Question about the Surfix system.

[bub254]

I'm thoroughly tired of polyurethane and i'm thinking of buying the Surfix.  My question for those who have used it is when performing the intermediate sanding on profiled edges or curved surfaces where mechanical sanding is impractical, what method do you use to remove dust? 

Also, how would you rate it in terms of ease of use?  Drying time in unheated spaces.  Thanks.

 

[Staniam]

Great questions as I'm also very interested in the Surfix kit.

 

[tjbnwi]

The Suffix system is great on flat areas, the detail areas is where the system is lacking.

I have the RO-90, this helps with the detail areas. Currently there are no abrasive Viles for the RO-90 so you have to be willing to cut the Viles for the larger sanders to fit the 90.

If the 90 wont work, you have to do the detail work by hand. That includes the buffing process normal done with the Viles on one of the sanders.

All that said, the Surfix System is well worth adding to your finishing process. I'm currently looking into doing a bar top with the outdoor oil. It has to pass a spilled alcohol and sweating glass test I'm working on.

I have the 125 sanders and RTS sanders also.

Tom

 

[bub254]

How tedious is the buffing process by hand?  And do you just use a tack cloth to clean up after?

 

[Staniam]

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] can you also explain what you mean by abrasive vines for the RO90? Forgive me but I'm not sure what you mean by abrasive vines and I'm interested because I'm picking up a Bosch multitool soon and will be using it for detail sanding.

 

[johninthecamper]

No flat surface experience here,but on small or curvey stuff,I have applied with flux brushes,lots of small disposable paint brushes,even reverted back to a rag once.  I have used the supplied viles by hand,oversized or cut down, on my  ro90(or in delta mode( with a round pad)) and on my ls130  and rts. can't use in the cold and time is relative to temp. the dust is very minimal by hand,partly because its clumpy/heavy . I have blown it off with compressed air. don't  think it could get any easier for a flat or large surface other than paying somebody to do it. passes the gunstock test

 

[tjbnwi]

How tedious is the buffing process by hand?  And do you just use a tack cloth to clean up after?

No more tedious than any hand buffing/polishing process.

Never a tack cloth after buffing.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] can you also explain what you mean by abrasive vines for the RO90? Forgive me but I'm not sure what you mean by abrasive vines and I'm interested because I'm picking up a Bosch multitool soon and will be using it for detail sanding.

It is non-abrasive Vlies (I spelled it wrong in my first post, it is pronounced fleece). It comes in two weaves, a green for the first buff-in and a white for the final polish. It is this Vlies;

https://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/finishing/surfix-oil-applicator/abrasives/vlies-polishing-abrasive-for-surfix-white-6-d150-10-pack-496509

https://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/finishing/surfix-oil-applicator/abrasives/vlies-polishing-abrasive-for-surfix-green-6-d150-10-pack-496508

The Vlies that is has a grit number is not what you want to use for the Surfix application.

I have been told that Festool is considering a 125 and 90 Surfix Vlies.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

This stool is finished with Suffix. The curves had to be finished by hand.
https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/Stool

Tom

 

[Cheese]

I'm thoroughly tired of polyurethane and i'm thinking of buying the Surfix.  My question for those who have used it is when performing the intermediate sanding on profiled edges or curved surfaces where mechanical sanding is impractical, what method do you use to remove dust? 

I'm also a big fan of the Surfix system. For furniture exposed to the outside elements, I haven't hit upon a better alternative. I have teak furniture outdoors and have tried all of the teak oils, boat oils, and penetrating oils, but the Festool Outdoor oil seems to give the longest service life of any of the competitors.

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[sancho57]

I'm thoroughly tired of polyurethane and i'm thinking of buying the Surfix.  My question for those who have used it is when performing the intermediate sanding on profiled edges or curved surfaces where mechanical sanding is impractical, what method do you use to remove dust? 

Also, how would you rate it in terms of ease of use?  Drying time in unheated spaces.  Thanks.

In the states I used almost exclusively GF Enduro I used it before it was bought by GF and known as Endure coat.

Since Im in the UK don't have spray equipment Ive been experimenting with the different trad euro finishes. Im becoming a big fan of shellac and going over it with wax . Ive started using Antiqwax (stuff inna blue can/tin). Things seem to be coming out nice.

But that is only for indoor things and things not getting any exposure to water. As Im renting here, Im not going to have any real outdoor projects anytime soon.

I have my to do list when I return to the states. One of them is building a couple of gates and and a enclosure for my A/C unit.
Im going to use the Suffix system to finish them. I think it will give me the best protection and give me the natural look I want for the cedar I plan on building them out of.

 

[Kev]

The Suffix system is great on flat areas, the detail areas is where the system is lacking.

I have the RO-90, this helps with the detail areas. Currently there are no abrasive Viles for the RO-90 so you have to be willing to cut the Viles for the larger sanders to fit the 90.

If the 90 wont work, you have to do the detail work by hand. That includes the buffing process normal done with the Viles on one of the sanders.

All that said, the Surfix System is well worth adding to your finishing process. I'm currently looking into doing a bar top with the outdoor oil. It has to pass a spilled alcohol and sweating glass test I'm working on.

I have the 125 sanders and RTS sanders also.

Tom

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] have you just cut circular Viles for the RO90, or did you also cut triangular?

(just curious)

 

[tjbnwi]

The Suffix system is great on flat areas, the detail areas is where the system is lacking.

I have the RO-90, this helps with the detail areas. Currently there are no abrasive Viles for the RO-90 so you have to be willing to cut the Viles for the larger sanders to fit the 90.

If the 90 wont work, you have to do the detail work by hand. That includes the buffing process normal done with the Viles on one of the sanders.

All that said, the Surfix System is well worth adding to your finishing process. I'm currently looking into doing a bar top with the outdoor oil. It has to pass a spilled alcohol and sweating glass test I'm working on.

I have the 125 sanders and RTS sanders also.

Tom

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] have you just cut circular Viles for the RO90, or did you also cut triangular?

(just curious)

Both. The ones that I have to cut,it seems that the edges fray a little faster.

Tom

 

[bub254]

So for anyone who has used both, Osmo or Surfix? 
I'm primarily concerned with achieving decent results without needing a week to finish a project. 
Less hand work and more tool work ie rotex buffing is a secondary concern, but not a deal breaker.

 

[Holmz]

I'm thoroughly tired of polyurethane and i'm thinking of buying the Surfix.  My question for those who have used it is when performing the intermediate sanding on profiled edges or curved surfaces where mechanical sanding is impractical, what method do you use to remove dust? 

I'm also a big fan of the Surfix system. For furniture exposed to the outside elements, I haven't hit upon a better alternative. I have teak furniture outdoors and have tried all of the teak oils, boat oils, and penetrating oils, but the Festool Outdoor oil seems to give the longest service life of any of the competitors.

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[member=44099]Cheese[/member] when the snow clears... Is this all still true?
I am trying to work my head around what to do.
I have been using a 50/50 (Maloof) mix of linseed and tung.
Considering what Surfix should be good for... Can one lacquer over it?
I am not getting a great shine with the Maloof, so I am thinking I should either post sand with higher grits first, or use vlies in the process with the maloof-blend.

Any insight is appreciated.

 

[Cheese]

[member=40772]Holmz[/member]
Just went outside and took a couple of pictures. I have to preface this by saying that the table is covered, however the cover isn't water proof, only water resistant. So this is how the table looks after 9 months of snow, ice, water, sun and daily use.
I guess I'll be sanding and oiling with Surfix again this year. It's a yearly pilgrimage of sorts. [tongue]

I'm going to try to blend in the bad areas with new oil and see what happens. At this point I don't have anything to lose, if that doesn't work I'll have to completely refinish it anyways.

These are the 2 sides of the table after 9 months, the 3rd photo is the table refinished 9 months ago in August.

 

[leakyroof]

[member=40772]Holmz[/member]
Just went outside and took a couple of pictures. I have to preface this by saying that the table is covered, however the cover isn't water proof, only water resistant. So this is how the table looks after 6 months of snow, ice and water. I guess I'll be sanding and oiling with Surfix again this year. It's a yearly pilgrimage of sorts. [tongue]

One side...

. Yeah, your experience mirrors what I've seen.
At least we don't seem to get mold or mildew stains using the Surfix Outdoor Oil, unlike some products

 

[leakyroof]

I'm thoroughly tired of polyurethane and i'm thinking of buying the Surfix.  My question for those who have used it is when performing the intermediate sanding on profiled edges or curved surfaces where mechanical sanding is impractical, what method do you use to remove dust? 

I'm also a big fan of the Surfix system. For furniture exposed to the outside elements, I haven't hit upon a better alternative. I have teak furniture outdoors and have tried all of the teak oils, boat oils, and penetrating oils, but the Festool Outdoor oil seems to give the longest service life of any of the competitors.

[attachthumb=1]

[attachthumb=2]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] when the snow clears... Is this all still true?
I am trying to work my head around what to do.
I have been using a 50/50 (Maloof) mix of linseed and tung.
Considering what Surfix should be good for... Can one lacquer over it?
I am not getting a great shine with the Maloof, so I am thinking I should either post sand with higher grits first, or use vlies in the process with the maloof-blend.

Any insight is appreciated.

. I have applied Epifanes Varnish over it with no bad results. Let the oil dry a good week before varnishing unless you've got really warm weather or working temps . Then , you need less cure time if it's hot.
For a glossier shine, I've had good results with the burnishing techniques that others have posted about here on FOG and also talkFestool.
Platin abrasives help me with that above what I get with Vlies.

 

[Cheese]

It's not perfect, however the other products I've used in the past were more susceptible to peeling and degradation than the Surfix outdoor oil.

 

[leakyroof]

It's not perfect, however the other products I've used in the past were more susceptible to peeling and degradation than the Surfix outdoor oil.

Oh true, totally .  Low odor when drying, so you can apply the finish indoors say when the weather doesn't want to cooperate with work outdoors.
Quick drying too.  I just wish Festool would up the UV protection additives in the Outdoor Oil.