Question about which sander

[jasperv]

Hello People,

I am a new user to the forum and this will be my first post!

Recently I put a new hardwood floor in my house which is glued together. At some spots some glue came out of the connection between the boards which I rubbed away with a moist towel as per instruction. I noticed there are some spots on the floor where the glue apparently wasn't completely removed.

After consolidation with the floor supplier he told me I should sand the spots with grit 120 before oiling.

Since I don't want to take any changes missing some spots I want to go over the board connections with sander so all the spots are removed.

I'm looking for a nice festool sander which can do this job for me. It should be a really fine and controllable sander since I REALLY don't want to take any material of the actual floor.

Thanks for the help!!

Kind regards,
Jasper

 

[bobfog]

I'd say the RO90 in fine random orbit mode would be ideal. However, depending on what glue was used you may actually have more success with some very warm water on an abrasive pad if it's a water based glue.

The danger with spot sanding is whilst you might get rid of the glue, the pitch might not completely match the surrounding area. So I'd try he least aggressive method of hot water and scrubbing with a lightly abrasive pad first.

 

[jasperv]

I'd say the RO90 in fine random orbit mode would be ideal. However, depending on what glue was used you may actually have more success with some very warm water on an abrasive pad if it's a water based glue.

The danger with spot sanding is whilst you might get rid of the glue, the pitch might not completely match the surrounding area. So I'd try he least aggressive method of hot water and scrubbing with a lightly abrasive pad first.

It's PVAC glue. I'm not sure if that's water based.

What do you mean with pitch? the angle in which I hold the grinder?

 

[andrew.wickes]

Here's a question, what do you plan on doing with the sander after the floor is done? If you're only getting the sander for the floor, I'd look at something cheaper.

If you really want a Festool for this, I'd go as wide as possible. If budget is an issue, look at the ETS 125. Less than $200 and 5" wide. If money isn't an issue, there's the ETS 150 series or the RO 150. There's also the RS 2 or LS 130.

 

[jasperv]

Here's a question, what do you plan on doing with the sander after the floor is done? If you're only getting the sander for the floor, I'd look at something cheaper.

I've actually got 9 more doors and frames to sand several times and paint. Furthermore I got 3 complete staircases to sand before painting.

 

[andrew.wickes]

Look at the DTS 400 or the RO 90. The DTS 400 is a delta sander but could use it for the squeeze out. The RO 90 has the delta pad you can put on. Those will definitely be help for the stairs and doors to get in the corners.

 

[tiralie]

It should be a really fine and controllable sander since I REALLY don't want to take any material of the actual floor.

The RO 90 is too aggressive a sander for your purposes. It is difficult to control if not experienced and because of he small diameter it can create high and low spots if you inadvertently tip it while sanding.  The ETS 125 or the 150 is a much better choice and is a very serviceable sander for your other tasks.
Tim

 

[bobfog]

I'd say the RO90 in fine random orbit mode would be ideal. However, depending on what glue was used you may actually have more success with some very warm water on an abrasive pad if it's a water based glue.

The danger with spot sanding is whilst you might get rid of the glue, the pitch might not completely match the surrounding area. So I'd try he least aggressive method of hot water and scrubbing with a lightly abrasive pad first.

It's PVAC glue. I'm not sure if that's water based.

What do you mean with pitch? the angle in which I hold the grinder?

*patch

 

[SS Teach]

Welcome to FOG. The Ro sanders take some getting used to and they can be very aggressive. If by chance the sander is put into gear driven mode as opposed to random orbit mode you will have a new set of problems. The LS 130 is a linear sander as opposed to a random orbital and could leave sanding marks when you finish the floor. I would go with a light easy to control sander such as the ETS 125, RTS 400, or DTS 400. With all the sanding you have before you I would highly recommend a dust extractor. The last thing you want is a dust storm inside your house. You have a myriad of choices before you. I strongly suggest you check out YouTube videos dealing with Festool sanders before you buy. And lastly remember if you buy and it doesn't work for you it can be returned in 30 days. Good luck and enjoy.

 

[bobfog]

I'm not sure why people are saying the RO sanders are aggressive? Sure in forced rotation mode, but in random orbit mode they are as easy as any sander I've used provided you use the proper (but simple) technique of supporting the weight of the rear of the machine!

 

[jasperv]

Welcome to FOG. The Ro sanders take some getting used to and they can be very aggressive. If by chance the sander is put into gear driven mode as opposed to random orbit mode you will have a new set of problems. The LS 130 is a linear sander as opposed to a random orbital and could leave sanding marks when you finish the floor. I would go with a light easy to control sander such as the ETS 125, RTS 400, or DTS 400. With all the sanding you have before you I would highly recommend a dust extractor. The last thing you want is a dust storm inside your house. You have a myriad of choices before you. I strongly suggest you check out YouTube videos dealing with Festool sanders before you buy. And lastly remember if you buy and it doesn't work for you it can be returned in 30 days. Good luck and enjoy.

Thanks for the detailed information.

I've actually got a festool dust extractor. CTL Midi.

Allready have some festool tools (Kapex, ts55, of1010) that's why I want a festool sander so it fits the system.

Can you tell me the difference between a ets ec 150 and a normal ets 150?

 

[andrew.wickes]

It's their newer version. Small enhancements
Brushless motor. Extraction hose sensing. Watch Eric's video on The Poplar Shop on YouTube about the differences between them.

 

[leakyroof]

First, can you post a few pictures of how large a removal job are we talking about?
Maybe a light hand with a small scraper is the way to go if the glue blobs are tiny and few.
For your future work:  Stairs,- most people use and love the RO90 for this since it will strip and rough sand old finishes or paint, finish sand, and sand into corners all with one tool/sander. You can also alternate between a larger sander for the majority of the treads and risers, and use the smaller RO90 for the tight spots.
Doors, I prefer to use as large a sander as possible to cover more material/space and keep the door flat too. But, are these doors previously painted or finished?
Or are they bare wood that you are prepping for painting?
The reason I ask is that some abrasives are available only for some sanders if you're buying paper/discs from Festool.
Granat is getting pretty universal in its tool coverage, but is not as tough of an paper as Saphir for some applications. You don't have the option of Cristal or Brilliant 2 anymore since they've been discontinued, so for stripping old finishes, that really only leaves us Granat and Saphir from Festool unless you're buying aftermarket paper that fits a Festool sander.
The DTS400 and the RTS 400 and the RS2 are finer stroke/ smaller orbit sanders, so stripping is much slower than with a Rotex or even a ETS 150/5 / EC sander by comparision.
Hope this helps you out.

 

[Holmz]

It's their newer version. Small enhancements
Brushless motor. Extraction hose sensing. Watch Eric's video on The Poplar Shop on YouTube about the differences between them.

A lot more power, brushless, and based on other top of the line European sanders. It is not really a small enhancement, other than an enhancement to the name. It is a top of the line unit.

 

[s1301950]

i was following the same kind of reasoning and arrived at
1x ro90, tough material removal + tight corners
1x rts400, fine finish
1x ets125, fine finish + relatively large area, and some material removal

First, can you post a few pictures of how large a removal job are we talking about?
Maybe a light hand with a small scraper is the way to go if the glue blobs are tiny and few.
For your future work:  Stairs,- most people use and love the RO90 for this since it will strip and rough sand old finishes or paint, finish sand, and sand into corners all with one tool/sander. You can also alternate between a larger sander for the majority of the treads and risers, and use the smaller RO90 for the tight spots.
Doors, I prefer to use as large a sander as possible to cover more material/space and keep the door flat too. But, are these doors previously painted or finished?
Or are they bare wood that you are prepping for painting?
The reason I ask is that some abrasives are available only for some sanders if you're buying paper/discs from Festool.
Granat is getting pretty universal in its tool coverage, but is not as tough of an paper as Saphir for some applications. You don't have the option of Cristal or Brilliant 2 anymore since they've been discontinued, so for stripping old finishes, that really only leaves us Granat and Saphir from Festool unless you're buying aftermarket paper that fits a Festool sander.
The DTS400 and the RTS 400 and the RS2 are finer stroke/ smaller orbit sanders, so stripping is much slower than with a Rotex or even a ETS 150/5 / EC sander by comparision.
Hope this helps you out.

 

[s1301950]

actually i do have one question - granat and brilliant both go to 400. Is there any difference? is that why they're discontinuing the brilliant lines?

 

[leakyroof]

actually i do have one question - granat and brilliant both go to 400. Is there any difference? is that why they're discontinuing the brilliant lines?

  Although this is purely subjective/users opinion, some people felt that the Brilliant 2 gave a finer scratch pattern over Granat at those grit levels. however, since Brilliant 2 is now discontinued, it's a mute point... [embarassed]
Granat just outsold Brilliant 2 by leaps and bounds once it got popular. Having a multiple ability of abrasive strong points in one paper led many shops to start stocking purely Granat when their supplies got low, so we waved goodbye to Cristal and Brilliant 2.

 

[s1301950]

I'm really into fine finishing. I was watching the ro90 promo video and was wondering what pad was featured in 1:05?

is that supersoft? with sponge?
=65

 

[robertgreen94]

Based on info from the 2016 catalogue it's the 'very fine honeycomb sponge' 493884

Oh and btw I have the RO90 and love it.

 

[mkasdin]

I would probably just hand sand the spots that way you don't get overzealous.  Try using a cork sanding block. I got mine from Anderson Plywood in culver city, they are cheap $4. And the get in corners and cover just enough space. A spot here and there is not an issue to do by hand I would probably try either 80gr. Or 100gr. To start.  If hand sanding then go to 120 and a quick pass of 150 or 180 depending on what's on hand... If they glue has oozed out I would try to gently scrape it off with a razor or floor scraper for larger areas you might try to lightly moisten it first?

Staircase I would say a 125 ec 5mm if you want one sander? Sander selections are the hardest questions to answer depends on the job and future projects?

I have a ro150 its big and powerful. Like a V8 motor in a truck. I would probably get a 150 ets ec 3mmas a second sander and a ro-90 as a smaller finisher/corner tool.

The 150mm sandpaper would share between the two sanders so that's an easy one

Doors - if you just refinishing I wouldn't bother sanding necessarily, if your just refinishing. You just need to clean and scuff the surface for the paint to adhere.  Check out the 3M pads on their website. I buy them by the carton and then always have some for the ready.  I have the 7447 maroon pads and two others, I have their most aggressive pad which I buy at the box stores. If the paint is screwed,chipped peeling etc then sanding might be a good option. It's time consuming to sand doors.