Replacement Garage Side Door

[bobtskutter]

Hello FOG.  I needed to build a new side door for the garage.  The old one had gone rotten and was falling apart, guess that's what happens if you use an eggbox door externally.
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I checked through my collection of english oak and tropical hardwoods, but none seemed to be suitable, so I looked elsewhere.
I had a large pile of old garden decking that needed using up, so I used that.
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The material was cleaned up with the sander (Rotex125) and 80grit paper.  I glued the pieces together for the rails and stiles then patched up the old bolt holes and other damage.  I've got quite good at patching up damage to timber in this project - more to follow!  I glued 3 lengths of 2x4 to make a board 12inch wide, then cut it down to 2 length both 6inch wide using the TS75 and FS3000.  The saw just laughed at the timber, the new CT36 dust extractor did a great job with the saw dust.
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More to follow...

 

[bobtskutter]

I cut the mortise slots using a 1/2" worktop cutter and two parallel guides on the router (OF1400).  I used masking tape to cover all the adjustments knobs that I must not adjust one I'd set the router up.  I have a habit of accidentally moving the parallel fence thinking it's the depth adjustment.  I cut the mortises then routed out grooves to take the infill panels, but noticed I cut the groove on the wrong edge of the stiles. More patching up!
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I used the TSO parallel guides to cut saw kerfs to mark the tenons on the rails, and then used my home made CMS router table insert to cut the tenons.  I left a small section at the end of the rails to rest the router on whilst I moved it around.  But, what the????  I managed to run the router cutter too close to the saw kerfs, which needed more patch up.  Told you I said I was getting good at patching up damaged timber!  CA glue to the rescue.  The rails were trimmed down with a hand saw to make the tenons. I cut down the tenons so I could drive wedges into them to anchor them in place (and forgot to take any pictures).
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More to follow...

 

[bobtskutter]

The panel was made up with decking boards glued together.  I used a router sled to make something that looked like a raised panel and then did a dry fit.  It all came together pretty well - if you ignore all the patching up that was required.  I used PU glue to glue the tenons into the mortises, then hammered wedges in to expand the tenons (did I mention they're through tenons?) and then use dominos to pin the tenon into the stile.  Belt and braces!   (The large dowel in the photo is a patch to cover a bolt hole).
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I made the door step out of a pine railway sleeper someone gave me.  I attached router sled style guides to the sleeper using a laser level and assembly squares to get them co-planer.  I used a sled with the track saw to cut saw kerfs into the sleeper and then a hand held power plane to remove the waste.  I figured this was a faster way to get a flat surface than feeding the sleeper through the thicknesser (which I had to do to get two flat surfaces).  The sleeper was made square using the tracksaw with advanced dust collection modifications.  The final shape of the doorstep was cut using the router and table saw.  I put domino mortises in the sleeper to attach the door frame to.
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[bobtskutter]

For some unknown reason I stopped taking pictures at this point!  Sorry.
I assembled the frame using more 2x4 material and dominos to hold it together.  The router was used to cut the recess for the hinges and a deep slot for the door lock. Fitting the assembled frame wasn't as easy as I though it would be, it was a very tight fit (even after I'd used the rotex and 40grit paper to "resize" the frame).  Finished, and it opens and closes.
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Regards
Bob

 

[Sparktrician]

There was a movie back in the '70s called "Behind The Green Door" starring Marilyn Chambers.  I'll leave it at that...  [big grin]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

That's a mighty impressive "replacement" from the old slab door.

I have two questions. What motivated the switch of the hinge side?
Also, the handle location? From what I have seen, door handles are higher in the UK than here in the US?
But it appears to be different from the original too.

 

[bobtskutter]

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] moving the hinges to the opposite side was to encourage the wind to blow the door closed instead of open.  The prevailing wind in my back garden blows from the right hand side of the door to the left hand side and used to rip the door out of your hand if you weren't holding it tightly.  There's also a double thickness of brickwork on the right hand side of the door opening, and a single thickness on the left hand side.  I also thought if the heavy door did get blown by the wind it was less likely to pull the frame out if it had more brickwork holding it in place.

The handle is higher up than the old door because I was worried about removing too much material between the tenons on the middle rail.  I should probably have planned the build the little better and located the middle rail so fitting the lock wouldn't end up cutting out the tenons.  But I made both panels pretty much the same size, because the decking boards had were all the same length, so that put the middle rail in the middle of the door.

Regards
Bob

 

[Crazyraceguy]

That definitely makes sense, thanks.

This is not the first time I have noticed the doorknob up so high though. I thought it may have had something to do with the rules/laws etc. I know you guys do some things very differently than what is common here, windows and doors especially.