Question about the Surfix system.

[Cheese]

Ya, 100% behind that statement. The UV protection along with the humidity, rain & snow protection needs to be adjusted accordingly. It's basically good stuff, it just needs to be tweaked a bit.

 

[Holmz]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] - so I am thinking I should "give it a go"?

Is it basically like tung where I can coat it with poly or lacquer after it cures?
And does it polymerise/cure like a tung/linseed?

 

[leakyroof]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] - so I am thinking I should "give it a go"?

Is it basically like tung where I can coat it with poly or lacquer after it cures?
And does it polymerise/cure like a tung/linseed?

. Pure Linseed Oil or Tung Oil dry slowly, unlike Polymerized Oil , which has driers added to it.  Given that the Surfix oil seems to dry fairly quickly, I think it has driers added to it.
I have had zero issues top coating it with Oil Based Varnishes. I don't work with lacquer much, so I can't comment on that .

 

[Holmz]

Ok I gave it a go. The Haus-Boss picked up a pergola from Bunning, which is like Lowes or Home Depot.
I used the whole outdoor container as it was nigglly work getting the slats all coated.
Then as it was piled on I wiped it with a cloth.

The idea of working with the pad went out the window as the sun faded away.

The whole deal took ~1:40. A floor would be nice n easy .

The main question is: There is normal heavy duty and outdoor... can I (should I) I just outdoor for everything?

And secondly should I do something more than a coat? The damned thing was $50 and in time and surfix it seems a battle... But honey points are better than the bee's stinger.

 

[leakyroof]

Ok I gave it a go. The Haus-Boss picked up a pergola from Bunning, which is like Lowes or Home Depot.
I used the whole outdoor container as it was nigglly work getting the slats all coated.
Then as it was piled on I wiped it with a cloth.

The idea of working with the pad went out the window as the sun faded away.

The whole deal took ~1:40. A floor would be nice n easy .

The main question is: There is normal heavy duty and outdoor... can I (should I) I just outdoor for everything?

And secondly should I do something more than a coat? The damned thing was $50 and in time and surfix it seems a battle... But honey points are better than the bee's stinger.

  I would use Outdoor, as it DOES have some nice anti-fungus or mildew additives in that oil. The Outdoor Oil may not stand much of a chance with UV degrading unless recoated as needed, but I've never gotten Black Stains or Mildew from using it in fairly wet conditions unlike plain Linseed Oil.

 

[Holmz]

Thanks I guess I will get a refiller.

 

[Holmz]

Back at it with the 5ltr outdoor HD surfix. Using this on high quality plywood.

These were hit lightly with a 320 Mirka screen, the stained, then after a day a light sand with a 600 Mirka screen, to just remove any pieces of rag that was used to put the stain on.
I left it on 15 minutes and then took the green pad to it and then wiped off the excess.
Went back a day later with another coat and same pores with the white pad.
Seems like it was a lot of it on the surface both times.

Today I put on a coat on some new ply pieces.
Same process with the stain.
Put it on and waited 45 minutes ~55F (13C) in the garage.
Hit it with the White pad, waited another 45 minutes for the news to end, and then took to it with the rag to get rid of the pooled up/wet sections.
Seemed to be a lot less of this time around.

Any suggestions for winter use/process is welcome.

 

[Cheese]

And secondly should I do something more than a coat?

[member=40772]Holmz[/member]
In my opinion the second coat is where the magic happens. I tried some items using only one coat and it didn't last that long. Once I went to 2 coats everything looks better and lasts 3-4 times longer. Also, the 2nd coat goes a lot faster because the pores of the wood have been filled with the 1st coat.

 

[Cheese]

I would use Outdoor, as it DOES have some nice anti-fungus or mildew additives in that oil. The Outdoor Oil may not stand much of a chance with UV degrading unless recoated as needed, but I've never gotten Black Stains or Mildew from using it in fairly wet conditions unlike plain Linseed Oil.

I agree, rather than turning black it just lightens up in color and seems to go away.

The 1st picture below shows a teak table treated with 2 coats of outdoor Surfix after a year's exposure to the elements, even though it was covered.
The other 2 photos are after sanding & 2 coats of outdoor Surfix.

 

[Holmz]

And secondly should I do something more than a coat?

[member=40772]Holmz[/member]
In my opinion the second coat is where the magic happens. I tried some items using only one coat and it didn't last that long. Once I went to 2 coats everything looks better and lasts 3-4 times longer. Also, the 2nd coat goes a lot faster because the pores of the wood have been filled with the 1st coat.

^Noted^...
On the last one the second coat did not seem to do a whole lot, so maybe I need to also let it sit on there longer??

 

[Cheese]

^Noted^...
On the last one the second coat did not seem to do a whole lot, so maybe I need to also let it sit on there longer??

I've always applied Surfix outdoors, in full sunlight with ambient temps in the 75-85 (24-29 C ) degree range, so the stuff dries really fast. If you're in the 55 degree range, it's going to take some time, maybe even a day? [eek]

The first coat soaks into the wood while the second coat dries on the surface.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I have a question...which if any of the Surfix products is similar to Osmo PolyX?

 

[leakyroof]

I thought it was the Heavy Duty Oil..  Doesn't Osmo make the oils for Festool?  I thought someone had tracked that down when the Surfix package first showed up for us.

 

[Holmz]

I thought it was the Heavy Duty Oil..  Doesn't Osmo make the oils for Festool?  I thought someone had tracked that down when the Surfix package first showed up for us.

Sounds likely.

^Noted^...
On the last one the second coat did not seem to do a whole lot, so maybe I need to also let it sit on there longer??

I've always applied Surfix outdoors, in full sunlight with ambient temps in the 75-85 (24-29 C ) degree range, so the stuff dries really fast. If you're in the 55 degree range, it's going to take some time, maybe even a day? [eek]

The first coat soaks into the wood while the second coat dries on the surface.

The question is more on when to wipe off the excess.
I put it on to the point the wood is covered.
Then I hit it with the pad and it's obviously pooled and stringy/honey in a pattern.

Then I wait longer and wipe off the excess with an old sock or t shirt.
It was 15 minutes, but as I have no control over the weather I did 45 yesterday.
Today's coat went on the second side, so I will have a feed and watch the news and then wipe it off.

For coat #2 (tomorrow) I am still interested in the time I should wait esteem the lad work and the wipe it off... Or to I actually leave it on like a thick film?

 

[Cheese]

For coat #2 (tomorrow) I am still interested in the time I should wait esteem the lad work and the wipe it off... Or to I actually leave it on like a thick film?

I never put on that much to get a thick film, I always use the application sponge and try to level out the coating so it's even. Using the sponge, if there is a lot of oil on the surface, the sponge will reabsorb some of the oil and then redeposit it in a dryer area. I'll actually go over the table 2-3 times trying to get uniform oil coverage which can be recognized by a uniform sheen on the table and then I let it dry, usually overnight.

 

[Holmz]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] that is what I am doing, so on coat #1 it is needs enough to be able to spread the juiciness with the pad. When I come back there are starved parts, so I hit it with the round pad on the sander, and it gets evenly distributed with some pigtail'ly pattern that quickly levels out. Then 45 minutes laters it has starved areas and some with standing oil, and I wipe the excess with a rag just enough to remove any "standing film".

So should I be leaving the standing film?

 

[Cheese]

No Holmz, I think you're fine if you remove the standing puddles. It's always kind of touch & go because as you noticed, the oil absorbs and dries differently across the entire surface. That's the reason I'll go over each coat 2-3 times to try to keep things uniform. I think it's important at this stage to get the oil to dry or otherwise it could turn into a sticky/gummy mess. Just let it dry and if you don't like it, you can always give it 1 more coat.

As I like to say...Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.  [eek]