Review of Woodpeckers Parallel Guide System

fritter63

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Just wanted to post a quick review of the Woodpeckers PGS (not sure it matters, since it was a one time tool - it's not like you can go out and buy it).

But my hopes are that Woodpeckers can use the feedback to improve the next version (if there ever is one).

I have used the system twice now, both times for sizing 20 mm MDF sheets for making a vacuum table for my CNC machine. So these are about 4x4.

Overall, I'm happier with the system than with the Festool Parallel guides. They are definitely easier to move around and get positioned on the stock, and I like that they fit into a sustainer.

Setup time: As I've only done it twice, I think it took me about 15 minutes to assemble and calibrate the guides. Definitely slower than the festool guides.

Use: Very easy, once they are setup, I felt much more comfortable positioning them quickly on the stock. I can just pull the rail and be assured that the stops are tight up against the stock. I never got this feeling from the Festool system.

Cons:

- Calibration marks. I have the metric system. The two arrows printed the top of the rail are difficult to use. The only way to be sure is to flip the stop over on top of the arrow, and carefully check to see that you are positioned at the point. This is not easy to do. I found it helpful to use a flashlight to make the triangle reflect against the flip stop, and treat it as a mirror image test. Still, it's not easy, you have to keep moving it back and forth (like a vision test) to see which is "better" for alignment.

- Setting the stops. Once again, for the same reason as the calibration marks, it is difficult to set the stops at the precise measurement you want. You have to sight down the stop, get the angle just right, and then decide just WHERE on the mark you it positioned. The marks are actually wide enough that you be off from one to the other if not careful.

- Measuring marks. There are two sets of marks on the guides, one on top, and one on the side. Unfortunately, the side marks stop after 280 mm. I think this was a mistake. It is MUCH easier to align with the side marks than on the top marks, so the sides should have been calibrated for the entire length.

I think it would have been better if Woodpeckers had provided some sort of hairline calibration, similar to their table saw systems, for aligning the marks. This would have worked for both initial calibration and subsequent cut setups.
 

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A couple notes that might help.

Don't worry about the location for the front stop when calibrating. Get it in the rough area and spend your time getting the back one right. You can zero the back stop on the side or the top with the arrows it doesn't matter. Yup...splittin' lines on the scales.

The side scale is used only when using the narrow stock ripping guides. The top scale is for all other cuts using just the rear flip stop after removing the calibration/narrow stock rods.

Setup is pretty easy, but calibration does add to the time required. You could remember, mark, or write down the location needed for zero calibration of the head on next setup. Adding stops to the system would make it even easier since all you have to do is butt the rail (
 
One more thing that might cut that 15 minute setup time down is leaving the PGS together as much as possible to save setup/tear down time and keep parts from getting dropped/lost over time. Since I got the Systainer with the original defective rail mounts I had to rebuild the foam to work so that the PGS could be left as intact as possible. Plus I switched the screws over to hex heads for ease of use.

woodpeckers-parallel-guide-systainer-mod


 
Just got my Metric PGS in a Sustainer (what else?) and used it for a couple of days. Quite happy with repeated cuts. I find the rod for shallow cut most of the time in the way. Wish they had thought of a two-stage distance setting. One day I'll loose the nut on of the rods, probably.
Calibration was supposed to be a no-brainer, but I preferred to do it it the old fashioned way. I'm not to happy with the Phillips screws, why not use hex heads all the way.
However, though not cheap they deliver.
 
I have this system, seems to work well for regular sized stock but has not made cutting narrow stock any easier in my opinion.
 
the pictures and comments in the precedng posts are very helpful. They she light on issues to consider regardless what approach to Parallel  Guiding is being considered.
 
Why do you have two stops for each side. I understand that one needs to be set properly so you can calibrate the whole thing, but why do you have a predefined location for the other stop? I am confused.
 
I have the TSO parallel guides and I am happy with it.

But has anyone used the Kreg Parallel guide system?  And will it mount on the Festool rails?  The tape measure system seems quite handy for larger pieces; not so much for narrow cuts though.  Just $99.00, so cheap enough.

ACS430-03-copy-600x400.jpg
 
VirTERM said:
Why do you have two stops for each side. I understand that one needs to be set properly so you can calibrate the whole thing, but why do you have a predefined location for the other stop? I am confused.
Still looking for clarification
 
VirTERM said:
VirTERM said:
Why do you have two stops for each side. I understand that one needs to be set properly so you can calibrate the whole thing, but why do you have a predefined location for the other stop? I am confused.
Still looking for clarification

Two points: You requested clarification on a post that was over 6 years old; some of the people involved in those posts aren't around the FOG any more.

Also, you didn't say which system you were asking about, the TSO or Woodpecker's system.

Some or most of these systems have been updated since then.  I would check and see what the current configuration is for the system you're interested in, and post specifically about that system if you're looking for additional clarification.
 
VirTERM said:
Why do you have two stops for each side. I understand that one needs to be set properly so you can calibrate the whole thing, but why do you have a predefined location for the other stop? I am confused.
My post from above should answer your question.

Peter_C said:
Don't worry about the location for the front stop when calibrating. Get it in the rough area and spend your time getting the back one right. You can zero the back stop on the side or the top with the arrows it doesn't matter. Yup...splittin' lines on the scales.

The side scale is used only when using the narrow stock ripping guides. The top scale is for all other cuts using just the rear flip stop after removing the calibration/narrow stock rods.
Edit: The metal rod butts up against the rear stop. The purpose of the front stop is to hold the rod in place for rigidity. FWIW there is nothing wrong with using lots of stops on each leg. I use a Woodpeckers extrusion for the fence on my MFT/3 table and having multiple stops is a huge benefit.
 
Peter_C said:
VirTERM said:
Why do you have two stops for each side. I understand that one needs to be set properly so you can calibrate the whole thing, but why do you have a predefined location for the other stop? I am confused.
My post from above should answer your question.

Peter_C said:
Don't worry about the location for the front stop when calibrating. Get it in the rough area and spend your time getting the back one right. You can zero the back stop on the side or the top with the arrows it doesn't matter. Yup...splittin' lines on the scales.

The side scale is used only when using the narrow stock ripping guides. The top scale is for all other cuts using just the rear flip stop after removing the calibration/narrow stock rods.
Edit: The metal rod butts up against the rear stop. The purpose of the front stop is to hold the rod in place for rigidity. FWIW there is nothing wrong with using lots of stops on each leg. I use a Woodpeckers extrusion for the fence on my MFT/3 table and having multiple stops is a huge benefit.

Thank you and yes, you are correct, I should say that I am interested in Woodpeckers set...
So, basically, there is no real purpose behind marking for a front stop... having it there helps with rigidity but there is no need to "park" it at any particular spot.
 
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