are about 22.00 USA which is not that bad since you can not get them here at all.. It's that or nothing at this point. Shipping is about 17.50 USA for 1 or up to aprox 10 of them.
I will buy a couple and let you know how they work for me.
Nickao
I will buy a couple and let you know how they work for me.
Nickao
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