Questions about 32mm system

[Josh2]

Hi,

I am planing my first cabinets with 32mm holes and have a couple of questions. I am interested both in the "correct" way to do things and how people sole the problem for themselves particularly with something like the woodpecker jig (which is what I have).

1. I know this doesn’t matter for shelf pins, hinges and drawers but what is the distance of the first hole from the bottom? The woodpecker jig has a 37mm offset but I saw both 37 and 42mm. I assume that is from the interior corner of the cabinet and not from the bottom of the side panel? But that would mean the placement of holes from the bottom has to consider the thickness of the stock so that the distance from the bottom is stock thickness plus 37mm. The woodpecker jig is not really designed for that with the pins for placement. Does this matter for anything?

2. How do you deal with drawer slides? The front hole is easy with 37mm setback from the finished edge. However, the backhole is more complicated. If I place them 37mm from the back (which the woodpecker jig is designed to do), the mounting hole in the back doesn't necessarily fit. Would the correct approach be to place the back holes at X times 32mm instead of 37mm from the back? I think slides have mounting holes every 32mm. With something like the woodpecker jig, do people simply drill the back hole manually or is there a different approach?

3. I sometimes see an additional column of holes in the middle of the side panel. What is the purpose of these holes?

 

[xedos]

1.  That depends on your system design.  It varies between them all and is too complex for this discussion.

2. Several ways, but easiest is to use another jig.

3. These can be for two things. One is the intermediate mounting holes on the drawer runners you asked about in #2.    The other is for a shallower shelf in the rear.

 

[Rick Herrick]

2. How do you deal with drawer slides? The front hole is easy with 37mm setback from the finished edge. However, the backhole is more complicated. If I place them 37mm from the back (which the woodpecker jig is designed to do), the mounting hole in the back doesn't necessarily fit. Would the correct approach be to place the back holes at X times 32mm instead of 37mm from the back? I think slides have mounting holes every 32mm. With something like the woodpecker jig, do people simply drill the back hole manually or is there a different approach?

I am new into this system as well.  I ended up using the LR32 system after playing with other options.  I have only made shelf pin holes to date but now working on a built-in that will have availability to have both shelves and slides.

This is what I have learned from this group and from YT. 

As you know, the front hole (shelf pin or hinge mounting) is 37mm from the front.  I use a stretcher on the back and a 6mm back panel that is routed into a groove.  So my back hole for shelves is 61 mm from the back of the cabinet.  This is 18mm for the stretcher, 6mm for the back panel, and then 37mm in, for the rear shelf pin hole.  This keeps things looking balanced.

If you want the option of slides, you would need another hole somewhere between the front and back shelf pin holes.  In most cases, that hole would ideally be 224mm from the front hole.  You should verify that with whatever slides you choose. 

I am working on this cabinet now and still trying to figure the best way to get that second slide hole (261mm from the front).  There have been lots of creative suggestions on this forum so I am still trying to work out the best way for me.

 

[Cheese]

This may be of some help.
http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/Festool/32mm/festool_32mmholes.html

[attachimg=1]

 

[afish]

Im not familiar with the woodpeckers but I made a post about how to easily make rows at any dimension back with the LR32 here

I have some other posts about the LR32 and jig setups for it that worked well for me if you do a search.  I know some may disagree but the LR32 is the best ALL AROUND system.  It has some hiccups, but they have work arounds. I haven't seen any other system that can match the speed, accuracy, flexibility, clean holes ability to drill hinge cups etc.  and if you read enough of my posts you will know im not a total festool addict. There are however a few tools that are standouts in the line and the LR32 is one of them. The routers themselves however are not.   

 

[Rick Herrick]

Im not familiar with the woodpeckers but I made a post about how to easily make rows at any dimension back with the LR32 here

Thanks for the link.  I know there have been several discussions on options but I hadn't done the research yet.  I was just playing around yesterday getting re-familiar with the LR32.  I know its expensive but I do really like the system.

 

[sancho57]

Cheese pretty much laid it out for you. Balanced vs unbalanced.

You want a balanced panel for the most part.

Mostly put yer pin holes in the middle of the panel .

You dont need to put pin holes the entire length of the sides.

main thing you want is the side to be divisable by 32mm. the holes are 32mm on center with a 37mm set back

 

[cperren]

I'm probably missing something but how do you inset drawers that hide the slides with a 37mm setback. (i.e. slide is set back 2mm from the front). Often I've added the thickness of the front to 37mm so that the slides are hidden from the front .. I'm probably not doing something correct since 37mm seems to be the standard. Any wisdom of advise?  Thanks 

 

[sancho57]

Mounting holes in the slides accomindate the 37 mm set back or use under mount slides

 

[cperren]

[member=10147]jobsworth[/member] - The 37mm setback definitely works with overlay drawers ..  Does it work with inset drawers?  I agree both works with undermount slides. Below image shows the KV slide instructions with the mounting holes at 35mm 

 

[xedos]

Inset is not really in the European vernacular.

That said, 37mm can work with 3/4" inset drawers on many slides.

 

[cperren]

[member=67935]xedos[/member] - Thanks. Based the KV slide spec, it appears that the first 5mm insert hole set the slides only 2mm back from the front.. For inset drawers, I like to hide the slide using the front of the drawers therefore the set back has to be at least the thickness of the fronts .. Maybe that's not good practice.

Thanks
Chris

 

[Stan Tillinghast]

Quick calculation shows that 224 mm is 7 x 32, 256 mm is 8 x 32.
Thanks, Cheese! I’m going to be unbalanced—well, even more unbalanced—from now on!

 

[MaineShop]

To respond to Chris, I do a lot of inset drawers on face frame cabinets, and I use the 32mm system. The drawer front is the same thickness as the face frame so the 37mm set back still works. I drill the holes in the sheet good parts and when the face frames go on that adds the thickness that the drawer front matches. I guess you would need to account if you did an inset drawer on a frameless cabinet but I have never come across that.

 

[cperren]

@MaineShop that make perfect sense.  Does the face frame cover the slides?  I bet this it looks nice. Love to see Any pictures. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Cheese]

Thanks, Cheese! I’m going to be unbalanced—well, even more unbalanced—from now on!

I appreciate the thank you Stan, unbalanced it is, however an even larger thank you to this forum is posting a photo of your project.  [big grin]

 

[Stan Tillinghast]

And so I shall...but perhaps not the first “test cabinet”.  [wink]