[Project 48] Black Walnut California King Bed w/ Floating Nightstands

[mattbyington]

Well... this is going to be a big one.

The slats on the stool (see project 47) were really a "try it out" for this one, which has 50 slats in total.

I have some 10/4, 6/4 and 4/4 walnut in the shop and getting started now.

This will be a multiple-month build but I'll keep posting progress on here.

Matt

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[mattbyington]

Here you can see the templates I am working on for the Shaper, they reference the shaper's workstation and have a precise angle in them.

The other picture, you can see the angles - because they're different heights, all 3 sets of slats (headboard, footboard, and night stands) will have 3 different angles.

Also, I rough cut all 50 slats from 4/4 to length (3 different lengths).

Matt

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[rvieceli]

[member=67555]mattbyington[/member] an ambitious project for sure. Looks good.

Consider incorporating some supports to the floor on that center spine in the platform. Depending on how the headboard is configured, I would do maybe one at the headboard and one in the middle of that span.

If you aren’t locked into the foot board design it might look more cohesive if you extended the same width as the rails around the end.

Ron

 

[mattbyington]

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member] thanks man!

Yeah great idea. It's hard to see in the diagram I posted but here is what I have so far for structural integrity: All 4 posts are solid 3" square. There are two horizontal ones on the footboard and headboard respectively connecting them together (there are other horizontals but those are 1.5" thick).

Then, there's one in the middle of the bed connecting those two 3" ones mentioned above to each other. If that makes sense. This one that I am talking about here is the one. where the mattress slats meet in the middle.

So there is quite a bit of rigidity already, so what I am thinking is I can try it out, and like you said, always add feet underneath that middle one easily!

Matt

 

[mattbyington]

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Ok everything is rough cut now. The slats are done except for joinery.

Stupid question for you all. These 10/4 beams are serious. The longest are 84” final and 70.25”.

Too dangerous for miter gauge on the table saw and I don’t have a sled.

My TS55 only cuts 2/3 of the way through them.

I obviously want clean straight square ends before I start the joinery.

Would you all cut as much as I can with the track saw and then flush trim the last bit? It’s end grain so thinking that might not be great.

I am worried about lining the two cuts up perfectly if I flip the board over to cut on the other side.

Sorry if it’s a stupid question!

Matt

 

[tjbnwi]

Make a U shaped stop with legs longer the the beam depth to set the rail. Clamp it to the beam, but rail against the stop, make cut, lift rail, flip beam without moving U shaped stop, but rail against stop, finish cut.

Tom

 

[Peter_C]

I am worried about lining the two cuts up perfectly if I flip the board over to cut on the other side.

Sorry if it’s a stupid question!

Matt

Hey if you need someone to say it is okay to go and pick up a new Kapex, I'll be your Huckleberry. Maybe a stand, some wings and a couple of blades to go along with it. Are you seriously building all this beautiful furniture without a miter saw?

A table saw sled is awesome to have. Bigger isn't always better. I have a large Biesemeyer sled, but find a small sled to be perfect for cutting items that are smaller than a hand, down to eights of an inch.

Tom's method would work too, and with 3 MFT's you should be able to configure a way to make it work.

Looking forward to seeing this project completed.

 

[nclemmons]

Two alternatives…

Have you considered going with smaller beams on the side?  You don’t really need that large a beam and could get by with something narrower through your planer.  A 1.5” beam with a third 1” x 3/4” piece glued and screwed to the inside would give you plenty of strength, and you cut it all with your track saw.

I have the 13” TSO rail that along with their GRS would work well for a cross cut.

Second approach would be to not use a rail, but just make a ‘collar’ from 1/2” or even 1/4” masonite that the side rails slip into and then run the base of the saw along that collar on one side and then flip and do the same on the other.  Make the collar with square and flush edges and if your saw is set square, that would give you a suitably square edge cut from both sides.

 

[squall_line]

I don't see anything nearly as thick as 10/4 in your drawing other than perhaps the corner posts.  Is the plan to rip the 10/4 into 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 posts?

 

[mattbyington]

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] Tom - thanks so much for the suggestion. I've been trying to visualize what you are describing. Does the top of the "U" sit/straddle the top of the beam? If so, when I turn the beam over wouldn't it cause out of square issues since the beam is resting on it? I supposed I could make a second one for the left side of the beam to prop it up. I've been thinking of something roughly similar to what you described. I'll think on it some more and see if I can make it work.

[member=50292]Peter_C[/member] hahahah thanks man. That would be awesome. I'll admit the thought crossed my mind indeed. Nope, never had a miter saw. I've been doing all my breaking down on the TS55/3 MFTs, and the final cross cuts also there or at the miter gauge on table saw depending on how long/big the pieces are. I'd love a miter saw. It's not the cost as much as the space at the moment. I think for it to be useful I'd need a large stand or miter station. Maybe one day. Thanks for the kind words.

[member=167]neilc[/member] yes definitely I've thought about. The wife wanted the look of 3" square and honestly, I want to build it once and do it right and have it stand up for a long time. I'm typically not one to try to compromise the design of something because it'd be easier. I'd rather designing it the way I want it and then try to build it. But I think you're right, 2" or 2.5" would probably be fine for the legs. I think aesthetically we want the 3" as well. This build won't have any screws in it (like I try to do the majority of my builds). It's just wood and glue. Although I will have some long 6" bed bolts to connect the rails to the footboard and headboard. But the footboard and headboard themself will be pure mortise and tenon and just glue. The collar idea is good. I'll think about that and visualize it. I appreciate you commenting man!

[member=75217]squall_line[/member] hey man! Let me try to paste this below. This'll give you a better idea of the parts involved with the main frame. The 10/4 stock is going towards 6 legs (4 normal posts and then 2 on the night stand corners), 2x horizontal pieces connecting the legs of both headboard and footboard, and then 1 84" long piece that is right in the middle for support.

Thanks so much everyone for commenting. I really appreciate the help. I'll sleep on it and try to put your ideas together to form a plan. I still need to mill everything - it's all rough cut now, so I have a day or two until I need to cut to final size.

PS - hoping some of these views I just captured from the 3D model show the mortise and tenons.

Matt

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[tjbnwi]

[member=67555]mattbyington[/member],

Yes, a sturdy U shaped stop. The legs of the U would stick past the opposite edge of the beams than the bottom of the U is resting. Clamp it firmly in place.

Good idea to prop the beam up off the stop.

You could make a stop for each end making the process a little faster.

Tom

 

[tallgrass]

UGH, more depressingly great work and thoughtful planning. Love it. A couple of questions, do you generate actual working drawing and what is the wood wheeled wood cat. Keep it up. !!

 

[sancho57]

Looking fwd to followingvyer build Matt you always do such good work

 

[Cheese]

UGH, more depressingly great work and thoughtful planning.

As someone on this forum might say....BWA-HAHAHAHA!!!!

 

[squall_line]

what is the wood wheeled wood cat

It appears to be a Basnik Tandem Ver-T Rack:
https://basnik.com/ver-t-rack-systems/support-structures/

 

[tallgrass]

WOW, I had no idea these existed, and i am a tool and organizational whore. The question then becomes how does one get one in the USA, specifically in Cal? Thanks for the 411.

 

[Cheese]

WOW, I had no idea these existed, and i am a tool and organizational whore. The question then becomes how does one get one in the USA, specifically in Cal? Thanks for the 411.

Here's the contact information.
https://basnik.com/contact/

 

[mattbyington]

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] got it, thanks Tom!

[member=2242]tallgrass[/member] hahaha, thanks man! Yes I do. So I do the 3D designs in Fusion 360 by AutoDesk. And in Fusion, you can generate drawings right from the model, with dimensions and such. I have found it really helpful to reference during a build. Actually I got the cart on McMasterCarr for those familiar - let me get a link. You need to purchase the correct model (I got the double wide model) and then purchase hanger beams and then arms. So make sure you get everything. I got :https://www.mcmaster.com/4651T14/

And then the hanger beams and arms.

[member=10147]jobsworth[/member] thanks man!!

[member=75217]squall_line[/member] wow, great eye! I actually didn't even know the model or manufacturer since I purchased from McMaster, but that does look like it! If you purchase from McMaster they are so awesome with shipping, it'll deliver via freight like in 2 days.

It's 330 pounds and solid welded. 8,000 pound capacity I think.

[member=2242]tallgrass[/member] I would recommend going to McMaster to order for US! You'll get it in like 2-3 days from when you order!

Matt

 

[tallgrass]

As a Mechanical engineer I am a blueprint/drawing fanatic. I can not function without them. Many are blessed with out the need. Fusion 360 seems to be a blessing for the world. I go back to autocad 11 and a drafting table. So I actually found 360 somewhat difficult to get used to, However i do like it now. Did you know CAD before you started in your wood working?

 

[mattbyington]

[member=2242]tallgrass[/member] I didn't know CAD before woodworking, no. My brother is a mechanical engineer and my father is an electrical engineer. I am in the software engineering industry. Between us, we can usually help each other out in the different disciplines.

I first started learning CAD actually because of the small CNC I purchased - the Nomad 883 Pro. I would design simple shapes to cut out like a coaster or something. I think that was in 2018 or 2019. I used SketchUp a bit but Fusion is so much more powerful. I had to watch a lot of videos to understand it, and even today I am still very much a beginner. This bed design really stretched me in terms of CAD skill.

But there is really nothing like spending the right amount of time so that by the time you get down to the shop you have a clear, concise and correct set of plans to work off of. The builds always go better.

This weekend was all about MILLING, baby! We rough cut and milled up all of the 10/4 and 6/4 stock. We milled up some 4/4 stock to laminate onto the 10/4 to get that final 3" thickness I'm looking for.

We rough-ripped everything to 3.25" (to get cleaned up after the lamination dries).

Because of the number of clamps I have, this week will be slow doing 1 lamination at a time.

There are 9 total and I have 5 done as of last night (Sunday night).

After that, will be time to joint and plane and clean up everything to final thickness and width.

Then.... the part I am dreading, doing the cross cuts. I still need to figure out a plan there. Thinking about it. Thankful for all of your suggestions.

Matt