Precise, portable table saw?

[treesner]

So back to the OPs question in my opinion if you take the portable job site saws and stand them up to these questions they all come in mediocre. THere is a Powermatic and jet job site saw hat are a little larger than normal but much higher quality. I just avoid CPO altogether for their customer service.

I haven't really heard much about the jet or powermatic saws, any experience with them?

 

[mastercabman]

Which Dewalt were you using? I think I read the largest one is more powerful than the Bosch

The larger one
I used to have the large Bosch and I can tell a huge difference in power compared to the dewalt

 

[w802h]

I own a Bosch 4100 with the Gravity Stand.  At times I wish it was smaller for portability, but I really appreciate the stable platform and soft start motor.  I like it more with a Forrest Blade than a stock hardware store rip blade.  That's probably the biggest upgrade you could make.  I've also considered making a zero clearance insert. 

 

[Tayler_mann]

So back to the OPs question in my opinion if you take the portable job site saws and stand them up to these questions they all come in mediocre. THere is a Powermatic and jet job site saw hat are a little larger than normal but much higher quality. I just avoid CPO altogether for their customer service.

I haven't really heard much about the jet or powermatic saws, any experience with them?

I looked at a Jet one time it cost around $1200 I believe and was a belt driven blade. Which is a good upgrade from direct drive. It looked like it definitely was worth the extra money over the Bosch. Like I said before I find my Bosch to be a saw worth the 500 I spent. Remember though the gravity stand cost a little over $100. It's a cheap saw that works well for things if you have a jointer to fix the blades deflection. Both the Jet and Powermatic saw will be a step up from the Bosch and if you are smart with a table saw you do not need he saw stop mechanism. For me I realize that complacency kills all I am cautiously confident I don't need the saw stop.

What I do right now is use my Tracksaw and custom built MFT for everything until my sign shop moves and I can take over the shop space they are in and I'm buying a hammer than. It is a sliding table saw and is to be a very nice saw. The Mafel Erika as stated above is a saw like the Hammer just in a job site version. It had a small sliding table and router table along with I believe a few other goodies. I would PM the person who posted about the Mafel and ask him for info if you have any thoughts of spending $3500ish.

 

[tiralie]

I have a 4100 on a Rousseau table with a 3rd party fence mounted to the Rousseau frame. I have the gravity rise, but I don't use it.
Works well for a portable table and a direct drive saw. A high quality blade will make a lot of difference. Thin kerf will be more effiecient but deflect, so you will need to rely on feather boards regular kerf will bog down/slow cutting hard wood but will produce a cleaner cut.
I would look at a Powermatic or Jet belt driven/cast trunnion with a mobile base.
Tim

 

[Tayler_mann]

jet saw

Here is the link to the Jet saw I was talking about. Not nearly as Mobile but still a smaller saw and it is 10% off. I'm not sure how it performs it I gurantee it is a step up from the Bosch and Dewalt saw.

You know the other options is always going to the dark side and buying a track saw.  [eek]

 

[treesner]

I own a Bosch 4100 with the Gravity Stand.  At times I wish it was smaller for portability, but I really appreciate the stable platform and soft start motor.  I like it more with a Forrest Blade than a stock hardware store rip blade.  That's probably the biggest upgrade you could make.  I've also considered making a zero clearance insert.

This is the setup i'm leaning towards with incra miter gauge and maybe rousseau fence

 

[treesner]

I have a 4100 on a Rousseau table with a 3rd party fence mounted to the Rousseau frame. I have the gravity rise, but I don't use it.
Works well for a portable table and a direct drive saw. A high quality blade will make a lot of difference. Thin kerf will be more effiecient but deflect, so you will need to rely on feather boards regular kerf will bog down/slow cutting hard wood but will produce a cleaner cut.
I would look at a Powermatic or Jet belt driven/cast trunnion with a mobile base.
Tim

This is what i'm leaning toward the 4100 and the rousseau. Why did you upgrade the fence, I was planning on this setup for the fence. Any knowledge of this setup vs the sawstop (without rousseau)

 

[treesner]

PRECISE PORTABLE TABLE SAW UPDATE//

Taking into consideration suggestions of the forum and my own research I’m leaning away from the dewalt as there isn’t a rousseau available for the 7490 (edit just found out rousseau will be available nov2) and the 7480 doesn’t accept dados. Started Considering the sawstop (without rousseau, many good reviews but the price does add up quickly. It seems like the best setup for the money would be Bosch 4100 + Rousseau table. What do you think?

Here’s the specs i’ve pulled:

Saw stop job site // $1,399 (with cart)
-25.5” rip size
-3 1/8 depth
-79 lb (without cart) 108lb (with cart)
-15apm (slightly less power than bosch)
*-fence good reviews
-dados: 8”
-table: 43-3/8 x 22-5/8
Upgrades:
-blade: forest wwII ultra thin: $127
-zero clearence insert: make
-miter gauge: incra 1000se: $140
-fence: stock fence seems good, rousseau available nov2
-dado: Frued SD208 8”: $85
Total: $1751

Dewalt 7490 10” // $500 (without cart)
-28” rip size
-90 lbs
-15 amp (not as powerful as bosch)
*-fence has good reviews
-dados (745 does not) 8” up to 13/16
-table: 21-7/8 x 26-38
Upgrades:
-blade: forest wwII ultra thin: $127
-zero clearence insert: make
-miter gauge: incra 1000se: $140
*-fence: Rousseau available nov2: ~$430
-dado: Frued SD208 8”: $85
Total: $1282

Bosch 4100 10” // $538 (without cart)
-25” rip size
-99 lbs
-15 amp (known for being most powerful)
-fence doesn’t look good
-dados 8” 3/4”
Upgrades:
-blade: forest wwII ultra thin: $127
-zero clearence insert: make
-miter gauge: incra 1000se: $140
-fence: Rousseau 2776 table: $430
-dado: Frued SD208 8”: $85
Total: $1322

Dewalt 7480 10” // $400 (without wheels)
-24” rip size
*-67 lb
-15 amps at 4800 rpm
*-fence has good reviews
**-dados: mfg and reviews says doesn’t accept but one person said you could put 8” and "on the 745 and 7480 the back nut and the back flange are combined. The result is a slightly smaller assembly and the flange can't be removed, so no 13/16 dados. That said it looks 3/8 dado would be totally fine."
Upgrades:
-blade: forest wwII ultra thin: $127
-zero clearence insert: make
-miter gauge: incra 1000se: $140
-fence: Rousseau 2745 table: $380
-dado: Frued SD208 8”: $85
Total: $1006

Or moving into the bigger belt driven saws but I feel like it’s not the right time in my life as i’ll be moving around a lot and don’t have my own home

Jet jps-10ts 10” // $1214
-30” rip size
*-325 lbs (very heavy)
**-table 27 x 44 (very big)
**-not sure if this is 120 or 220
Upgrades:
*-wouldn’t need fence upgrade
*-maybe wouldn’t need a miter gauge, big enough for a sled
-blade: forest wwII ultra thin: $127
-zero clearence insert: make
-dado: Frued SD208 8”: $85
Total: $1426

 

[grbmds]

In the scheme of things this probably doesn't make any difference, but I have been using the Sawstop blade that came with the saw and the cuts are as good or better than the TS55 with the stock blade. I have mainly been using the saw for ripping and have not felt there is a need to upgrade the blade. I always run the ripped edge through the jointer once anyway and that is literally all it takes for this saw and blade. Unless you have a unique reason to upgrade the blade on the Sawstop I wouldn't even think about it or include it in your cost. The Forest blades are great, sure, but do you get enough of an improvement to warrant $127. I've never felt I would.

 

[Birdhunter]

My analysis on buying a Sawstop included the intangible value of my fingers. I have the Industrial version, but have heard good reports on the Contractor version.

 

[jacko9]

In the scheme of things this probably doesn't make any difference, but I have been using the Sawstop blade that came with the saw and the cuts are as good or better than the TS55 with the stock blade. I have mainly been using the saw for ripping and have not felt there is a need to upgrade the blade. I always run the ripped edge through the jointer once anyway and that is literally all it takes for this saw and blade. Unless you have a unique reason to upgrade the blade on the Sawstop I wouldn't even think about it or include it in your cost. The Forest blades are great, sure, but do you get enough of an improvement to warrant $127. I've never felt I would.

For me I don't want to do any finishing after I rip to "final" size and that's why I use Forrest blades.  I have been using them for over 35 years and I have a complete set with 20mm arbor holes for when I had my Inca saw (I should have given them to the guy that bought that saw) and a full set of 5/8" arbor blades for my Powermatic.  I use the Woodworker II, the Woodworker II (thin kerf), the King Dado set the, Duraline Hi-AT blade for cutting plywood (with perfect edges) and for thick final rip cuts in very hard wood I use the Ultra-Planer.

Jack

 

[treesner]

In the scheme of things this probably doesn't make any difference, but I have been using the Sawstop blade that came with the saw and the cuts are as good or better than the TS55 with the stock blade. I have mainly been using the saw for ripping and have not felt there is a need to upgrade the blade. I always run the ripped edge through the jointer once anyway and that is literally all it takes for this saw and blade. Unless you have a unique reason to upgrade the blade on the Sawstop I wouldn't even think about it or include it in your cost. The Forest blades are great, sure, but do you get enough of an improvement to warrant $127. I've never felt I would.

Good to know that sawstop comes with a good blade making it closer in price to the different kits i've listed.

It seems like the sawstop is the best option out of the box but wondering how it compares to something like the bosh with upgraded blade and rousseau fence. Wonder when bosch is putting out it's sawstop feature, the 'bosch reaxx' I think I read fall 2015

 

[grbmds]

In the scheme of things this probably doesn't make any difference, but I have been using the Sawstop blade that came with the saw and the cuts are as good or better than the TS55 with the stock blade. I have mainly been using the saw for ripping and have not felt there is a need to upgrade the blade. I always run the ripped edge through the jointer once anyway and that is literally all it takes for this saw and blade. Unless you have a unique reason to upgrade the blade on the Sawstop I wouldn't even think about it or include it in your cost. The Forest blades are great, sure, but do you get enough of an improvement to warrant $127. I've never felt I would.

I have found the rip fence on the Sawstop Jobsite saw easy to use and accurate so far. I don't feel the need to measure once I began using it and became familiar with it. As I said, I joint all wood I rip anyway, so I generally rip about 1/32" wider than needed and run it through the jointer once (unless there is some reason to make it wider). I don't feel the need to upgrade it. It's fine right out of the box. I did not do any setup on my saw other than installing the handles on the stand. Sawstop packaged it in the box so that you can do that by yourself using the box for support. It does give me peace of mind knowing that, if I do make a mistake and get my hand near the blade, I won't suffer for it. Don't get me wrong, I'm very careful, but age and the rare possible distraction are always possible. I think it's a great saw, but that's just my opinion.

Good to know that sawstop comes with a good blade making it closer in price to the different kits i've listed.

It seems like the sawstop is the best option out of the box but wondering how it compares to something like the bosh with upgraded blade and rousseau fence. Wonder when bosch is putting out it's sawstop feature, the 'bosch reaxx' I think I read fall 2015

 

[treesner]

[member=19734]grbmds[/member] also what do you think about the sawstop jobsite saw's  miter guage?

 

[rizzoa13]

Seriously look into the mafell Erika it's BY FAR the most capable saw out of the box. With the extrusions on all sides, the sliding table and the pull function of the saw its really just up to your imagination what you can do with it.

Having a second saw capable of easily cross cutting wide stock is also really nice when I have the kapex set to an odd angle and dont want to change it. Not so easy to do with a saw without a sliding table or a blade that pulls toward you. Check it out.

 

[curt boyer]

The JSS miter gauge is small and plastic and the rail isn't very long. There is a lot to like about the saw but the miter gauge and stock blade doesn't live up to the rest of the saw.
Cheers
Curt

 

[grbmds]

[member=19734]grbmds[/member] also what do you think about the sawstop jobsite saw's  miter guage?

The miter gauge is the single biggest disappointment with the Sawstop Jobsite saw. I'm not sure of the reason for the low quality miter gauge. Was it that they reached their price point goal and couldn't justify adding any more to the price? (Doesn't seem like Sawstop.) A friend of mine thought it might be that, since it's intended for the jobsite, there was no need to put in a higher quality miter gauge. (I don't think that makes sense either.) In the end, it didn't matter for me. I have a digital miter gauge with an adjustable bar that works on the saw. It is a Craftsman and not the best, but actually very accurate and much better than the Sawstop gauge. Plus, with a longer bar it makes up for the shortened infeed table (since the overall table is smaller than a cabinet saw). If one of the major uses of the saw is crosscutting, then an upgraded miter gauge is almost a requirement. I do most of my crosscuts on the MFT with my TS55. It does the best job for me. (Plus, I now have the MFT Square from Woodpecker's and my fence/guide rail are always a perfect 90 degrees).

 

[Kev]

Sadly I think this hunt will ultimately turn into a quest for a unicorn [sad]

Unless you fork out for something like an Erika (I'm feeling Festool's CS70 is a little long in the tooth these days), I don't think you're going to get a portable to meet your needs.

I'd be very happy to be wrong and I'm not aware of everything available in your market.

 

[Holmz]

[member=13058]Kev[/member]  It seems like what I am of the belief if as well.
It takes a lot of rainbow coloured notes to get that specific Unicorn, but everyone that has one seems to rave about it... And if it does the job of a Kapex, then the cost seems somewhat offsetable.

I am trying now to figure out whether it is about as good as a more permanent saw (and saving mostly green and yellow notes). And making sure I really need it. The track saw only does so much easily...